Welding cable

[vic008 17]

Just reading an old post by Zozza where he said he was studying electrics and they said don't have welding cable onboard. Why would this be?

[wheels 543]

It also used to be very hard to buy tinned cable in that kind of size. A lot more common now.
I use it and I ensure the ends are sealed. In fact it was proven to me this last weekend that Tinned does not always protect from issues. A Solar System on a Boat. Three panels connected to a main feed which runs to the reg and that connection is made inside what was supposed to be a waterproof box. The Box was also mounted under the Panel for weather protection. Yet somehow water got into the box and has slowly worked it's way down the inside of the cable and has corroded about 2.5m of cable.
 

[Crazyhorse 47]

Nail varnish...excellent at sealing cables, joins...when wife not looking.

[Island Time 1,232]

A proper cable crimp is air and watertight. Resin cored heat shrink over the lug to seal the cable insulation to the lug. About as water tight and long lasting as a cable can be, but nothing lasts forever, especially in a marine environment. Cable wicking wont get past a properly executed crimp. Done like this, welding cable will last a long time, provided the sheath isn't damaged.

[Island Time 1,232]

Solder is expressly prohibited by the ABYC. Its not the joint that fails, but it creates a hard point at the joint, and can break or damage the wire. According to them.

Heat shrink comes in multiple wall thicknesses. The heavy stuff is just that - 5mm odd thick...

[wheels 543]

And plus, it is important to use the right tool to crimp with. Do not use the silly crimp thing that comes on the cheap wire strippers.
I use either glue lined heatshrink, or I melt some hotmelt glue onto the connection and heat the shrink down over the connection.

[Ladyhawk 37]

And plus, it is important to use the right tool to crimp with. Do not use the silly crimp thing that comes on the cheap wire strippers.

I use either glue lined heatshrink, or I melt some hotmelt glue onto the connection and heat the shrink down over the connection.

Whats the best quality/value crimp tool and terminals available in NZ?

[Beccara 25]

Cabac hands down. At my last workplace putting telecommunication towers up all the power kit was done in Cabac crimps and crimping tools along with thin walled adhesive lined heat shrink. Had 1 or 2 fail over a decade due to installation issues

 

All the runs on Catknapp done in 25mm2 and 50mm2 were done with the Cabac K8 crimper, copper bell mouth crimps and XDW adhesive heatshrink. 2 years in and no issues, I tested the main battery cable a few months back and no change in resistance even under 50a load compared to my install notes

[Ladyhawk 37]

Cabac hands down. At my last workplace putting telecommunication towers up all the power kit was done in Cabac crimps and crimping tools along with thin walled adhesive lined heat shrink. Had 1 or 2 fail over a decade due to installation issues

 

All the runs on Catknapp done in 25mm2 and 50mm2 were done with the Cabac K8 crimper, copper bell mouth crimps and XDW adhesive heatshrink. 2 years in and no issues, I tested the main battery cable a few months back and no change in resistance even under 50a load compared to my install notes

Cheers Beccara, they have heaps of cool and useful stuff!

[Island Time 1,232]

Cabac,utilux,amp, all good quality crimpers.

[wheels 543]

A really good question and thew answers will be as varied as there are replies. Forget the little coloured red/blue/yellow terminals. They are hopeless and there are good and bad ones even in those. It is hard to find the good ones. Everyone has cheap versions.
I recommend the following. Simply because it is going to be easiest for most. Go to Jaycar and look for the terminals that have the heatshrink on them. They are expensive compared to the cheaper red/blue/yellow things. But far superior. If you want, you can drip a little hotmelt glue in the sleeve before shrinking it. This ensures the shrink jacket takes the cable strain. The actual crimp should never take the strain.
The Crimp tool you need to look for is a Ratchet type tool. There are many makes and versions ranging from about $40 to a couple of Hundred. For large cable like we started this thread with, you need a hex swage tool and there is one that is cheap and nasty and a waste of money, so beware. Otherwise they are specialised and very expensive tools. It would be cheaper to get a Marine sparky to crimp the terminals properly for you.
What is important to understand that these large crimps are designed to " cold weld", thus keeping air and moisture out and maintain a perfect connection. It is not just a simple squeeze together connection.
 

[Island Time 1,232]

I Crimp everything, except nmea0183 cables, for which crimp terminals are hard to find, I solder those, with heat shrink over.