1paulg

At the home show I enquired about a suppliers brand being suitable for marine use and was told that particular brand wasn't recommended so I assumed there may be a difference - possibly with the sealing of the connectors but maybe that person didn't really know ?!

Good question - another thing - would the wiring be suitable for marine environments?

I found isailor v good in Fiji -espec the Lau Group where Navionics was out considerably -enough to put you on the reef going thru passes if you werent aware it was out (obviously always have a spotter on deck too) .

My BEP unit failed - wouldn't switch the solenoid off - but that's electronic gadgetry I guess . Sometimes they go for ever - sometimes not ! Replaced with the same unit

If the chafe is limited to just a few specific areas you can do what we did and bind the Dyneema with some thin strips of leather hide then tape to keep in place. I did that where the main battens hit the inners and has worked fine for 3 years now

Lol hopefully not !!!!

I have an Airmar unit - been really good until just recently but that was due to a connection issue in the wiring which was relatively simple to fix however since then my SOG and boat speed seem at a little variance besides that all good. In regards to roll - my unit is on a Cat so prob ideal

KM - think your are right - it is the resin that breaks down. I have a carbon rig that is 10 yrs old and painted white and looks mint - if it is an item that is easy to redo and you want bling then clear cote is fine but for bigger items like a rig I wouldn't take the chance..

Interesting - is that as UV resistant to the underlying carbon as opposed to putting a 2 pot white on ?

I have found both marine carpet and rubber tubbing trap dirt and mark the cockpit floor which then requires a really good scrub to get it back to original condition which defeats its purpose even though it is nicer under foot

Presumably any foreign buyer will still have local taxes to pay when they bring the boat to their home country and will "allow" for that when making an offer

Presumably you are keeping the boat in Brisbane for use Andrew - or are you thinking of selling her over there? Good to hear your trip over went well

I was told that because the regulations are so stringent that few gas fitters are interested in doing work on boats - mainly because they can be called out for what seems a small issue to fix and when they step aboard if they see anything that isn't compliant with the gas set up they are bound to point it out and make a point to see that it is bought up to current regulation standard . What that means is what originally seemed like a small job can end up having to spend thousands . Ironically it may well be pushing people to do their own work in areas that they may not be experienced which th

Nyalic when it breaks down is a nightmare to deal with as well.

I would be very surprised if a L 42 would achieve 16knts in 23 kn winds speed unless there was a considerable push from a swell. That looks far too lively - the boat would need to be a lot lighter than a production Lagoon 42 to be doing that I would have thought.

If you are getting it just for Marina liability there arent really any Marinas in Vanuatu where I thought that would be an issue - just a wall to tie up to Med style in Vila.. New Cal (Noumea) you can always anchor out and go in just for fuel ... I f you are wanting it for peace of mind that is different but for actual liability risks they could be minimal..

Am sure there are many more qualified than me to comment but this is how I did my first one....break the seal with a Stanley knife blade being careful to just cut the sealant , push the window up from inside peeling it away , clean up both surfaces ( window and recess ) , mask around the window ( important as it is very easy to smudge and make a mess with the sealant. Get a self adhesive rubber sealant strip ( like a fridge seal) cut in half so is only quite thin then put on the hig edge of the recess to make a dam for the sealant , put a good line of sealant in the recess then press the windo

Scottie - I am in the process of redoing some of mine - you will find the screw holes are on top of the bed of sealant and it will push up into the holes as you press the panel into place - then just finish off by carefully wiping the excess with a wet rag or finger and it seals the hole quite nicely and doesn't look out of place . You are welcome to come and have a look at the one I have done (which will be followed by a few more !) if you want to see how it comes out.

Usually these days with acrylic windows they fit into a recess . Using a bed of marine sealant - there are several types ( Sika have one product) , it should seal and secure the window adequately to not have to use screws . Modern sealants are very strong and using screws is likely to cause stress points in the acrylic .

If anyone needs it is available in exchange for small contribution to retest or rum

Agree IT above example looks tidy however always though it would be a hassle having a U.S. Boat with 110 v - people say just use an inverter but if / when anything needs replacing a slight hassle.

Hopefully there will enough interest for a repeat evening as I would def be interested

I would be a starter for auck if it was after end of August ( overseas beforehand)

Kilwell do fiberglass and carbon rods ....

If using phosphoric or oxalic acid for stains on gel coat don't leave on too long and wash thoroughly after - I always give a good wax after to protect the gel coat as the acid seems to make the gel coat a little more porous after - especially if the gel coat isn't in great condition to start with ...that way you help prevent the stains re-occurring ...