mattm

If he uses a relay, he can run the relay output to his existing aux. socket, and leave the fridge plugged into that all the time. This is the cheapest and best option. Only parts needed are a >$10 relay and a few crimps, you end up with an automatic system. 12v fridge suppliers such as Fridgetech sell this system as an option with their fridges. The charger route does work, but with some potential draw backs. First if shore power fails, the fridge flattens your batteries before it stops working. Second, if the charger isn’t big enough, the fridge load may keep it from staying in float

You can use a changeover relay. Wire it so the 12v feed from the transformer does 2 things - 1 turns the relay on, and 2, feeds the fridge through the now closed relay contacts. When that feed is disconnected - ie. no shore power, the relay turns off, and falls back to the other relay contact with the 12v battery power. You don’t need to do a thing that way. May sound complex, but it’s about the easiest job you could ask a competent marine electrician to do.

Talk to Fridgetech Marine in Auckland. They can sell you the correctly rated insulation, in a variety of thicknesses. They can also supply it with a plastic layer on one or both sides, which can be used as the inside liner of the box, just cut insulation/plastic sheets to shape, glue together, seal edges, box made.

Prop speed the shaft, but not the anode - it won’t work of covered in prop speed. To make the prop speed stick, you need to key the surface, ie. make it rough by sanding the surface, which will be bad news for the nice shiny surface.

Racetrack only has 3 on record. Oldsmobile which is raced still in a Waikawa, Prawn Broker, which hasn’t had a race recorded on racetrack since 2016 in Aucklald, and Positive Touch, which hasn’t raced recorded since 2009, in Auckland also. http://racetrack.org.nz/class.php?rnk=2&s=1&classid=132

A few reasons I’d say. Primarily, they are part of a business, AIS installation would add to expenses with no return of profit, so why would they? Another reason may be pushback. The harbourmaster discussed forcing all commercial boats in the sounds to get AIS. At the time, the HM had been making a lot of noise about boats including commercial, exceeding speed limits. The thought was the harbour master would use AIS to sit in his office and send out fines for speeding. The commercial operators wouldn’t do it. It’s actually a consideration for many pleasure boats too. It seems silly, but wh

Nope. The way standards nz works seems crazy to me also. It costs hundreds, likely into the thousands to buy access to the electrical reg’s for boats, but the time you by the standard and all the others it references. Then the rules say something along the lines of, you can’t print out more than 10% of the standards you own, any thing printed must be destroyed after 7 days, anything downloaded must be removed from computer within, I think, 1 month. Astounding.

Paul, I normally cut and heat crimp the wires near the sensor which has been successful for me. They are very sensitive to water, the way the sensor works dictates that. Some do seem to fail for no reason, normally after a few years.also, the sensitivity of the sensor is calibrated at the factory, it would seem with some variation. I’ve seen them where perfume sets them off. If in a remote place, with a faulty sensor, you could disconnect the sensor from the back of the control, you link the G and B terminals to make the control ignore that input. Same as if you only use one sens

The ones BEP sell have an over ride function for that issue Jon. From memory you hold the test button in for 10 seconds - after ensuring it is a false alarm. I’ve not seen the bep ones shut off without alarming, I’ve seen a heap die from being wet. In theory, the green OK light turns to an orange fault light, rather than the red alarm light. Not sure on other brands. Only issue then is the electrical solenoid valve failing. May still pay to carry a backup on longer trips.

So they refuse to honour gift cards, and sell a bunch of stuff with no warranty or returns at questionably ‘discounted’ prices, then do a rebrand, as part of simply one owner buying out the other? I’d have thought that might loose them a fair amount of good will around the place and hurt the business for a while, good location or not?

I reckon if some of us were out there on the boat, we would understand why towing it somewhere wasn’t an option. For numerous reasons. Massive shame to loose an awesome boat for a crew with big aspersions. Pleased the crew are safe.

They must have been cursing the runabout, it seemed their wake and not being able to bare away because of them we’re the issues. What an epic run otherwise, defining the boundary of control?

I’d say he means more like this wheels. Which attaches to the battery. This one claims to be lithium cobalt, 24000mAh, 1000a peak current. It also has USB and a cig socket, as well as a light, I mention this, as interestingly, the specs say it can fully charge an iPhone 10 times, or jump start up to 40 motors ???? My work van battery died a sudden and total death two weeks ago, starter gave barely a click, I jump started it with this four times that day, 2.7l petrol, as well as a customers 500hp diesel, with a battery flat enough it would crank only for a moment, and charged my phone for a

Looks like a great idea. Maybe should inflate a little bigger? I like that it can be thrown, as long as the thrower has decent aim, allows for extra time between mob and getting a life ring to them or not. I always wonder about the big hard life rings, if you think someone’s in trouble, throw one of those at them and make sure of it....

Side note, if cruise ships are taking sea water to make up for burnt oil, they won’t be letting it out in Picton as they don’t refuel here. The only other ships we get are log ships, which arrive empty and leave full, be interesting to know what they do re ballast, I think I recall seeing ships pumping water out in Tauranga as they load? Either way, the only fan worm I’ve heard of here is from pleasure boats, I know the guys who do the diving and the head of biosecurity at the council, was talking to him about it last week.

The photo isn’t zoomed in, that’s almost the full length of a bulb on a 50’ boat. I don’t think any fan would has been found where the ships dock in Picton, but I believe it was 150 odd found in the marina under this boat, and a handful at one other spot in the marina - this boat triggered a new search. They find a few on different boats each year, but at the moment it seems to be under control. They dive all marinas and mooring fields every 6 months. The council have taken the GPS track log from this boat, and are having all ares the boat went / moored inspected - luckily only a couple of tri

What’s the battery / charging system like? Genset or just main engine as main charge source? All good having a big inverter, but you need to be able to power it. Have you got the battery capacity to realistically run it engine off? Or would 1500w be engine in only? If engine on, 1500w could draw 130A+, can the alternator hack that, or would 5 mins of 1500w mean 30 mins of engine run to recharge the difference used. Is that what you want? What would you need to run that would make you ok with that? Does the boat have a smart (3 step) alternator regulator - great upgrade if thinking of heavy 12v

Pm sent

You don’t need another wire. Just connect the alarm + to the manual operation wire at the back of the switch, and - somewhere under the dash. The alarm will go off when ever the pump runs, auto or manual.

Says something along the lines of Part 2 rules apply between boats that are sailing in or near the sailing area and intend to race, are racing or have been racing. The definitions say ‘racing’ is from prep signal to finish. No definition for ‘intending to race’ or when that starts / stops, so I’d assume the above scenario would be included, and therefore the rrs are applicable, not irpcas, as both boats were near the racing area and intended to race. At least, according the the old rule book I have at home, my current version is on the boat.

In my eyes, theses new tech batteries need to prove themselves in boats over their claimed lifespans. They are considerably more expensive, but if their claim to lifespan and number of cycles prove correct, they would be good value for money, but I’d rather let someone else be the Guinea pig and prove they will go the distance in a boat first. I’m happy with AGM in the meantime.

The DVSR turns on at 13.2 and off again at 12.7. If you turn something on that draws more than the solar output, it will draw from both batteries until the voltage drops to 12.7. Depending on the size of the banks, the size of the load and the health of you batteries, that could be seconds or hours. The start battery when cut off at 12.7 will still have plenty left.

If the stuff on the shelves is worth so much less than the sticker price, maybe it isn’t / shouldn’t be ‘voluntary liquidation’ after all. If it is, and they are fully solvent, no reason to dishonour gift vouchers as all creditors are going to get paid....

Www.dieselheaters4u.co.uk Is a guy from Turkey, he sells internationally with free fright and you don’t pay gst / duty. The website has links for Marine kits (complete with all the bits, add extra hose or outlets if needed) from eberspacher or webasto. He has spare parts and is very helpful by email. The prices are often near half of the nz price, for the latest model, not a knockoff. I dont often reccomend importing stuff, but at half price nz suppliers just can’t compete. I know of at least half a dozen people local to me who got them from him last winter, and several every winter befor

Nice VB! That’s awesome. What breed of jav is that?