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Hot water tank (calorifier) removal


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#11 Neil

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 09:49 AM

New tank on order so hopefully all put back soon.

 

Neil, you will lose some coolant. Unavoidable. It will drop to the heat exchanger level. No problem, except the mess. Just top it up when refitting. Above the coolant tube on the exhaust riser is a brass plug. Open that when refilling to remove the airlock, or better yet take it out and put it where the barb to the header tank hose is - swap them around to avoid airlocks in future.

IT, when I come to plumb back in what should I use to top up the engine coolant? I was thinking just plain old de-mineralised water same as I'd top a battery up? Or is there something else I need such as a corrosion inhibitor? Plenty of coolant still in there so only a top up really.


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#12 Island Time

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 10:22 PM

Yep, should be with corrosion inhibitor. Buy some ready to use from repco or super cheap, automotive stuff is fine. If your coolant hasn’t been changed for some time, change the lot. And, if it’s the turbo version, don’t forget to bleed the air from the little brass plug above the water tube by the exhaust outlet on the manifold.
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#13 Priscilla II

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 08:00 AM

Is there any difference in performance between red or green coolant.


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#14 DrWatson

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 09:13 AM

The red is faster...
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#15 Fish

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 11:10 AM

And the green is better for the environment ;-)


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#16 Island Time

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 11:36 AM

I like green. Rusty water looks redish. Green shows up better if spilt...
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#17 Neil

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 10:11 AM

Yep, should be with corrosion inhibitor. Buy some ready to use from repco or super cheap, automotive stuff is fine. If your coolant hasn’t been changed for some time, change the lot. And, if it’s the turbo version, don’t forget to bleed the air from the little brass plug above the water tube by the exhaust outlet on the manifold.

 

IT a quick question: The project is making progress albeit in a fiddly, awkward and everything difficult to get at way. Installed the new tank and re-plumbed the engine (the freshwater for the taps still requires some further tricky plumbing). Once the engine was hooked up I unscrewed the brass plug marked in the picture and filled the header tank until water poured out of the hole then plugged it back up again. Is that all I need to do in terms of bleeding the coolant or will I get further air locks once I run the engine? Presume I just run at idle and loosen the plug until only water is coming out? I am a bit uber paranoid about the turbo not being cooled properly as I'm picking that is pretty important. I'll start the engine once I've got the rest of the plumbing done over the next few days.

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#18 Island Time

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 10:35 AM

yep, thats the bleed valve. All you need to do is what you've done. A good modification is to take the header tank outlet from the thermostat housing and put it in the bleed valve hole - swap them over . Then no bleeding is required.


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