Addem 94 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 We have several carbon rub/deck protection. Pads where the top layer is peeling off. Also our carbon spin pole is scratched and dinged. What's the best product to recoat them with? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raz88 96 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 For situations where it's an actual repair rather than just a clear coat on top, nz fiberglass (in st helliers but they sell online as well) sell an epoxy resin with a uv inhibitor in it which dries nice and clear and isn't supposed to yellow in the sun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ballystick 72 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I've got some expensive stuff from Steve's Marine, you can use if you just want to touch up, Andy K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addem 94 Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Cheers Andy. It is just a touch up. I'll organize to get some via email. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Epoxy, even with UV inhibitor, will still yellow slightly in time. And the UV inhibitor is not clear and tends to darken the clear epoxy. It also does not wear well. All epoxies surface scratch easily and then it loses it's clarity. So it is always best to use it as an under coating to get a depth of build and then coat with a UV proof urathane top coating to give a scratch, ding and yellowing resistant top coat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addem 94 Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Wheels are you suggesting something like a clear coat they use on cars? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 No those coats are usually just laquer and don't last either. You need a good quality outside use marine clear coat. UV protectors are dark and will cause all clears to darken. Hence why getting a totally clear Outside top coat is impossible. Or the clearer it is, the less time it will last. So that is why you use total clears under neath to build depth, which is often just Epoxy anyway and then a UV protected clear( which is slightly dark) for final protection.There is a clear laquer that was made for one of the top name Car makers, like Masarati or Jag or someone. But it is about $500/ltr and is not available to the Public, only them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addem 94 Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can find. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Just re reading my post. I don't feel I worded a part very well. I should have said that the UV additive is dark and thus clear coats with UV proofing in them tend to be darker than no stabilized pure clear coatings. The usual rule of thumb is that the clearer the coating, the less life it will have in direct sunlight. So if you want deep and clear glossy finish to show off the bling of Carbon or Timber bright work, you need to keep it covered when not on display. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battleship 100 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 We just used awlwood on our carbon bits. Lasts for 10 years on timber if done properly and is still like new after 4 so far. Pretty durable as well with a nice gloss. Needs a few coats though and isn't cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addem 94 Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 I'm not sure the darkening of the colour is an issue for carbon as it is for timber, since it is black. More one of visibility. I'll have a look at the awl wood too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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