Jump to content

Vorpal Blade

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    713
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Vorpal Blade last won the day on October 12 2019

Vorpal Blade had the most liked content!

About Vorpal Blade

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. A well set up system will make your life easy. Our main is around 50sqm and its a one person op to both hoist and stow, and when you put in a reef it controls all the loose sail.
  2. What you are describing is more or less an automotive headlining material. Typically a textured vinyl fabric bonded to a layer of foam 2-3mm thick. I have a bloody big carton of swatches in the workshop, if I find some spare time I will have a dig through and see what I can find.
  3. The new stuff is water based, low pressure, no odour, and probably both vegan and gluten free but not cheap . Smelliest thing about interior linings is the person that is next to you helping get it all stuck to the surfaces before the glue tacks off.
  4. I hate the stuff but I recommend tear off and replace at about 5 years before any mould etc can start to colonise. The old glue on the boat is the issue. Easiest is tear it down and just put up more of the same.The 5kg canister spray glues I use are not that horrible inside a boat. You saw what i went thru got get the VB interior fur-free and glossy painted inside, major improvement but hours, and hours, and hours.
  5. What about sanding a small recess where the join is.
  6. When you have finished varnishing it take it to someone to make a fitted cover for it, then install tiller on the boat - much cheaper than having someone go to the boat and measure/make.
  7. As I understand it the pivot points for the foils are set in the class rules and are a specified distance (+/- 10mm or so from the centreline) or something like that, so in comparing all of the hull shapes take it that the foil pivots are almost in the same place relative to the centreline. Theres some fatties and some slimmies, its going to be interesting.
  8. There was minimal damage to the boat. We alwasys recommend what Chariot said about the wedges to tighten the boat up against the uprights. Do not pull the cradle arms into the hull as this unloads the diagonal bracing and the boat will fall over sideways. A good keel guide to get you into the channel properly is useful, as is a stop so you put the centre of gravity in the centre of the cradle. It really helps to know the underwater geometry of the boat, particularly if the bottom edge of the keel is not horizontal. Multis on the other hand don't have this problem.
  9. Keel not in channel and owner has just realised.... then the tide goes out a bit.... and it all turns to carp The port side cradle arms couldn't hold the boat upright and collapsed.
  10. I do a lot of haulouts on cradles like yours at Little Shoal Bay, the biggest mistake we see is a mismatch between the gunwale dimensions and where the cradle arms are set.
  11. https://cardwells.co.nz/rod-ends.html
  12. Thats largely what I did except I spliced them into a loop so they can't fall off.
  13. I haven't got pics but I will sketch it up.
  14. The T bar (or bunny ears) is what you usually put the tack rings onto at the gooseneck
×
×
  • Create New...