Jump to content

antifouling


Guest

Recommended Posts

wanting to know a approx price to anti-foul a 30ft yacht :?:

 

and how to do it, do you need to sand right back or not

 

cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

What AF do you curently have on there. Hard AF may require sanding. Soft just a good waterblast, unless it is really ruff, in which it may need scraping back. Then roll on two good coats. Don't skimp. I was helping a mate that had a floor sanding/painting buisness. The first time I helped roll on a coating, he told me, "you put it on like you aren't paying for it".

Link to post
Share on other sites

not sure what af it has, looking at buying it it has not moved in over 2 years there is alot of growth on the hull will probably need taking right back not sure

 

just wanted to know how many liters it will need to re coat a 30 footer so i can work out a price

 

also wanting to know how much a haul out costs and hard berth prices for bucklands beach or h.m.b

 

 

thanks Clint

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard AF's are normally found on racing hulls and Aluminium Hulls. A cruising boat will nrmally have Soft.

A 30ft'r depending on Hull/keel design, would take probably 6-8ltrs.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Should be a soft then. I would go for 8ltrs. Roll on two good coats and then a third around leading edges of Keel and Rudder, most especially where prop wash hits Keel and around the waterline. Waterlines get a hammering from the wavelets lapping against the hull.

If she has sat for sometime and you could suspect that the anodes have not been replaced for a long time, inspect the Prop for large spot areas of pink'ish colouration.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also inspect insides of gate valves and any copper waste pipes for pinking as well.

 

International have a CD on boat paints that's freely available at the chanderlies, or it used to be!.

 

IMHO, I'd query Wheels' comment "where prop wash hits Keel"

 

Prop wash should hit the rudder first :!: :!:

 

but perhaps this could expain why wheels has so much internet broadband problems if he travels backwards around the the sounds :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh crap thats why KM beat me in the short handed series! Actually I was sailing backwards for a time in one of the races!

 

FYI given my boat is 29 ft 5 1/2 inches it almost qualifies as a 30 footer. I use almost exactly 6 litres to a/f my boat which lasts between 18 - 24 months. Wheels is right, once around the waterline, leading edges and then two good coats over the whole boat.

 

Of course 6 litres is two cans of paint!

Link to post
Share on other sites

6ltrs=two cans is correct and hence why I suggested slapping the remainder(if any) around those fast wearing areas. Because AF like most paints left in cans, lasts aprox just before the point of when you need to open the can again. Doesn't matter is it is 12mths or 12yrs, two minutes before you need it, it goes hard in the can. :wink:

Link to post
Share on other sites

So option one is to use it all up.

You bought it so why knot use it all up.

Three coats everywhere is better than 2.

 

Five coats on the leading edges, on the RUDDER when the prop wash should hit and on the back of the keel should you ever take wheels for a sail or go south to the sounds.

 

Option 2. is to buy the same paint Brand & type) BUT IN TWO different colours, e.g. black and red each 4 litre tins. :think:

 

This way when the top colour works itself off, is scrubbed or waterblasted off, the underneath colour starts to show and you can can see how long the a/f is lasting on your boat, in your conditions, with your usage and worst of all, your steering :?: :crazy:

 

This allows you to have alternatived coloured bottoms every time you do a complete a/f repaint, or have fancy stripes on your keel al la Team NZ flames on bulbs, or messages like SOS or HELP prepainted should you carelessly capsize or loose a keel. :think: :thumbdown:

 

:idea: If you have a sail drive, painting the area of hull around the alloy sail drive leg with a NON-COPPER e.g. Alloy A/F paint could save some alloy damage on your sail drive leg.

 

It may knot help that much, but it certainly won't harm things. Just trying this myself on one yacht at the moment. Painted the sail drive, rubber seal and 300mm on the hull all around with black and the rest is red.

 

Two toned hull antifoul colour systems will be the next fashion statement, but you heard it here first.

 

1).

2 x 4 litre = almost enough paint, until you need to retouch something, waterblast, change a prop on a sail drive and/or fit a new anode.

 

2).

Missing from you calculations is the amount of paint lost when you:

 

kick over the can

 

Stand on the paint tray

 

drop a roller in the dirt of the haul out area

 

place a can or tray on that wobbly stack of chocking up blocks

 

fail to allow for some stray dog to upset your carefully placed can or tray

 

miscalculating how quickly the yard fork hoist, travel lift or van can squash your can

 

3).

Additional paint is required if you ever step up a ladder, trestle, planking system on any thing.

 

4).

In addition to buying the paint you need, thats the 6 litres, pronounced 2x 4 Litre tins, it is a wise decision to buy another tin of about 500ml to 1litre for painting all the chock marks, bottom of the keel, sling marks, knot to mention the ability to read the instructions and the type of thinner you should of bought but didn't.

 

So I have left out many other factors, which hopefully others will list but the above calculations will be a start.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Even better, have a friend bring you a can to the third world country you have sailed to. This is a bad idea as the can (inside the luggage the moron) will pop open with great force when the plane is at altitude. This will be discovered as you are standing at a carousel waiting for the lauggage. You will first hear a grumbling from a few passengers as they find spots of sticky foul red stuff on the luggage. It will grow to a roar of disapproval very quickly as the next few bags appear dripping in fresh anti foul.

Your friend will quietly slink away, never picking up her luggage then try to talk you into buying her a whole new wardrobe to replace that lost bag.

Link to post
Share on other sites

So that is how Squid annoys air line staff, customs, fellow travellers et al all in one go.

 

Why won't she talk to you Squid :?:

Link to post
Share on other sites

PaulR that is a comprehensive list of all the issues that face a would be antifouler. One more thing CD. Don't forget to buy some antifouling thinners. Use up to 10% by volume and remember to shut the lid of the can tight while painting. If you're using a roller then the cheap ones from Mitre10 that are not designed for antifouling will go round the boat once. The roller is designed to be used on very smooth surfaces and does a great job on a boat bum. With ablative antifouling the first time you clean it, any dags and lumps will come off. PaulR comment about painting one colour over another is excellent, but it only really works with ablative paints.

 

What one to use? That's like asking are blondes prettier than brunettes. Of course the answer is yes but apparently some people prefer brunettes!

 

You got your hard antifouling, which is good to use if you clean it often as it will stay on for longer, or if you race alot and waterblast it often it will stand up to it quite well, but actually is a bastard to sand before the next antifoul and typically there tends to be build up over the years as people don't sand it back completely before applying the new stuff.

 

You got your ablative and semi ablative antifouling which is also known as self polishing antifouling. These sorta wear away over time and are a little easier in terms of physical effort. If you waterblast it often then don't use a these as most of it will disappear down the drain. Buildup can still occur if you're lazy over the years and then it starts to fall off in big chunks after a while. This can be avoided at re-painting time by by giving the bottom a bloody good water blast and a wet sand and bob's your uncle you'll be ready to paint again in no time.

 

Then there's TBT's but they're bad for the environment unless they're on an NZ Navy ship and then they're ok. So you aren't allowed to use them unless you wanna get some illegally from Fiji. But it'll be cheaper just to drive to your local shop and buy something else.

 

What brand? Back to the blonde vs brunette question I'm afraid and the more people you ask the more different answers you'll get. But where you park your boat will have a big influence on what you buy. Go to the local chandler and ask them what brand they sell the most of. It'll be a good indicator at least.

 

I use a semi ablative as it suits me, as it is slightly harder wearing than an ablative, but still has the gradual wear away properties that I like as I like to get the bottom almost back to the primer each time I re-do the antifouling. I do a two colour paint job. i.e. this time I've done black over grey so that I know when its time to start thinking about it again.

 

Don't forget to propspeed your prop at the same time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Don't forget to buy some antifouling thinners. Use up to 10% by volume and remember to shut the lid of the can tight while painting.

NOOOOOoooooo!!!!!!! :shock: If you read the information on the product, you will see it say's in big bold letters, "DO NOT THIN" :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I'll be f*cked, cos whatshisname Brown(?) from Altex said thin it but no more than 10%. If you're using a roller you'll get a better finish this way. PS, I've been thinning my antifouling for years and providing you stick to an absolute maximum of 10% you'll be fine. Of course perhaps 2 years for an ablative isn't very long but I thought it was pretty good!

 

But if you don't want to thin it then don't. :D

 

OK I edited my bad language. :lol:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey DT your spell checking thingy doesn't work on an extension of the actual verb f*ck!!! I'm presuming it's a verb as when I was at school I was taught that a verb is a doing word.

Link to post
Share on other sites

with the old yacht I used a hard antifoul first, multiple coats on leading edges and water line, then put 2 costs of an ablative antifoul (red) over the top leaving a small bit of the hard antifoul (blue) on the water line as a boot topping.

Altex commercial antifoul was what I used.

2008_05_25  (4).JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...