Whiting 34 0 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 I had to take the old woodwork out to remove the engine, as the boat is close to 35 years old the only way was to cut it out and discard I am now planning to build a new galley around the engine and saildrive, should I be considering any special type of wood for the framework? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Kahikatea . Also known as white pine. It is strong and most importantly, stable (does not warp or twist) and easy to work with. Also, not toxic. Something many do not consider when wood working. There are some exotic timbers out there that are very poisonous and even at best, some can cause allergic reactions, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Sheet foam as a 'drop in' unit. Easy and quick to work with and paints up great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Priscilla II 375 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Depends entirely on what sort of style and finish you are looking for and what level of skills you have to construct. Painted,sprayed,varnished or a mixture. Foam, ply, solid timber, veneer or laminate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiting 34 0 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi to all that took time to reply and thanks for the input......and I thought a trip to Bunnings or Mitre 10 would have covered the timber requirements. I should have mentioned I have little woodworking experience so its a step by step learning curve. In regards to the construction of the frame is epoxy glue recommended along with stainless steel screws? Not sure where the foam suggestion would fit into the construction...... I will take some images this weekend and post. Thanks for all your help and suggestions so far. Cheers Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fish 0 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 If you are talking Bunnings or M10, then the FSC range of profiled wood is handy. i.e. short lengths of various profiles, 12 mm square, 18 mm square etc. Included would be all of your standard skirting and door jam type of stuff. However its a very soft pine type of wood. Easy to put together and work with, but not necessarily ideal for a long life on a boat. If you use that I would recommend thorough painting or sealing with a suitable product. If I were doing it I would also use a light ply for the panels etc, and stiffen everything up by joining and sealing with epoxy, including tieing back to the hull / existing structure. I'm thinking a 4 mm ply, and in an untreated marine ply like gaboon or maranti (which you wont get from Bunnings). My understanding is the treated stuff doesn't' work well with the epoxies (but I could be wrong). There are a few ply places like 'Ply Man' that you should be able to get suitable ply from. note there are different grades of ply that related to the tidiness of the face, like knots and defects etc. If you want, you could get some nice good ply and finish the work with a good wood grain finish, maybe varnish it. If you get the right ply supply places a range of finishes are available in a colour and texture to suit, such as white oak, ash, jarra, mahogany etc depending in the existing finish of your boat. http://www.plyman.co.nz/product-category/natural-veneer-panels/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battleship 100 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 I always use these Guys, http://hurfordwholesale.co.nz/timber-species they have some lovely western red cedar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 12 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Definitely two pot glue and screws. You do not want a squeak somewhere in the cabinetry all night long when there's a slight roll coming into the bay. Trust me on this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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