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Crazyhorse last won the day on January 13 2019

Crazyhorse had the most liked content!

About Crazyhorse

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/05/1956

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    Unexplored Northland
  • Interests
    FISHING, Fishing, fishing....and rum.

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  1. If you DONT see dirt on the bog paper there is something wrong! Oil pump not working properly, blockage, clogged filter, capillarising of the oil lines where heat and pressure turns oil into sludge then crystalises. The oil lubricates, cools and also removes dirt (coke) from valve guides etc but a keen eye can work out how much is in the oil and when a change is needed. Water cooling rises faster than oil temperature, so the viscosity of the oil doesn't change as fast reach its full lubrication until the engine and oil are hot. The biggest wear is on startup, so the more you start an idle engine the more the wear. There is no benefit in doing it Wheels. Anyhow, said enough on this subject. Believe it or not. 45 years driving and repairing trucks, I seem to know nothing.
  2. Again I warn about use of synthetic oil. Read my previous posts. A bit of bog paper and your dipstick tells you a lot about oil quality (I think I forgot to mention its best done soon after stopping a hot engine, wipe the dip over the paper and look. It's not an exact science but will give you some idea of dirt). You don't need to go paying for analysing oil unless metal other than normal wear is appearing in it. This running your engine to stop rust...the oil film left on bearings, cylinders etc doesn't evaporate of dissapear over time, it remains unless removed by someone (desludging). There is NO NEED TO RUN AN ENGINE TO MAINTAIN IT. Going down to the boat and running the engine an hour or so is simply adding wear to it. As I have said, if you are laying up for winter or long periods or winter, get the engine hot, shut it down, remove the air cleaner and shove an oily rag in the air intake, also in the crank case breather. Remember to put a note near the starter to let everyone know not to start the engine! A small amount of oil in the rocker cover, remove the rags and put the air cleaner back on and away you go again.
  3. Crazyhorse

    Jump Starters

    "Candle power" is the same when it comes to some Chinese light makers claims!
  4. .....or some banana skins if you are trying to sell the boat..
  5. Found this..interesting. https://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/toilet-paper-oil-filter.html I know the Aussie made filters fitted to a Mack 500hp "super coolpower" engine did an AMAZING JOB. There were two and they held several bog rolls each and about every week we would simply unscrew the stainless steel tube, take it to bin, tip it in and put new rolls in, run the engine a few minutes then top up with oil. These primies were doing on average 2000km a week, some more. Synthetic is certainly the way to go with automotive engines (the blue smoke should dissapear after the engine warms up and oil thickens) but NOT in most marine diesels. As I understand it, the difference is in engine heat. Some marine diesels are designed to run a lot cooler and some turbo chargers also blow their seals with synthetic oil. Going by grade is not a good idea on its own. The manufacturers know. Whitings said to me no synthetic oil for our 2GM20.
  6. Be very careful using synthetic oil. Ow (?w) is a great idea on modern automotive engines as it is basically "water" when you first start up and lubricated quickly (where most engine wear takes place) but it will start leaking out of your seals on some engines which are designed to run on standard 30 weight mineral oil. I ran synthetic in a Isuzu 2.8lt turbo and was very impressive the amount of blue smoke it blue on startup ("mate..I think ya engines phukd"). As it heats, it thickens and never had a problem but was told never put synthetic oil in yanmars. One Mack CH I drove had synthetic in it and it needed big end and crank case seals replaced. Check with your engine manufacturer first! While on this subject, what ever happend to the "lady scott" toilet roll holders? In the 70s, a bright spark in OZ made a filter system that used drop in toilet rolls, lady scott for some reason worked best and Bellway in W.A. fitted all their trucks with them. I remember everyone in the workshop was amazed by the clean oil.
  7. True, got confused it does something to the cylinders over time which from memory it scores the liners as coke builds on the rings. Most (most!) gensets etc don't run 24/7 anyway, mostly on demand. I was told change your throttle settings every few hours.
  8. MORE than 223kts!!!!???
  9. I posted this a while back as this topic pops up again. No dramas about starting and engine after a long time of not running. Been a truckie here and Oz and the worst Worst WORST thing you can do is shoot down to the boat and run the engine a little to "keep it lubricated" every now and then. Just leave the dam thing! It's not going to hurt it one bit. You will soon spot those who do, look for clouds of blue smoke. One thing you should do is stuff a rag into your air intake and sump breather when laying over for a while, do it when the engine is still hot then forget about it. The engine itself will be fine. Once had a chaff cutter on the Grampians Station that had an old flathead Ford V8. Would spend 11 months under a tarp with starlings nesting in it and then would start first time off a bettery. What kills engines is not warming up fast enough under load and reving before the oil has properly lubricated, particularly turbos. A foot note. Oil over time costs a lot less than rebores, rings and valve grinds so when it's getting dirty, change it. A bit of bog paper, wipe the dipstick over it and you can soon see its getting soot in it. Idling engines, particularly diesels is a killer, under running is not good either. If you need to run under full throttle run at full throttle from time to time, clears coaking on the valves. Never run your diesel for hours on the same throttle setting, will glaze the cylinders. Hope that helps?
  10. Going to be a (very!) cold windy day in the Bay!
  11. Crazyhorse

    Jump Starters

    Combined with decompression leavers (if you have them?)
  12. Wind dying now finally but was biblical in BOIs today. 57kts. R Tucker Thomson in here at Assassination Cove along with loads of others battening down the hatches.
  13. Most laptops require 19v DC to run (chip set and CPU power) and as others have stated, the best 12v DC conversion is to run a simple switch mode power supply to get 12v to 19v. Inverters be it pure since wave or square won't create a problem when using a laptops 240v power supply as the filtering is able to handle the ripple but if you are power conscious, go a direct DC to DC converter. Basically it's a oscillator stepping 12v up to 19v using a transformer so better conversion than inverter and converting down. The Chinese are now producing laptops that are true 12v. However the wattage will probably be the same as a 19v unit (more amps) so no real gain. We have gone down this road and there are now USB (5V) PCs available that have dual processors and capable of 1080p HD resolution. They have USB ports so mouse and keyboard can be plugged in and externally powered hard drives run OK. All you do is plug them directly into a HDMI port on a monitor and there are 12v monitors about that can run these. 2ah!
  14. Alternators won't start to produce power below 2000rpm so work out your pulley ratio. Wind gennys are great when a cyclone is about, all other times a lot of noise and nothing at the other end so SPs are the way to go and good storage for rainy days.
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