Jump to content

Teak Oil V Teak Sealer


Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a set of hand rails on the cabin top, I take it they are teak or similar.

 

It has been suggested I should oil them to give them some protection and make them look more loved, than the curent faded look.

 

Having a read up on oils it appears the use of a sealer is more prefered .... any views out there ?

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Deks Olje or Sikens. Deks is an Oil of which you have a No1 and No3. For outside, you start with the 1 and keeps applying till the teak takes no more. Then you finish with No2.
Sikens is more a coating than an oil. Also best used the same way for outside use, by applying the base and then the top.
Both offer the best protection anything is going to give you outside. Deks will last 6 months, then wash and recoat. No sanding. Sikens will give much longer. The more coats, the better protection. You should get two years, then wash and recoat, no saning.
Any forms of clear Varnishes will look great, but require constant recoating and that means sanding down and starting again. 2 pot clear will give you 2 yrs.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Deks Olje lucky to get six months in Auckland -no matter how many coats, Sikkens like a stain mixed with varnish -ok if you dont like the colour of your wood.

Alwood seems to be lasting the best -at a price.

I still favour two coats of West epoxy followed by seven coats of Epifanes varnish, three years in Auckland before touch up!!.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The main thing I like about Deks Olje (& presumable other similar products) is that it doesn't matter if you leave it too long without maintenance. You can just put more on any time you feel like it -- or not: no risk of having to sand it all back. And application is very easy -- I use an old rag.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The main thing I like about Deks Olje (& presumable other similar products) is that it doesn't matter if you leave it too long without maintenance. You can just put more on any time you feel like it -- or not: no risk of having to sand it all back. And application is very easy -- I use an old rag.

Correct and the same applies for the Sikens. I have tried everything you can think of and have come back to these two products, of which the Sikens is my main choice. Although the Sikens doesn't look as nice as the Deks, but lasts longer.

I tried the Epoxy and two pot clear, but for the hard work and cost, getting 3 yrs is just too short. And you only need a chip early on and it is a major repair job and damn expensive. Single pot clears need a yearly coat as well.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Teak oil or brywax is much the same I have brought both they are kind of a varnish , need time to dry , befor recoating if you use housing oil you will be doing it again soon , I binned the timber rails and had them made in stainless and there lies the end of the subject most of the housing oils can’t handle the weather , sail , and most of all teak hates foreign oils most of the time they go black after oiled in time

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...