Frank

You will be denied entry into the marina without insurance which will in turn require a recent survey which will at least document the faults but possibly mean it cant be insured, rinse- wash- repeat.

Gotcha, thx !

Agreed !

I did a search on the forums and couldn't find what I was after so apologies in advance if this topic has been done to death already. So we are planning to cruise Fiji and vanuatu from May and have been considering the anchor situation. Our boat came with a 25 kg Delta daily use anchor and four spares ie a massive fishermans pick, A Bruce , A Fortress (Danforth style) and a genuine large Danforth. The Fortress and the Fishermans pick can be disassembled for stowage. We are thinking of 1. Removing the Fortress, fisherman's pick and standard Danforth. 2. Substituting a 25

Thanks, and I get the impression the Silicone sealants are inherently resistant to hydrocarbons but for sure its not the case with polyurethanes (but maybe some will be) I happen to have some dowsill 795 structural glazing adhesive which is used to glue panes of glass to skyscrapers, on that basis I am sure it has high adhesive strength. so I might look into that as an option. According to mr Google It seems diesel is quite a complex brew of chemicals " Diesel fuels are complex mixtures of alkanes, cycloalkanes and aromatic hydrocarbons with carbon numbers in the range of C9–C28 and wi

Seeking answers from the brains trust here ! does anyone know of a sealant that is resistant to diesel ? Burnsco checked with Sikaflex and they advised that none of their products were suitable. I think some Silicone based products may be OK but I would like something with more adhesion, typically a moisture curing polyethylene type product , I will check with Bostik as well. Chrs

I presume it dragged its anchor or did it truly come off a Mooring ?, there is only a few in Home bay to the north ?

Pla eeeese ! the Tornado hit Dannemora we don't get Tornados in Howick, wrong area code

Vesconite is good stuff, as I understand it most engineering plastics will swell to some extent in water, Vesconite (trade name ? ) is one of the few that doesn't. I used oil impregnated Nylon for my first DIY rudder bearings it froze the rudder rock solid in a few weeks. I vaguely recall a few years back you could purchase a pourable graphite impregnated epoxy resin and cast perfect bearings with the rudder in situ, don't know if its still a thing.

I would be doing the quick and dirty as LBD describes above, any of the epoxy/metal powder products such as JB weld or similar should do the trick, Chatfield engineering probably have bronze key stock and you can buy SS key stock at ANZOR in east tamaki. Then at a convenient time I would take it to a machine shop to bush the tiller head as described.

Re Selektope, if the picture in the advertising is anything to go by it could be the silver bullet, we have had many false dawns though.

its clearly a stunt double

No but my wife is

+1 for all of Dr Watsons points, the NRC/NDC seem to be quite assertive in policing environmental concerns with boats, e.g last two trips to the BOI they checked on my boats holding tank status but I have never encountered this cruising the Hauraki Gulf. I think once you are living full time on the boat you should expect to come under scrutiny sooner rather than later, not to say It cant be done but I would do your homework on the compliance picture first.

I'm not a fan of worms, sorry

Ya gotta love imperial and metric mixes, camera worked well and showed all clear, have since run the motor and all good, yes its unreal how far a dropped fastener can travel.

Thanks all, I made a vacuum tube as described and tested it on a spare wing nut, it easily latched on from any angle so long as it got within 2 or 3 mm however after many attempts fishing around with it I came up zero so I looked around the engine itself which is in tight space and found it by feel tucked into a groove between the engine bed and the compartment sidewall. I assumed it had gone down the intake but seemingly not. Now I just have to figure if it is the correct one or another that was lost by a previous owner, I might get a USB camera today as a final check before starting the en

The topic of importing boats is well covered elsewhere on the forums, but there are many possible pitfalls and costs behind the sticker price.

Has the owner aid GST and Import duty ? this is how we got fanworm.

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear, I think the wing nut is SS so not magnetic.

Replacing perkins 4108 Air Filter, dropped the capping wing nut down the intake, accident waiting to happen and it did. I tried magnets on wires etc to no avail I guess the next stage is to take the manifold off but what are the chances it has gone further and the head has to come off ? I suppose its about he dia of a 20 cent piece maybe bigger. Any engine gurus out there I would appreciate your help , even if it is not want I want to hear, bloody Murphy has been a constant companion lately F**k it.

Spider Man's yacht sank ?

That's a sweet design with great bones on the flip side while its hard to tell from a picture the sails look tired, and the age of the rigging is indeterminable. The auxiliary is a Bukh diesel which will be the original engine most likely, so its near 50 ys old and sea water cooled. Hard to say if it is the 10 hp single cyl or the 20 hp twin, but probably the former and underpowered by today's standard, I suspect they have been out of production for a few years. ( Yes I know I'm a glass half full guy, mea culpa ! but I cant help being a realist, I would have brought her in a flash when I wa

"Hiscock. Bloody autocorrect." LOL,I was trying to figure that one out Oh and for a certain Yoda- like obsessive traditionalist , 0 hp per ton but don't mention the "Tows" 10 points to the first person who can guess the identity.

Those microbursts are crazy seen some wacky ones in the med too