mattm

I think there have been lengthy discussions on here about the guy selling that Raven too.... someone saying he was a bit dodgy - buying broken boats, making dodgy repairs and selling them as good, or something similar. Be(extra)ware maybe.

What are you on Kevin? Calm down.

I doubt it will be an alternator issue. Testing alternators with external regs sometimes requires briefly full fielding the alternator, they don’t kick anything like that, not even on a single cylinder 10hp running at lower revs. Same for the fridge compressor, the go off to full on instantly on every engine that has one and this isn’t the result.

Those test results are grim for Spinlock. Kong has a bigger opening and bearing surface and is thicker, between 1.65 to 10 x stronger, yet still lighter, rated to more standards, cheaper and easier to use 😮

You can download the software free, it’s called ‘Nexus Race’. The original instrument system would/should have come with the RS232 to USB cable, a generic serial port to USB converter may suffice if you don’t have the original. Although, it may not be any help if the MHU isn’t outputting any data, there’s unlikely to be anything relevant to see in the software. It’s just as though you don’t have wind gear. I take it you have checked the connections at the bottom of the mast? I think being connected to the BUS will mean it’s outputting processed digital data rather than an analogue signal like

Thought you were going to say ‘put the wife on a diet’ 😂😬

Talking a dead man into something seems a bit futile. I have a merc 2 stroke 15. It’s heavy enough to lug around the boat, and I’m not really a fan of putting it on the pushpit bracket because of the weight of it. yammy short shaft 15hp 2 stroke, 36kg yammy short shaft 15hp 4 stroke 50(!!!!!)kg To me the question is how will you store it, how often will you take it off the dinghy, how often will you need to lift it. If you can work with the weight of 4-st, then yeah sure, go for it.

Maybe a good school holiday activity while they can’t be at the boat is to read up on the racing rules of sailing. There are some great free online resources, giving the rules and cases which give a good explanation of how and when they are applied, like this: https://www.racingrulesofsailing.org/rules

Are you saying they know how to sail but have never raced? If that’s the case, there is a benefit in dinghy sailing you won’t get in keelers. Basically, they are geared up for teaching. Dinghy clubs will have a chase boat, and a learn to sail course which morphs into learn to race and the rules. Once racing, a chase boat can help with basic sailing, and there’s fleets where it’s expected many are still learning rules, so much assistance is offered. Crashes typically aren’t expensive and repairs if required are easy and quick (relatively). In keel boats, there will be less people nearby to h

How do you comply while motoring though? Power-driven vessels underway Subject to 22.23(3), a power-driven vessel underway must exhibit— (a) a masthead light forward; and (b) a second masthead light abaft of and higher than the forward one, EXCEPT that a vessel of less than 50 metres in length is not obliged to exhibit such light but may do so; and (c) sidelights; and (d) a sternlight. In addition to the lights prescribed in rule Instead of exhibiting the lights prescribed in subrule (1), a power-driven vessel— (a) of less than 12 metres in length may exhibi

Can anyone post a photo of a (modern) yacht, or describe an option that complies with this? Most common I’ve seen is as 180s has posted, but although close, are not actually above the top lifelines. Only thing I can think of is a classic I worked on with them mounted on a board lashed to the side stays.

Be worth looking after then, make sure the power cables are healthy and the winch is getting good voltage. Prevent it rusting, grease the clutch cones, check the deck seal and gearbox seal to make sure they are not worn, and hose off after use to remove silt from the deck seal. Per the manual. Those are the main killers I’ve seen.

I’ve had many of the winch motors sand blasted and repainted with decent, hardy, paint. Even when they have layers of rust shedding off, as long as water hasn’t made it inside the motor. Can extend their life by years. By starter are you referring to the engine starter or the winch motor, which is sort of a modified starter motor?

I find it amusing that first link is sponsored by Vetus Maxwell. No one is worse at making paint stick than they are, with the blue paint on the anchor winch motors. It falls off and the motor rusts before the packagings thrown away.

There was a known issue with the DST’s doing this - losing the bottom and picking up the bulb. I know B&G put out a software fix for transducers newer than a certain serial number. My own one was older, but has the issue, which they told me it shouldn’t as they thought the issue only effected newer ones, they said they were looking into it. Annoying.

Sorry, *dims down low. The back lights on tablets tend to be much brighter on their lowest settings than a dedicate marine display. As for the mast, ideally look for an old unused cable you can use as a draw wire. Find some slack in a wire and see if you can pull it up / down the mast a bit - proving their not stuck. I’ve seen masts where all the wires are cable tied together, preventing drawing a new wire through. I’ve also seen a mast where someone had drilled into the electrical conduit through each halyard exit slot, and injected sikaflex into 4 holes, and epoxy into the 5th. Ob

Seems they had an issue with the control panel and / or control box not starting or stopping the engine, and not feeding power out to run the tach or alarms. This was a few years ago, I worked on a D1-20 yesterday that’s ~2.5 years old and has the issue. Evidently a world wide problem on all D series. Other forums have people saying it may have been a bad batch, may have been the official story, although others say they had several parts replaced sometimes more than once to solve it. I’d want to know this was resolved before buying one.

With the name brand sensors I deal with, they will output data to NMEA2k without a same brand display, but you can’t calibrate them without such a display. Calibration is often rough enough after install, depending on weather, then a bit of fine tuning after use. Thus, if you can borrow a display to calibrate the sensor after install, you do t have to get a matching screen. There are benefits though - no charging, always available, waterproof, drums down low for night time. Marine display vrs tablet is a whole ‘nother topic though. If I were you, if you don’t already know the answer,

Rehab. You are the cause of this rule. You alone, as I see it. You know this, you read IT’s post a few weeks back saying his preference was for you not to spam the site, but it wasn’t currently against site rules so he was thinking of an effective rule to prevent it. You replied saying ‘preference noted’ then continued to spam the site with mostly illiterate dribble. Now you down vote people saying it may restrict people using this site for the purpose it was created - to talk about boating, when, again, you are the cause of this new rule, because of your constant posting of dribble

There is someone advertising a Winchrite ABT electric winch handle for sale in my clubs enews if that sounds any good. $1500 new, asking $1200. Looks like they go for $779us from the manufacturer. No idea what they are like.

I’d agree with you, although, according to information on the Sport NZ website released on the 7th of May, contact sports are OK. If rugby is back on, surely a race crew of similar numbers should be allowed? NZ would never have different rules for different people would we?

I had an endless system in a sport boat for, I forget now, at least 5 years. Worked really well and never got in trouble with it once (the endless sheet bit anyway), and it ran big kites. Trick is having the right amount of sheet, enough it can flog when need be. I find it better, otherwise both sheets need enough to flog and it’s all over the cockpit floor all the time. New owner has changed it to separate, I find it’s a mess. A nifty knot/splice to allow it to gybe around the forestay is handy, but it didn’t matter as much once we got blow through gybes sorted.

I see one for sale in Aus, says it’s designed by Alan Roper, would that be the same guy as this boat, or coincidentally the same name? Very different style of boat and build technique...

Although does that take you to the oldest post you haven’t read, or just the latest post?

I thought ‘sarcastic’ was recently redefined as ‘seriously proposing a stupid idea’?