Atom Ant 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 OK, I hauled the Ant last weekend, and with lots of help from our own Squid got it sanded and antifouled by the end of the weekend. An old timer once said to me that after antifouling, it is best to wait for a while before relaunching as it gives the paint time to harden and it will last longer if I do. I've certainly found this to be my experience as the last two times I've left it out for between 1 and 2 weeks after painting and it's lasted for 18 months - 2 years. Question is how long is long enough? Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Wheels will be the man, we had another paint expert round here but... Layman's view: it probably isn't getting much harder after one week out. And I'm not sure if hard is advantageous any longer with ablative/semi-ablative antifouls. Would also be interesting to hear whether the "fresh water hose-down immediately before relaunching" works or is a myth. Link to post Share on other sites
Atom Ant 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Maybe harden is the wrong word. Perhaps cure or something is better. Certainly when I was trying the flash expensive Micron ones they didn't last me even a year and the only thing I do different now is leave the boat out of the water for a while after painting. Sea Horse is a semi ablative and this time I timed it right as with a quick water blast and a wet sand it was an easy job. Took me most of a day to get the top 4" off where it sits above the true waterline though! I'm not saying anything bad about the micron ones because they didn't get the same time treatment that Seahorse has got, but given that it's the cheapest on the retail market and it's been the best performing I've ever had I wonder if I'd given the micron ones the same "cure" time if I'd have got a better result? Who knows cos I got this Sea Horse for $99 through TradeMe and I'm very happy as it's two years til I do it again all going well! Link to post Share on other sites
w44vi 17 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 $99 is that for 4ltrs Link to post Share on other sites
Atom Ant 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 Yes indeed - pretty good huh! 18 months ago I bought it through Trademe it cost $70 for 4 litres. You can't even get it direct from Benjamin Moore for that! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 I'd check the tin as a few don't actually like being dry for long at all. Had one a few years back that had to be wet inside 24hrs of application or it would seriously down grade performance. I have heard once anti-F is dry keep it wet with fresh water until you go splash. No idea if that's real or knot. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 KM is correct. Do not leave it out too long. I think three days is about the limit. But the instructions, that those little words usually found on the back of the Tin or in the pamphlet that we blokes never look at, should tell you a minimum and Max time. AF paints do not "cure" like a normal paint does. Once the Solvent has gone, the paint is ready to do business. I (cough cough) of people that have even splashed while the paint was wet. Not the done thing though as the Solvent is entering the water system. Far better having it enter the air we breath Having the coating "last longer" maybe a case of it not erroding as fast as it should. If it erodes away to nothing before you haul out, it means you didn't apply it thick enough. Once again the instructions will tell you how much to apply and you add an extra coat to places the water moves faster like Keel and rudder leading edges and waterline etc. The main concern with leaving the paint out too long is that the Biocides stop working correctly. They are not supposed to get too dry. I have heard silly comments about waching the hull with fresh water to reactivate the paint if it has been out for awhile. Complete utter garbage. Link to post Share on other sites
Sharpie 0 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 after replacing the appendages and bottom job on River Rebel owner elected for micron 66 and the recommendation from the painters (boat Spray who did a mint job) was to leave it out for 7 days to allow all the solvents to evaporate out for best results - bottom was stripped back though so was re-primed and then 3 coats of antifoul, lots of paint on we run the same on Second Nature and have had a really good run out of micron - hasnt been antifouled in 3 years but is due soon - think it helps to waterblast rather than sponge clean im sure that helps with longevity Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 It would be good to test two hulls, one drying like you did and the other in the water within say 24hrs. But in saying that, Micron 66 is a 3 yr AF prividing it has been applied properly. In fact many AF's will last quite some time if applied thick enough. The biggest issues with the longevity of any of the AF's and performance for that matter, is that it is often not applied heavy enough. And of course applying correctly tends to bring tears to our eyes as we all find the Gorse in our pockets. Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 With abalative antifouls on an old wooden launch we'd have about 24 inches of tide between application and submersion! Definitely a case of painting from the lowest parts upward. The hard stuff could be a whole nother kettle of fish. Link to post Share on other sites
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