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got the tape , the price for 30 mtrs nearly $300 unbelievable this country need a shakeup  ,so we may have another boat in the shed who they will gladly share the tape and cost , very pi-s-d off  but its going to happen soon as weather clears  

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got the tape , the price for 30 mtrs nearly $300 unbelievable this country need a shakeup  ,so we may have another boat in the shed who they will gladly share the tape and cost , very pi-s-d off  but its going to happen soon as weather clears  

Why use tape? You can just use the quilosa as above, no tape required, under $100 for a whole boat....

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Yes the art of competition has gone out of the window , this country need a mass recession to straighten up most retailers , I brought some fencing of a mate who works at a local timber place , he says they have 58 percent mark up on timber , criminal, lets no get started , , , ,,, so yes I will contact you when we are done We won't be waisting the stuff

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.....The thickness of the tape is important.

If you have long windows the expansion and contraction is quite high.

It is best to create a "frit" with silicone based paint (Like exhaust paint) if the bond is exposed  through the acrylic / poly-carbonate . Have a look at most modern cars , fixed windows and you will get the idea. This stops UV exposure on the tape / sealant interface.

Mask all except the frit area, lightly abraid with 180, and spray.

Goop by itself can work on fiberglass boats  and smaller windows but is not a good idea on other materials and definitely not steel boats. 

After sticking the windows in use a high modulus silicone and seal both inside and out. (This is why you use a silicone paint)  Mask up all surfaces ...its quicker and neater in the long run because you can screed to the tape.

(Clean prior to sticking tape with acetone or similar and dont touch the surface afterwards..even a finger print can badly affect the bond)

Dont be tempted to put holes and fasteners in...if the job is done right it wont need them and they will only cause premature fails...

I have done many windows and written a couple of how too articles...so far nobody has given me grief.

Last lot of genuine 3M VHB I bought was $180 Aus. If you want the Aus price then buy it from Aus...most places dont care that much and will sell it to you. You may find it cheaper elsewhere on the net.

A lot of our marine gear is double the price or more of the original companies home country in Aus...we are in the same situation as NZ in that respect so the strange and irrelevant rant about penal colonies wont help you buy cheaper...  

 

Getting stuff from the states is a different story, so much so, that you can employ the services of a buying and repackaging agent which will get you around inflated "home town monopoly's" on imported goods sold by exclusive agents. 

There are other brands that are the same stuff and a third of the price but you need to do your own research.

 

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Hi cj..I will try and find a link..

One was published in the American   "metal boat building society magazine" ..

I am no longer a member because they wanted to charge me to access my own intellectual property.

 

Another....Metal boat building. org the free website that a few of us ran has now folded...

I am in Townsville at the moment working on a boat but when I get back home I will try and find the original pdf,s..as well..

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