mcp

I have a marinised Shibaura S753 [Perkins 104-10, Perkins Perama M30, Volvo MD2030, Caterpillar 3003, ford 1220 and there are lots more places this engine has been used]. It is a solid little engine that has found its way into lots of equipment, machinery and tractors, so parts are no problem at reasonable prices or full rebuild kits for that matter. It has unknown hours or history. It does start easy if glow plugs are heated from cold or if warm no issue at all, no smoke under load either. But I would just prefer the piece of mind of a semi blank slate on the history of a boat engine.

If the settings for each device is the same or similar, then simply they will all work together within their own ratings and until they reach the limit of their settings. Very rarely will you find conflict from multiple charge sources, but technically you can get a drop in efficiency.

Smells like BS to me.

I was just reading about this the other day. http://www.kiwiprops.co.nz/cms/index.php/resources-general/antifouling

What are your charge sources? and are there any settings you can tell us? Little point installing any batteries if you are just going to fry the next ones.

And when I say I did a rough calculation, I did it using an online prop calculator I used for sizing the prop for my dinghy. http://www.csgnetwork.com/marinepropcalc.html

I did a rough calculation and your pitch will be about 12 - 13 inch based on the information you have provided above. Which would be about right for 9 knots, in a displacement hull with limited weather and current effecting you.

A consumption of about 250grams of diesel a kilowatt hour is a common figure for industrial diesel engines. If you give Wheels the model number and he finds the figures it likely show a more precise figure. Anyway, so if you are using 3.1 litres and we use specific gravity of the fuel of 0.90 [this varies] we get 2.790kg of fuel or 2790 grams. Divide this by 250......2790/250=11.16kw or 14.95hp. Which is pretty close to Darkside's calculation of 14hp.

Good point. I like your polyurathane idea, cheers.

So I have acquired some stainless mast steps that are in great condition, that I want to install on my aluminium mast. I had planned to use Monel rivets [happy for other suggestions] and my questions was....should I use some tefgel on the rivets or something similar? My second and similar question....should I use some tefgel or similar on stainless nut and bots on the new anode I will be sticking on my shaft? Tips and alternative ideas are welcome.

Oh, sorry...I over looked that.

I suspect a few tons of water propelled the liferaft into the windows which were probably glass.

When I click on that link they were all 1270mm wide and I have purchased it off them at 1270mm wide.

Pressure increase, rather than decrease?

http://www.adhesivetechnologies.co.nz/Products/Fabrics/Biaxial/

Thanks guys. I have my new docklines via CRA. Sharp pricing compared to other companies as well.

What scope would you drop your anchor at? Actually, could you describe the technique for stern too in a anchorage like this?

Do any of the main sail makers use Hydranet as standard? and what is the premium?

Cheers guys. So 3 or 8 strand nylon is the go. IT, you mentioned sizing, which haven't considered yet...are there any general guidelines there?

What are they using in place of Methanol in NZ now? Surely its not pure ethanol? Back on the main subject. You didn't mentioned Acetone in the above? I have used this for clean up and it does a great job. Is there a reason you have left this out or is one of the ingredients in the epoxy thinners? or?

What is the general consensus on Dockline rope type and length? A recommended product and outlet would be great to know also.

The battery in your link is rated 120Ah at the 20hr rate. The hour rate is how capacity is measured and at 25 Degrees Celsius and more hours use will give you slightly elevated capacity. A true 120Ah would be rated at the 10hr rate like this battery https://waveinverter.co.nz/shop/deep-cycle-battery/fm120/ Also just something that seems to ring true 'almost' all of the time with common lead acid types, the heavier the battery, the higher the real world no BS capacity. A lighter battery with the same Ah rating is likely to have some marketing/ghost amp hours and we know we can't use thos

It is probably working perfectly. 14.1v is likely its upper setting and 13.3 its lower setting.

With the exception of high drain loads causing high voltage sag. I would still use an AGM [maybe the diesel motors battery] for the windlass and would have very short runs or over sized cables to high current consumers. They can be fussy with charging, as with most new battery types. I really am on the fence about going Lead Carbon or Lithium Iron Phosphate.

Wheels, you know an awful lot. No question! Some of what you are saying above is 100% correct but some of the links you are drawing and examples you are giving sound plausible but but are not correct in physics and that is ultimately the test for anything electrical. I think if you and I got together with a whiteboard and some beers, we would soon easily understand what each other is saying. But continuing this on a forum is pointless as we are looking at this from different levels.