Water Filters (inline)

[eruptn 95]

Dark flakes started to appear in the sink over the weekend, arriving from the water supply. Further investigation has found a WF1250 water filter inline. I have removed this an back flushed etc an lots of crap came out. This generates two questions;

1) What is the recommended/normal installation spec for a water supply

2) What is the replacement part for a WF1250

 

Thanks

[Island Time 1,230]

Sounds like it was well past its use by date, and the element has failed. I'd go to Bunnings and buy a standard inline unit. 5 micron is pretty standard, but I try to get the 0.5 micron ones- they can remove giardia (sp?) cysts.  Change it every year.

[ScottiE 174]

Do those standard in line carbon filters work to feed a manual plunger faucet?

[Island Time 1,230]

I can't see why not, they are a sealed unit, so water should be able to be sucked through them as well as pushed through like a pressure install.

[wheels 543]

Southernman is our resident Waterfilter expert. Hopefully he will see this and jump in. But....
WF1250 what exactly? A brand name would be helpful. As said already, they don't last forever.  But....Never backflush standard filters. If contamination has come through, then the filter medium has failed. Back flushing will result in further destruction of the Filter and more stuff coming through.
Replacement schedule is also dependent on how dirty the water is in the first place. Although you probably want a 12 month replacement cycle as minimum anyway. 
If you use water from streams and mixed sources you cannot be certain about, you are best to have a series of filters. A simple mesh type on for course particles and that filter can be removed and cleaned. Then a Filter like a cheap Paper type for fine particulates removal, Then you go to the very fine filters that will remove Virus, Chemicals and the likes.
 

[eruptn 95]

The label is in poor condition, I think it is a Whale product as they have WF part numbers.

I can not find any specifications, so are unclear if it was a sediment and or bacterial filter?

There is a WF1320 that 'improves' taste but is not a bacterial filter and a WF3000 that appear in searches. There are also filters with 'carbon' that are reported to reduce algae toxins.

[southernman 73]

Two things, don't get ripped by buying filters from Bunnings.  PM me if you want a good deal and I'll sort you out.  

 

Secondly Crypto according to the DWS of NZ, 0.1 Micron will remove Crypto so if you want to ensure this is gone would recommend this rather than 0.5, make sure it's an absolute cartridge rather than what is usually sold.  You will find these quite expensive.  

 

The smaller the micron the more the filter will block.  It's a good idea to use two filters.  One for large particles and takes most of the load i.e. 5 or 10 micron followed by a smaller size i.e. 0.1 or similar.  If you have a taste or odour issue a pleated or polyspun filter won't remove taste/odour rather use a carbon filter.  

 

Filters don't really like drying out and or no movement through them, suggest you change them at least once a year.  You will only really know if they are buggered if you have a DP (pressure differential) gauge on them, anything greater than 0.5 bar means they are stuffed.  A visual check can also work i.e. is their colour or solids on the outlet side of filter if so chuck them.  Cleaning filters unless they are high quality and designed for it is shooting yourself in the foot.  

 

Filters come in some basic sizes: 5", 10" and 20" length.  Just measure the length and width then we should be able to get you sorted.