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Engine smoke / mechanic required??


ab1974

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I had simillar issues, i took my injectors out, serviced with new needles , all good now.

 

 

taking injectors out of a 4108 is easy, cost about $350 for new needles and setup, took me about 6 hours

 

its not hard to do, while out run a compresion test, the company rebuilding injectors lent me the compresion tester....

 

Peter

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boat as the air is clean.

I have heard that being said many times too. But I have found filters dirty. Personally I would not risk it.it only takes 1/4cup of dust particels to flow through the engine and it's wrecked.

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Having seen the state for some air filters I would have a decent air filter on any new engine I was having installed.

 

For the low hours that many yacht engines run, with poor air filters it could take many many years for any damage to occur.

If you ran your boat's engine for 3hours every week for 35 years you would have clocked nearly 5500hours so in the big scheme of things that is not a lot of hours compared to what commercial vessels clock up.

 

Slacko it would be interesting to know how many hours that engine you mentioned has run in 35years?

 

What sort of hours are people clocking up on their engines in a year.

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What sort of hours are people clocking up on their engines in a year.

 

I've had a light year this time around and only clocked up 100 hrs or so. Something to do with it spending more time out of the water than in!

 

Traditionally it's been up around the 150hr mark.

 

Also 2000 hrs = rebuild for me (mesh filter). They found multiple bearing failures (Big ends + cam) and put it down to either air contaminants or poor quality oil. No way to now for sure. I have my theories but ... that's all they are.

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The clock says 1960 hrs.

Only 10 minutes in the last 2 years sadly though.(Almost ready for the splash)

Probably only 50 hours in the 5 years I've had her, it's a yacht after all. :)

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It will change dramatically up here once she gets here, but for me, 250hrs a year would be an average. But we had 4hrs to open sea for a starter and often just layzed around the inner sounds, which meant it was not much point in sailing and sometime motor sailing was common. So not hard to clock the hrs up at all.

Ferrari, quite possibly dirty air combined with the oil. Dirt will clogg the oil up and block filters earlier and then bypass the dirty oil around the engine. Diesel Oil has a lot of "detergent" in it which helps suspend carbon particles so as they are taken to the filter for removal. So dirt gets suspended. Cheap oils(not saying you used such) are cheap because they lack qaulity or quantity of several key pack additives. The base oils are pretty much all the same. The additive pack the manufacturer then uses to bring the oil up to the required spec is what does the real work. So cheaper oils can lack or have poor EP(Elasto polymer) strength, Detergent, Acid neutralising and polarizing additives. EP strength is what maintains a film thickness in the oil. That thickness is what keeps metal components apart. So the film has to be able to strong enough to ensure there is a thin layer of oil and it's componenets between the metals and thick enough to ensure that small particles are smaller than that film, so they are not grinding the surfaces as they pass between. Polerization is what causes oil to "cling" to metal parts and thus it gets picked up and stays coated to parts, especially after the engine has stopped.

The problem with some dirt particles, is that they are not Carbon particles and don't "mix" well with oil. If they get crried around the engine, they can do a lot of damage. Dirt within the combustion chamber changes during combustion because of the heat and pressure. What the particle was determins what it will be. Fine earthen particles will turn to glass and will act light sanding grits in the bore. The air can be full of Pollens and other fine organic matter and they turn to ash, which can also be very abrasive.

Yes engine hrs may remain low for some of you. But even 30yrs, you eventually have to rebiuld or replace and seeing as most rebiulds will cost in the region of 10K and on up, I would likemy engine to last as long as I can possibly make it last.

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Someone asked about FTC fuel additive a few posts ago, I did some research on it last year. Its actually a combustion catalyst not like other so called 'smoke reducing' additives which are detergent based cleaners.

 

FTC speeds up the combustion process almost bypassing the CO stage on the way to the CO2 stage. The combustion flame easily removes carbon build up from the various areas it adheres to, good for the engine and loads more power.

 

It can only be bought on-line. I use it in my fleet of vehicles and am very happy with it. A contact lets me use his discount code 'MM10'. He won't mind I've let the cat out of the box.

 

Theres loads of benefits but rather than me go on about it check out www.neptuneproducts.co.nz

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Don't waste your money on additives. I have said it before, that there are currently 9 law suits against additive companies, well that has risen dramaticaly. There is growing realisation that there is no "secret formulae" out there that causes the miricles many products proclaim. What has become clear is that pretty much all additives are based on two simple products. These products neither perform to what is advertised, nor give the level of protection many proclaim and if anything, may even be more detrimental to your engine.

One of the real big name additive companies, "Motor Up" (sold in Repco and Supercheap) currently has a US$20mill law suit against it by the US Federal TradeCommision.

So be very very careful and sceptical about what is claimed.

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Referring to the white smoke being a sign of overheating comment. That's usually steam showing as sign the raw water pump isn't delivering enough water to the exchanger/ exhaust. It means check and /or replace your impeller.

The previous owner of my boat fitted a K and N air filter, which you'll know about if you tend to muck around with cars. The main benefit of these and ignoring the performance gains they claim, being you can regularly clean and re oil them. Seeing the stuff that accumulates on it from what should be a clean engine box( black crap....mostly fanbelt wear I think) I'd rather have a good air filter than not.

 

While we're talking about good things on boat engines, invest in a good raw water strainer if you don't already have one . I pulled a live bait balloon and some nylon fishing line out of mine day 2 into the chrissy cruise this year.

 

IMG_8126_12.jpg

 

I fitted that filter in june this year and the previous filter was no more than a gimmicked up piece of metal gauze in the raw water supply line . The balloon would have blocked it for sure.

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