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Problem discovered under bowsprit, fibreglasser recommendations?


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Ok I think I can fix this, but I dont want to be worrying about my fix, if caught out in a storm (and, knowing my fibreglassing skills, I think I would be!). 

 

This is port and starboard view of my bow, under the bowsprit, (which I removed yesterday). Its obviously an area under great stress from the sprit, and needs now to to be (re-)built once, and built strong. Paying for a pro seems a small price to pay, so as to not to worry about my own efforts giving way, at an inopportune moment.

 

Any recommendations for someone reliable at HMB/Westhaven, etc, who will turn up when they say they will, and get the job done quickly, to minimize expense on the hard...?

 

Ta muchly.

 

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Defo a bowsprit. Just not a very strong one, IMO, despite the fact its 30+years old. I was thinking of replacing the thing with a nice hunk of wood, but it's a bigger job than you'd think....(no samson post, and not all that easy to reach the keel, to construct one).

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Did someone sail this boat all the way from Sweden?

Yep. It did a few transatlantics before that, too...

 

Needs a lot of work, though, before I'd even take it out of auckland harbour, tbh...

 

Under that bottom plank (hidden) is a thin stainless sheet, which is bolted through the deck (the damage was under this). Not sturdy, by any stretch...engineers will be having a look, to see if they can strengthen the sprit itself, although with this mess to sort i'm still toying with the idea of constructing something wooden from scratch...

 

Any ideas for strengthening/fixing the deck/hull, to support the old sprit though?

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Fitting a strongback from the deck plate to the keel would help. I'm wondering why the bobkin isn't taking most of the strain.

 

As freedom said, the stress on the deck should be minimal where the planks bolt through the deck. It looks like its either been hit or the forestay has pulled the bobkin up? Check the sprit metal work for any bending.

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Fitting a strongback from the deck plate to the keel would help. I'm wondering why the bobkin isn't taking most of the strain.

 

As freedom said, the stress on the deck should be minimal where the planks bolt through the deck. It looks like its either been hit or the forestay has pulled the bobkin up? Check the sprit metal work for any bending.

 

Yes the previous owner left mooring lines over the bowsprit, which bent it, badly, (in a way which very much looks as if the sprit has collided, head on, with something), and I guess this deck damage may also be the result...

 

I don't know though...this damage looked older to me. Mebbe it's just all the crud making me think that, though...

 

There is currently no backing plate to the deck bolts, here. I will address this, but i dont just want the backing plate to then rip out a (much bigger) hole in the deck, if it's not laminated strongly enough!

 

The bobstay turnbuckle was at its maximum adjustment for contraction, (ie, so it couldn't be tightened any more), but it seemed very hefty and taught to me: I did notice that when I loosened the forestay, that the bobstay became much looser, but I assumed this was to be expected. I also noted a very slight deflection to starboard to the bobstay plate at the waterline (at most 3mm), but it may have always been there, for all I know, and didnt look bad enough to me, to warrant attention. I'll try to upload pics later.

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Bobstay, yep. Bobkin on the stern...silly me. I like the current setup you have, just needs to strenghtened. Where the two bolts have gone through the deck is not where the main loading should be unless the other 4 load points have failed, probably by being hit. Is the steel supporting tube bent? I've just done this k8nd of repair myself. The pulpit got smacked, we assume by the friday panmure regatta guys trying to tac up the Tamaki and leaving the turn too late! It ripped the deck up under the pulpit anchoring plate but in our case it was ply. Was easily enough fixed, no scarfing required. Put a square of ply glued and screwed under deck then laminated epoxy glass over it building up the gap in three stages. Strong as. I know your orriginal question was who can do the job for you, if you were in Whangarei I know one in particular but its no big deal to do it yourself. Undoubtedly that entire broken section has to come out, be cut it out as trying to glue it back won't give it any strenght. When you cut it out give it a bevel as though you are scarfing in a new piece. This gives more surface area for the new laminate to adhere to. There's loads of guys in here who know more than I but Get someone who can go look at the job and advise you as you are doing it? Saves money and there's some satisfaction on doing your own repairs.

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It does not look too difficult to me. Remember that the vertical loads on the forestay are countered by the bobstay. The fore/aft horizontal loads are put on those thru deck bolts, and the rotational or athwartship loads by the metal frame and it’s fasthers near the toe rail.

It’s not hard to work out the loads, but as it’s been there 30 years, and it was fine until suffering an impact, the design was ok. No reason not to make it better though!

So, cut out all cracked material. Make a proper stainless backing plate for under the deck. Scarf in and glass the hole, make sure edges are overlapped 75 mm or more building the laminate to thickness required. Use triaxial or double bias cloth, layer like plywood.

Have the metal work repaired and ensure it’s straight. Re-drill the holes, paint etc. remount the metalwork, you’re done.

I’d use epoxy.

If you want a boatbuilder to do it you need someone local, as it will take a few visits. And pro painting as well is expensive....

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And pro painting as well is expensive....

 

Ha! No pro painting required...

 

Yep thanks all, I'll try to do it myself...

 

Cant help thinking that this is going to look like a pigs ear, but I suppose it will be hidden by the (fixed) bowsprit...

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Glass can be sanded and faired to look quite good (Lots of googlies on Crazyhorse hidden by glass!! hehe). This idea will effect your mount for the Bruce anchor but decreasing the bobstay angle? The way it is the bobstay angle is a bit too acute to stop upward movement. Not seeing a pic of the sprit underneath, where the bobstay anchor is, that could be lengthened a bit to give it a better pull downwards. (Looks like it's only us and IT on in here not making the most of the boxing day sales!!)

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I've just sent you a pm with contact details of a boat repair guy nearby.

 

He's a good dude, probably happy to help out for beer.

 

May or may not be around over the next week or two, haven't seen him for a few months

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