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Winch installation


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I couldn't attach an image to a PM to KM looking for a new anchor winch for my yacht.

The tan patch is where the deck was replaced after removing the rotten Samson post and capstan winch.

A picture tells a thousand words, and i'm too impatient to type for that long.

As I said in pm, I need the chain/warp to pass the forestay fitting to port and onto winch.

Comments about how far back down the deck the forestay is aren't required. It's still a 5 metre J measurement.

As agreed with KM all/most vertical winches are setup for clockwise retrieval so the chain is offset to the starboard side of winch.

Also the only horizontal shaft units I've seen also have the chain gypsy on the starboard side.

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Slacko on my boat, I have a double bow lead and the centre plate between the two is the attachment point for the forestay. Would that not be easier? Or am I not understanding your question? Or are you even asking a question?

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That may be a solution wheels, and ultimately the best one probably, but then I'm up for new bow anchor fitting and cost/time to mount, new forestay, furler, pulpit, longer spinnaker pole, and headsails. On top of the winch purchase.

:shock:

That is a long and expensive road, and at the moment I'm still mildly optimistic of getting a splash by Christmas. :D

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Why new forestay, furler, pulpit, longer spinnaker pole, and headsails? The attachment point would be no different to what you have now if the bowsprit is made right. It will simply be side by side is all.

Damn I wish I was in Auckland. I could make the thing for you. I just can't realistically do it here at the mo.

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I believe the answer is to pass the forestay to stbd and use the stbd spare man as your primary anchor fairlead. I reckon the extra few inches clearance you gain is all to the good as far as the point of the anchor in towards the hull, and you get to use a commonly available winch, which means more choice selecting it.

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To answer KM and Wheels the forestay attachment is beside the fwd end of the plank on deck, about a metre back from the bow.

John B, you may have the simplest solution there. :D

That starboard spareman roller is not perpendicular to the bow though. Would this be a problem? The rode will ride across to the outside under load, which will probably cause chafe on rope (not that I use any at present). I need to get some rope out and look at where it will sit.

I could then leave the anchor on, and use the central one for mooring purposes.

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Yes I see what you're saying.. on reflection you could maybe just carry on with the centralised fairlead but I still think you could go the stbd feed even if the windlass had to go slightly off centre. You may need a bit of sacrificial blocking to protect the forestay fitting as the chain jumps going out/in.

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Is it possible to mount a winch 1/2 on and 1/2 off the porthand side of the patch on the deck? Or even further to port maybe? Even to Stb?

 

If you can get to Stb it does open up the auto rope to chain option, which means a lot less weight up the pointy end.

 

There is nothing that stops a winch working if it's offset a bit, as long as the underdeck locker, beams, headroom and etc allows it.

 

Just running through possible options here.

 

As it stands now you have only 1 or 2 options if you go vertical and they are all 'all chain' only so if you want rode length you are talking potentially big weight. 9mm chain is 1.9kg/mt and 10mm is 2.3kg/mt.

 

The other option is a horizontal, which can be fitted with a gypsy on the port side very easily. But then you have a lot bigger lump on your foredeck. If you want auto rope to chain on a horizontal set-up for Port, it does narrow the option back into the 'knot many' area again.

 

Also most all manufacturers are bringing out new models only set-up to work clockwise and on the orientated for the Stb side.

 

Expanding a tad on Johns theme. If the chain was running 'bloody close' to the forestay fitting, Johns block idea could be easily and nicely done using a bit of Umpy (UHMWPE). Hard wearing and slippery as.

 

Or of course there is a 'directional roller' that could be dropped in to redirect the rode a bit. That is becoming more common as boat designers work out a nice interior and then try fit a boat around the outside of it :?

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I've now stood on the bow with some rope with a hammer tied to one end to give me an idea of the lead.

I'm going to offset to stb to open up the option of rope/chain.

It may need a block to lead it slightly, but that can be done after if required.

It does mean I now have that board on deck that is redundant.

I'll send up a link of the chain KM, to get it positively identified if that is OK.

I grabbed a Maxwell catalogue today, but haven't had a look yet.

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Yeah it was a Fuller 20 oz fibreglass handle claw hammer.

Probably put about 50 metres of chain off it.

Does KM have holding power specs for that?

I tied it on with a bowline too , no swivel. :D

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The holding and setting characteristics of the Eastwing 26oz framing hammers far far exceed all others. I would seriously recommend you stay away from fibreglass shafted handles unless you are a full on racer.

 

RC10 (vertical) or HRC10 (horizontal) are the 2 Maxwells you want to be looking at unless you go to a 8mm chain. Those 2 use 10mm chain to 16mm warp.

 

But we (Mr Slacko and I) suspect we might find a 9mm chain on sussing of existing gear so we'll see which way on completion of said sussing.

 

There are quite a few winch options now, knot just Maxwell, if you can move it to Stb a bit. Before that you had 2 or 3 and all were all chain. 100mts of 10mm weights 230kg or in yachting terms 'Ouch!'.

 

Mind you Maxwell do seem to have a nice edge at the moment with the new (ish) RC range. Sharp pricing, work bloody well, some made from real SS and knot made in the east like many....... Err hang on ... after the Supershitty activates can you call Albany, Aucklands North East????

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