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NZTiger

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Posts posted by NZTiger

  1. I've just moved to a 4 stroke, 10hp, ultra long shaft outboard for our GBE catamaran. 

    It's outstanding in the chop, doesn't seem to cavitate at all, and is two cylinders so a bit quieter than a 2 stroke.  Unfortunately, it weighs about 45kg which is quite a handful getting in and out of the outboard pod.  I'm 6 foot 4 and it's probably the limit to what I could manage (needs to be a one person job because two people get in the way of each other if they're both trying to do it at once).  I think I can make it easier by adding some shoulder carrying straps to the motor, but it's not for the feint hearted.  I think it would be even more difficult getting it on and off an outboard bracket mounted on the stern of the boat - so you might want to consider that aspect.

    For me, if there was a 2 stroke, ultra long shaft motor, between 8 to 10hp, I would jump at it.  I would happily sacrifice the quietness of the 4 stroke for the weight savings of the 2 stroke. (Also, in my experience, two strokes can be neglected a bit more than four strokes).

    I've happily used a long shaft, 6hp, four stroke in the past which gets the boat along nicely when there's no wind, but we need to consider what happens when we're pushing into rough conditions and there's an issue with the rigging which means sailing is not an option (which happened to us last year) and motoring out of trouble is the only choice left.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. My youtube sailing diet is pretty much based around channels where the people sail and are poorly funded - their challenges and the way they resolve them are usually insightful and educational. There are plenty of channels showing people in 50 foot sailing catamarans in exotic places looking for photo/video fodder who mostly motor around and can't be bothered going to windward in their floating block of flats.

    I cover Sam Holmes, Adventures of an old sea dog, Free range sailing (when they used to sail), and some Norwegian bloke whose name I can't pronounce.

    I've learned bits and pieces from them all, particularly maintenance and DIY skills.  The first two I wouldn't join on a sailing adventure if it went further than swimming distance from the beach.  The other guys have professional levels of seamanship which I also learn from.

     

     

    • Upvote 2
  3. 21 hours ago, Sudden5869 said:

    BBYC sometimes uses Navy Buoy on Harbour Courses.  We used it about three weeks ago.  There was an inflatable round buoy instead of the old steel barrel buoy.   Not exactly easy to see... We just assumed it was a temporary measure to repair the old Navy Buoy.  It had been getting rustier and lower in the water lately.... 

    Sometimes?!?!  8 out of 19 on the course sheet.   That buoy is the cornerstone of BBYC harbour races!  If we lose this one and northern leading yellow, we'd have no valid courses (joking).

    • Haha 2
  4. The freight forwarder/shipping agent will get in touch with you prior to the shipment arriving in New Zealand.  You'll need to apply for a customs number (not an onerous task) and then provide some identification details to customs.   You'll need to pay GST and any duty (via credit card is the best way).

    This link should help you get the gist of it.

    https://www.customs.govt.nz/personal/send-and-receive-items/receive-items-from-overseas/

    It's not particularly arduous and can be completed in it's entirety from behind the comfort of your keyboard.

    (Not an expert but have done the process myself)

    Cheers,

    Justin

    • Upvote 1
  5. On 20/05/2022 at 6:19 PM, DBLRUM said:

    I got a brand new main for my Cavalier 26 approx 3 years ago through Brent Gillies at BG Sails in East Tamaki, Auckland. He outsourced it to Hydes in London who I believe have their loft in the Phillipines. I received a fantastic sail with awesome stitching which is still going strong and still looks like new several years later for approx 2 thirds of the price quoted in NZ.

    If you're in Half Moon Bay definitely have a chat with Brent at BG Sails.  For me he's done a great job in specifying sail requirements that matter to me without shoving the latest and greatest tech down my throat (my requirements are for robust performance including simplicity and longevity as opposed to peak performance at all costs).  He has years of experience and loves a good chat!!

    Through outsourcing the construction overseas he provides competitive prices while being available locally to resolve any issues and back up the product.  Fairly long lead times at present (I have a new main coming soon which has taken about 3 months), but that applies to so many things right now.  

    • Upvote 1
  6. At the online race clinic last night, they covered some draft plans for a virtual Cat3 inspection and possible temporary extension for recently expired certs.  It will certainly help to avoid the mad rush that will occur when we come out of lockdown.

    • Upvote 3
  7. I had organised my boat to come out of the water on the 8th of September to do some final Cat 3 tasks, but this is not going to happen given what has just been announced.

    As I understand it, at level 3 I can row out to it as it's moored within 200m of the shore, but I can't move it from its mooring until Level 2.

    Purchasing stuff (particularly electrical bits & pieces) is proving very challenging under level 4.

  8. 2 hours ago, MartinRF said:

    I use nothing.

    The trick is to realize there is no need for a very tight fit and apart from the exit hole in the bottom of the hull the fit can be quite sloppy. For support higher up in the dagger board case you can use synthetic carpet material or astroturf to take up the slop and avoid noise. I use this both top and bottom in my rudder sleeves. Adding a wear protecting 'rail' (my English failed me) to the rear of the dagger board case is nice as that edge of the board can be a bit 'aggressive'.

    Rudder sleeve seen here:

    http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/pages/index.html

    /Martin

     

    Thanks Martin.  I haven't used anything so far and haven't really needed to.  However, It does give me grief when the boat is going fast and we need to slow it down to raise the windward board - so I thought i'd see what others are doing.

  9. Mainly for the catamaran crowd but i'm sure the issue crops up on trailer-sailers and boats with similar solutions for extending and retracting appendages.  

    After a few casual conversations I'm getting some mixed advice on ways to ensure daggerboards slide in their cases well.  There seems to be a few camps: 

    - Don't use anything

    - Silicone

    - Grease or the like 

    - Some exotic concoction that i've never heard of

    I'd be keen to hear what other sailors use and how you go about applying it correctly.  I'm wanting to keep it environmentally friendly.

  10. 14 hours ago, Ed said:

    Might be able to get cat 3, could out the coastal record even further out of reach

    Only until we figure out how to foil within the 8.5m multi rule.

  11. Would there be any merit in starting the smaller boats and slower divisions on the Thursday night before?  I understand that that would essentially result in two races as the differing start times would experience completely different conditions, but so be it.

  12. 1 hour ago, boots said:

    First thing is does the winch turn? If it doesn't the aluminum drum on the inside will have a stainless steel sleeve, then roller bearings and another stainless steel sleeve. The dissimilar metals of Ali and SS cause corrosion swelling the outside sleeve to seize the rollers. If it is seized put the winch in a small bucket of diesel. Then the hard part starts. Let us know if it is seized?

    Two winches.  One was turning well and the other was corroded badly.  We used an impact driver to unscrew it allowing drum removal (with dual crowbars).  We gave all the pieces a solvent bath and scrub down.  We sand blasted the internal mechanism (not sure what it's called) to remove corroded material and then wiped down and applied lubricant.  Both appear to now work well, but I haven't installed them back on the boat as yet.

    Cost me a bottle of single malt which is more than a fair price, I reckon.

  13. Can anyone advise the correct technique for removing the drum from the winch in the attached photograph?  I'm about to try some brute force and ignorance, but thought I'd throw it open to the experts first.

     

    Maxwell 16.jpg

  14. 2 hours ago, Adrianp said:

    We brought a second hand Delta dingy earlier this year and they are great little dinghies that tick a lot of those boxes. 3m long so should fit within your spot. Rows well (even has foot braces) and sails nicely. 

    They are pretty lite too and seem robust as there are heaps of them around once you start looking. Our was $850 and in great condition. 

     

     

     

    I concur with Adrianp.  I've owned one of these for about four years.  I use it as a tender for my yacht and also for sailing off the beach up north over summer.

    I keep my yacht on a mooring and wanted something that had enough weight and steerage to work in about 20 knots of wind and Tamaki river chop.  I also wanted one that I could launch by myself in those on-shore type conditions without any risk or difficulty.  It has enough freeboard to handle adverse weather or to be loaded with sailing gear (not both).

    It's quite heavy, so if you wanted to lift it up onto the deck of your yacht, you'd need some method of doing this - particularly by itself.  I usually leave mine attached to the mooring when we go sailing.

    It sails quite well - given that it doesn't have a headsail.

    Cheers,

    Justin

     

     

  15. With the marina extension at Half Moon Bay limiting opportunities for haulout and time on the hardstand for a few months, I'm interested in alternative options in the Auckland area.

    Anyone have good recommendations for Auckland based multihull haulout options that are available to the general public?  ( I don't have a cradle )

  16. 3 hours ago, ex TL systems said:

    To make it easier picking up solo you can put the bouy beside the cockpit and connect a line already prepared from the bow to the bouy rope. Then pull it in from the bow. Make sure the bouy rope is solid and maintained   Or a light line with a small grapple to throw over and pick up a short floating rope tied to a second bouy.   Once you are connected from the bow pulling up the main rope shouldn’t be hard. At my Pole mooring if it looks difficult conditions I sometimes anchor beside it then row a rope across then just pull myself over and pick up the anchor once settled   And reverse when leaving if conditions are difficult. Prefer to take my time than end up drifting into another boat 

    I concur.  I wouldn't go with the large style buoys as the arrangement can grind against your boat while moored in rough conditions (i'm told this can be mitigated).  My cat is a complete pig to control at slow speed and so I use the following strategy..

    My mooring is a standard setup with two buoys on the top rope.  I use a detachable snubbing hook which clips onto an extendable pole.  The hook is tied to a line which extends from the bow all the way around the outside of the boat and back to the cockpit on one hull.  I pull up alongside the buoy and connect the hook (automatic release under tension from the pole) to the buoy or top rope and can then pull the rope from the front until the main rope of the buoy is ready to be attached to the boat.   This works solo in howling wind and chop - with no stress.   If I miss, I can go round for another try.  Given you are approaching the buoy from the side, you have zero chance of running it over and tangling everything up in the prop.  You can also position a block and line running from the temporary hook line back to a winch somewhere on your boat so you could winch yourself in effortlessly and danger free in 50 knots if necessary.

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