Anybody ever see one of these winch motors?

[Guest]

I have a 2003 deck windlass from France on a 58ft Catana catamaran. The winch maker is out of business. The motor has burned up and I'm trying to figure the motor brand so I can buy a new one. Does anyone recognize this motor? Maybe Bosh, or ?

 

 

 

 

 

By the way this is the chain tangle left over from the winch paying out all 300ft of 13mm chain.

 

 

Thanks

 

Scott

[Guest]

Certainly doesn't look like a CIMA, which is the most commonly used by most theses days.

 

What brand is the winch?

 

No worries about a stuck anchor, you have a while just unlacing the chain. Knot too sure you should post photos like that though. Greenies hate sh*t like that.

[smithy09 50]

Certainly doesn't look like a CIMA, which is the most commonly used by most theses days.

 

What brand is the winch?

 

No worries about a stuck anchor, you have a while just unlacing the chain. Knot too sure you should post photos like that though. Greenies hate sh*t like that.

 

Just a wild stab in the dark.. Baldor? American DC motors/gearboxes. Good stuff.

[smithy09 50]

Oh yeah. Catana 58.. Very very nice from all I have seen of Catanas..

[rigger 47]

You could go to a motor rewind company, might be another option.

My father used to get pump and vac motors rewound all the time, for him it was cheaper than buying new motors. Sorry cannot remember the company he used.

[wheels 543]

Sorry I am not assuming you are a novice, but just in case, are You sure the windings are burn't up? Check the Brushes first of all. Windings will be second possible.

Any motor rewind company should be able to help. But expect it to cost maybe $400 to rewind. Prices will vary, so shop around.

Once it has been fixed, you may be best to look at why a cook up has occured. Frying the windings usually means two things. Cables are not heavy enough to supply the current required. Winch was way overloaded.

[Guest]

Thanks for the advice. The armature is burnt so it can't be fixed they tell me. Funny the French Pacific rewinder looked at the motor, but would not acctually touch it and said "It's broke, Buy new."

 

By the way the winch and motor are from Leroy Somer that are no longer made. They were on Catana and Beneteau for a while. I just ordered a 24v 6.8hp motor that I'll try and replace the LS motor with. Once I get it done I'll post some photos.

 

Thanks

 

Scott

[wheels 543]

Sorry Scott, I didn't take notice who you were till now. You do have a clue.

It's a very nicely made looking motor. I am thinking, are the Fields the typ that they are a winding around a block of iron plates that can be unscrewed and removed?? It could be worth removing them and sending them here to NZ and having them rewound. It should be easy enough to get a rewinder to get that done.

You biggest issue with another motor will be the shaft type. If it has a gear screw cut into the shaft. If it is just a bare shaft and the worm screw is seperate, then no problem for a fella like yourself. But then, motor, time to adapt, is it worth the cost and hassle, or is it cheaper to get KM to send you a completely new winch up to you??

[smithy09 50]

Nice Website Scott. I would like to send most of our electrical techs to you for a course on how to wire panels, as they have no idea.. Very interesting flicking through it. Nice life you have mapped out there. Well done!

Pic of one of our panels from a diving bell attached. It's on the "to do" list whenever they stop diving for a few days (never).. The way the Singaporians wire is "How much can we cram into this box".. Painful to work on!

[Mothership 6]

Nice Website Scott. I would like to send most of our electrical techs to you for a course on how to wire panels, as they have no idea.. Very interesting flicking through it. Nice life you have mapped out there. Well done!

Pic of one of our panels from a diving bell attached. It's on the "to do" list whenever they stop diving for a few days (never).. The way the Singaporians wire is "How much can we cram into this box".. Painful to work on!

 

Colour coding would be a step in the right direction, if they're going to play sardines.

[wheels 543]

Yeup i agree with either colour coding or lableing. I also try to lay out the wires so they can be traced through easily, especially if you do have to work with same colour or several of same colour.

The Board before this was a Spagalini junktion. A complete mess and a wire had sorted and smoked up the board nearly causing a fire. It is so important to ensure cables can not move against one another.

It is one of the Priority jobs on my to do list to replace the panel with a more modern on and I will be using multicore cables for as many of the minor runs as I can. On cable goes to Engine room, one goes to Mast step, one goes to Forward lighting and so on. That way I can easily identify what multicore, what colour code and what purpose.

When I have to use same coloured wires, I lable each side of bulkheads, so as you can follow a wire on through a boat.

All my connections below waterline, like Bilge pumps for instance, are made within small Ip66 polastic boxes and sealed. So that if a bilge floods, the pump will run with no worries and excess water will ruin over to the next bilge section and so on. I have five Bilge sections with a pump in each and an indicator at the Switch board to tell you when a pump is running and a high water alarm if the bilge area gets to a certain level.