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Posts posted by DrWatson

  1. 10 hours ago, Black Panther said:

    Sad truth is the majority of NZers are innumerate. I had a doc tell me there was a " less than 1 in 10,000 chace of dying from this procedure ". Then 10 minutes later say the chance of dying was "less than 1%". I replied my chance of dying just increased 100 fold. He looked at me like I was crazy. 

    Yeah, among some of the most worrying I've met have sadly been quite a few medical Drs. A couple of years ago I have to explain to a hepatic surgeon the difference between median and mean. And I struggled to find a GP here who would take a rational diagnostic approach - plenty of other just write the script (or give you nothing) saying "it's probably this" (based entirely on a loose probability) "come back in two weeks if it hasn't got better". 



  2. 9 hours ago, chariot said:

    Would it not be better to have a 100mm tilt panel, then frame the inside with 150x45 timber frame which would allow for ample insulation and a still air space to run all the services. You would probably end up with less wall thickness.


    Easier? Certainly. Cheaper? Likely. Desired interior/exterior finishes? No. 


    Better? Certainly not. The whole point of using concrete is to have the thermal mass on the inside. Otherwise, why use concrete at all?

    In the approach I propose above the tiltslab is saving on one side of the formwork costs - although you have to create it in the first place, and means you can have a board form exterior finish (or any other concrete finish you like) by planking under the tiltslab formwork. It's the finished exterior cladding. It's not load bearing, so the tiltslab itself would only need engineering to the level necessary to hold itself onto the wall ties and support it's own structural integrity. 

    Other approaches for cladding would be brick in place of the tiltslab (but I don't like brick), strapped board and batten (see below) or to even do a double wall in situ pour - Boxing up the internal wall, followed by applying the insulation on the exterior face, between the ties that were already cast into the first wall, then boxing up the exterior and pouring that. But the risk of that approach is the possibility of a poor exterior finish (bubbles, poor vib etc.). Using the bottom surface of the tiltslab as the exterior face should mean you can more-or-less avoid bubbles and get a nicer surface, no? 

    One could use strapping and weatherboards on the exterior, but the R-value penalty for strapping is considerable, meaning considerably thicker (more expensive) insulation. Additionally, you then need to fix the strapping to the concrete (additional fixings cost), add a vapour barrier etc, and you have to use a much higher grade of timber (and fixings) for cladding than you would for boxing. Finally, you have the additional longterm costs of maintaining (even painting or preserving) a wooden facade, and the considerably expected shorter life time. 



  3. On 15/08/2020 at 9:34 AM, It Got said:

    The other day you wrote off 1% as a nothing, insignificant, not even worthy of even commenting on yet today you think 0.0000008% is that significant it is worthy of comment.

    Does that show how smart marketing can trump basic math? I think so.


    Not getting involved in the discussion. Just a point about significance from a statistical theory perspective.

    Significance is something that can be defined by hypotheses, and then tested, and is not only about the %. It depends massively on the data size, and the actual spread of data, the magnitudes of the variable being assessed. 

    So 1% difference can be insignificant, or significant. Likewise, 0.0000008% difference can also be significant or not significant, and apparently these two values quoted are for different variables so there is no relationship between one being significant and the other not. Significance is irrespective of the effect of that difference outcome. 

    I battle with this every day in my job. Some people wanting to call a 1 month change in life expectancy or disease free progression, significant, when it's not, for example. It's just Stats, but because many people are terrified of statistics, many people don't get the subtleties, and therefore they are massively and erroneously exploited. Like National's claim to have lifted the "average wage" massively (all the while the median wage was getting worse...) 


    But think this, add 10° to a 30° day - it's a 33% increase, and makes 40° and it's damn hot but you don't die.  Now add another 10°, it's 50°, it's only a 25% increase but you're gonna die.



  4. OK, here's a further question, and yes I appreciate this is a sailing forum, but there's a large amount of other knowledge here.

    Has anyone used thinnish (75mm) tilt slabs, poured onsite with fibreglass ties, stood them up as the ext. cladding, stuck insulating panels on the inside and then used that as one side of the formwork to then pour a structural wall (with the glass ties being used right through the internal form work)?

    Kind of like the scheme below?





  5. 2 minutes ago, Jon said:

    He’s obviously in good spirits

    Single handed sailors seem always to be glass half full people 

    Heres his latest blog

    The call of the kea

    Tue Sep 15 2020

    Sitting on a mooring in Deepwater Basin. It is incredibly quiet and still. The only sound the burbling of my caveman TV ( the Dickinson diesel stove) and high up in the mist the call of a kea. I will be here for three or four days as the weather pattern is going to stay the same until a NW change later in the week. I will wait for my spare autopilot to arrive and repair some main sail slugs that broke right out of the track. There was an awful lot of sail flogging going on at times when the boat rounded up on the big waves. I am going to have a long hot shower, put some clean clothes on, eat a decent meal and toast my feet in front of the fire. As Ratty said to Mole: “There’s simply nothing half as much fun as messing around in boats”.

    I think it’s well more than half full :)

  6. I think the owner had taken the lens cover off to replace thh bulb.. and were simply not up to the task of recapitulating it's original orientation. Frightening, nonetheless.

    I've no experience with French cars other than with an old 205 driven by a girl from Paris... the wiring was the least of my worries..


  7. Well, I put the whole project into that Design Navigator calculator, and using reasonable insulation on the walls, floor and roof, we easily meet the energy requirements, given the current glazing % (1286 W/°C for reference 682 W/°C for this design - must look up that unit...).

    In fact, we would still meet it (just) even if we used single pane safety glass.

    Caveat - I wasn't able to include for calculation a thermal break (or not) for the cantilevered balconies which account for some 50% of the upstairs wall area...

  8. 8 minutes ago, DaveNoy said:

    Standard Nz solution is set down the whole balcony the 100mm and then use tile jacks to lift up floating tiles to level with the inside.

    https://www.tilewarehouse.co.nz/tile-ranges/pro-jack-tile-system/. Many brands, just the first link on google.

    Thermal bridge is a bit harder, but not too much of an issue since the Northand generally averages close to comfortable (no snow like Europe).


    looks complex but seems to work well with tiles. Could also do it with timber, I guess. But if you just wanted concrete?

    Yeah Northland is pretty warm, but Winter nights are still 5-8 degrees, with the odd one down around 0°. Maybe we can obviate the need to use thermal breaks if we go hard elsewhere? would likely lead to cold floors around the wall though...


  9. 10 hours ago, chariot said:

    There is a web site called Design Navigator which is very good. You can swap all your different R values around to suit for various construction elements and get an instant calculation to confirm compliance with NZBC H1/AS1 using either the calculation method or the schedule method. 

    It used to be free but I think there is a fee attatched now.

    Cool, yeah I've been using that Design Navigator Website to determine the approximate R values of different construction etc. The calculation is free, but you pay 30 bucks to download the report. Which seems fair. You only download once you're happy with the outcome. 

    12 hours ago, Ex Babe said:

    You certainly can Dr Watson.

    What you have there is the schedule method from NZS 4218:2009 4.1. If you use those R values the building is deemed to comply. You can use the calculation method from NZS 4218:2009 4.2 which allows up to 50% total glazing glazing or the modeling method from NZS 4218:2009 4.3 which allows as much glazing as you like. Both rely on doing exactly as you suggest and require you to increase the floor and/or wall and/or ceiling insulation to compensate for the increased glazing area.   

    The calculation method requires calculations to demonstrate that the heat loss for the proposed dwelling using the proposed areas and R values will be less than the same design using the R values from the schedule method. The calculations should be a doddle for a man of your education.

    The modeling method requires to to show the annual heating load and cooling load of the proposed dwelling will be less than the same design using the schedule method. This requires specific software. There are a number of programs available. 

    Just remember the R values specified are completed construction insulation R values which are often less but can be more than the R value of the insulation product installed.  

    Clause H of the New Zealand Building Code is not about insulation per se it is about energy efficiency. 

    Nice. It looks like we're just under the 50% at the moment, so the calculators will be running hot (well, maybe the cells in my Xcel spreadsheet...)

    I do have a few interesting areas to consider, however. 

    Canter levered balconies, so a bit of concrete which is more-or-less and extension of the floor. We'd like to have essentially level access, from balcony to house, so we'll need some kind of covered drain/gutter, but also how would one insulate that slab so there's no thermal bridge?

    I've seen these Isokorb things used here in Switzerland. Are they used in NZ? They appear fearfully expensive... (500nzd per section perhaps 800 wide?)




  10. hmmmm, that might turn out quite tricky under a number of international treaties... 

    Preventing a citizen of another country from leaving yours (permanent resident) might be seen as arbitrary detention...

  11. 3 hours ago, Thắt nút tôi ..... có thể said:

    Am I looking at a Honda SL125 there Doc???

    Actually an SL100, I believe even rarer than the 125, and the up-pipe model was even rarer I'm led to believe, only being sold in AUS/NZ? I saw a NOS replacement pipe on the inter-web for 1500...
    This one has been bored out before my time to about 133cc (pretty much as far as one can go). But I've got a NOS Bore and piston/ring set to "restore" it.

    I've gradually become aware of it's value in the last few years. I did have a CB550K3 + 2 spare motors parked next to it for many years in the Old Man's shed, but gave that away about 10 y ago to someone building a collection/museum. I was given the SL by my English teacher in 5th form. It was rust seized and had been "stored" under a hedge. I got her moving and eventually running as an enthusiastic 16y old - complementing my TS125. Added a mint A100 for $50 bucks at some stage.


    Don't worry, I'll not be throwing this one in the bin.


  12. This old girl is sitting in my shed. Had her about 30y now, I guess... I even rode her over Thompson's Track, many many moons ago. I guess I'll drag her out and freshen her up a little at some point. Photos are not great, but she's mostly complete, except for the saddle, speedo and tailight lens. Not for sale at this time, unfortunately, but still a contribution to the thread.



  13. 3 minutes ago, idlerboat said:

    Have you considered stabilised rammed earth ? You get great thermal mass and its an interesting medium to build in. (not so good for cantilever sections or such, : )

    ( ps , if your glazing was high end double or triple glazed would there be a problem ? )

    rammed earth is interesting, but the design requires the strength of concrete. We'd have to truck in the earth as well. We do have a lot of stone, and a stone mason in the family, but it's not noted for meeting seismic regs...

    I was under the impression that good triple glazing with Argon etc, still only gets you to about R 0.5, so still well short of the required wall rating. but i just found this, below, which appears to contradict that...


  14. So we're starting to get our Architect (not NZ based) to throw a few ideas around for our house up North. She's a concrete girl from Detroit, and that suits us fine. She's sketching concepts and we'll get a NZ architect to adjust/moderate/ work with her for NZ.

    Given the site, and the outlook, were looking at some quite large areas of glass and opening doors etc. on the Northern and Western sides. More or less 100% of both sides. But of course this flies in the face of the <=30% area rule when working out energy efficiency. Does anyone know if you can exceed this 30% rule if you "over compensate" in other areas like much higher R values on your glazing, walls and ceiling etc., and build in sufficient thermal mass (concrete construction, remember)?

    We're Zone 1, so if you exceed the below for can you extend the % of glass? let's say (just some numbers from a calculator for diff. construction and insulation All relatively easy to achieve.) And I know it likely relies on a bunch of other things, but, nonetheless, just wondering if it's possible to exceed the 30% (we're at about 49% at the moment...)

    walls at R 3.0,
    glass at R 0.4,
    roof at R 4.0,
    floor at R 3.7




  15. 5 hours ago, Knot Me... maybe said:

    You can do that in the EU, in the UK, in the US, in Aussie and even in many Pac Islands.

    Isn't much of the appeal NZ coastlines have due to them being a bit empty?

    Also what damage would the infrastructure do to some of those places? It's not like sweeping a few rocks out the way and you don't need much imagination to know if you rolled a bulldozer on to Barrier just to make some 0.1%ers lives more convenient what sort of a sh*t storm it would create. 

    We have Waiheke and that's fast becoming a weekend and wine infused shopping centre for the far from poor or those not doing it hard. I think keeping all those types confined in a smallish space like Waiheke is the best thing for NZ and the planet. Those that would prefer the likes of Med style cruzing, what in NZ is the equivalent of backpacking from the Sheraton to the Hilton,  do tend to have the wherewithal to buy a couple of air tickets making the Med less than 24hrs away.

    Fair enough, the last thing I was thinking of (or wanting to see) is "breaking new ground" so to say in pristine bays to keep 0.01%ers happy. Rather, places that already have reasonable infrastructure - at least a wharf or a little village onshore.

    Tryphena, Fitzroy, Bon accord, Tuts, Russel, Waiheke is already there etc...


  16. 14 hours ago, Knot Me... maybe said:

    The Pizza and Pad Thai were in a wee city called Bern during a unexpected over night stop. I bet the Wa can still name the establishments, she's a bit freaky like that. I shall ask her.

    AHhh, well Bern is going to be one of those "top five most expensive places on the continent" .... I mean it's Switzerland...

    Pad Thai - Thai food in Switzerland is notoriously expensive :( Sushi is also on my "too pricey" list. Surprised at the pizza cost though.



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