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Teak deck options


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Yes as BP says, if it's been leaking into the ply then the fix is along the lines of:

 

-take off all teak

-inspect ply and find any wet areas/rot

-replace/repair problem areas of ply

-glass over ply

-fair

-paint

 

If you don't sort any wet ply out then anything you put over the top won't necessarily stop the problems that may already exist underneath from spreading.

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Its stuffed. Once it starts letting water through to the base layer, there is no going back.

The sooner you tackle the job, the easier it is, specifically that you have less rotten ply deck to cut out.

Basically do what raz said. We had to do it ourselves. Once you put down a nice new glass over ply deck, you wont miss the shitty looking old grey teak at all.

It is a simple enough job to tackle yourself, assuming you are half pie competent at DIY, and reading instructions. Invest in some good knee pads though....

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How do you handle the ply joins? Scarf would be nice but cant see it happening. Use butt blocks underneath? What thickness ply? (34'yacht)

You can do just about anything you want. It depends how fussy you are, and how much ply needs replacing. There is basically no difference in work doing a small 50 mm by 50 mm patch compared with doing a whole patch toe-rail to cabin side and frame to frame.You still have to measure it, cut it, fit it, glue it etc. The important bit is to insure you have got all of the wet / soft / rotten stuff. Joining on the frames is going to be the best long term. Avoids future issues of the join getting loose. You could scarf or butt join underneath if the situation called for it, space, access, other deck furniture you want to avoid etc.

 

If you do it yourself, plan ahead and get the right tools for the job. What you save in time and energy, and re-work on stuff ups, is worth a little bit of outlay. I remember some guys trying to strip back old topside paint with some toy sander. I loaned them a descent rotary orbital and they just about wet themselves with how much faster and easier it was... that is just one example of the right tool for the job. There are all sorts of dremels and multi-tool oscillating saw things around now that are very handy at cutting ply off just right, and not cutting into the frames etc underneath. 

 

Edit, thickness ply to match what is there. Do try and get good marine ply, not some cheap Bunnings CD grade rubbish.

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What he said , been there :-)

Its stuffed. Once it starts letting water through to the base layer, there is no going back.

The sooner you tackle the job, the easier it is, specifically that you have less rotten ply deck to cut out.

Basically do what raz said. We had to do it ourselves. Once you put down a nice new glass over ply deck, you wont miss the shitty looking old grey teak at all.

It is a simple enough job to tackle yourself, assuming you are half pie competent at DIY, and reading instructions. Invest in some good knee pads though....

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Ok, will wait for better weather,strip fittings off, remove all teak, then probable annoy you again. One problem is doing under the deck mounted shrouds without mast falling over.

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Did all this on a 28footer. When removing teak a short pry bar was great and then an electric plane. Fisished then with orbital sander. Didnt need to touch ply apart from a small section. Glassed over and glued/dowelled toe rails on top. took 1 week flat out from out to in.Coved around cabin top after glassing so totally watertight. Still looked mint 5 years later when I sold that boat.

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