Jump to content

NZTiger

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by NZTiger

  1. 2 hours ago, Adrianp said:

    We brought a second hand Delta dingy earlier this year and they are great little dinghies that tick a lot of those boxes. 3m long so should fit within your spot. Rows well (even has foot braces) and sails nicely. 

    They are pretty lite too and seem robust as there are heaps of them around once you start looking. Our was $850 and in great condition. 

     

     

     

    I concur with Adrianp.  I've owned one of these for about four years.  I use it as a tender for my yacht and also for sailing off the beach up north over summer.

    I keep my yacht on a mooring and wanted something that had enough weight and steerage to work in about 20 knots of wind and Tamaki river chop.  I also wanted one that I could launch by myself in those on-shore type conditions without any risk or difficulty.  It has enough freeboard to handle adverse weather or to be loaded with sailing gear (not both).

    It's quite heavy, so if you wanted to lift it up onto the deck of your yacht, you'd need some method of doing this - particularly by itself.  I usually leave mine attached to the mooring when we go sailing.

    It sails quite well - given that it doesn't have a headsail.

    Cheers,

    Justin

     

     

  2. 3 hours ago, ex TL systems said:

    To make it easier picking up solo you can put the bouy beside the cockpit and connect a line already prepared from the bow to the bouy rope. Then pull it in from the bow. Make sure the bouy rope is solid and maintained   Or a light line with a small grapple to throw over and pick up a short floating rope tied to a second bouy.   Once you are connected from the bow pulling up the main rope shouldn’t be hard. At my Pole mooring if it looks difficult conditions I sometimes anchor beside it then row a rope across then just pull myself over and pick up the anchor once settled   And reverse when leaving if conditions are difficult. Prefer to take my time than end up drifting into another boat 

    I concur.  I wouldn't go with the large style buoys as the arrangement can grind against your boat while moored in rough conditions (i'm told this can be mitigated).  My cat is a complete pig to control at slow speed and so I use the following strategy..

    My mooring is a standard setup with two buoys on the top rope.  I use a detachable snubbing hook which clips onto an extendable pole.  The hook is tied to a line which extends from the bow all the way around the outside of the boat and back to the cockpit on one hull.  I pull up alongside the buoy and connect the hook (automatic release under tension from the pole) to the buoy or top rope and can then pull the rope from the front until the main rope of the buoy is ready to be attached to the boat.   This works solo in howling wind and chop - with no stress.   If I miss, I can go round for another try.  Given you are approaching the buoy from the side, you have zero chance of running it over and tangling everything up in the prop.  You can also position a block and line running from the temporary hook line back to a winch somewhere on your boat so you could winch yourself in effortlessly and danger free in 50 knots if necessary.

  3. Nice work,

    I did exactly the same trip 3 years ago when I picked up my GBE.  It was moored right next to your proa in the Taipa river at the time and we sailed it back to Auckland.  Had to motor about 90% of the way due to a lack of wind, which was excruciating to say the least.  Good times though. It's a stunning stretch of NZ coastline to see in person.

    Picture attached of my son "helping" me with the planning.

    Cheers,

    Justin

    IMG_0885.JPG

  4. Just wondering if there is a best practice setup for the jib car on an 8.5 multi.  If anyone is keen to post a picture or diagram of the setup on their multi, I'd really appreciate it.

     

    Minor adjustments seem to make a massive difference in the headsail shape and the resulting performance of our boat, but to change it I need to spend several minutes undoing knots and then retying them - which is far from ideal.

     

    Can't seem to find a photo of mine on my phone but will have a look.

     

    Thanks,

    Justin

  5. When lying on its side there appears to be a line attached to the hull which I imagine they're pulling to help with righting her.  It thought these boats were supposed to be self righting if the foils were configured correctly (both down?).

  6. Freedom made it in one piece. The old wooden GBE is now around 43 years old. We saw some good speed in the gusts.  Reaching on choppy seas, angle of death, smacking into waves . We got in before dark.

     

    Well done to all the 8.5s especially Lucifer, driving it like they stole it.

     

    Good weekend all round.

    Following the division 7 race online showed the awesome drag race you guys were having all the way up the coast.

     

    Saying that, was that you guys who almost tripped over just after the start?  Surely it must be like golf where you buy a round of drinks if you don't make it past the lady's tee.  Maybe, if you don't make it past North Head you have to shout a round for the whole fleet. ;-)

  7. One strategy that worked for me was to bundle all my insurance requirements (house, car, contents, boat) and shopping around with the proviso that it's all or nothing.  Obviously this won't work for the dedicated marine insurance companies but it sounds like they're not interested in trimarans anyway.  You need to carefully consider the policies on offer by non-marine insurers but it sounds like you're willing to forego the contentious aspects (racing, capsize).

  8. I've had a reply from Bruce Goff, Maritime Officer at the Harbourmaster's Office:

     

    With respect to moorings in the Little Bucklands Beach mooring zone, you may be aware that  HMB Marina have a  consent to extend the marina and as such  there are a number of moorings that  are effected by the  project and will need to be resited.  Along with  this work is also a project  where  a small number of moorings  currently lay outside the mooring  zone and these mooring owners are also been contacted  and advised  about the need for moorings to be positioned within the mooring  zone.   Attached is  a  map identifying  the mooring zone and marina zone.  Last week a number of moorings were  repositioned by the mooring contractor, our office is awaiting the  mooring inspection reports to  update the GIS  mooring chart.  I hope this clarifies the situation with regards to moorings  in Little Bucklands Beach. If you require any further information please do not hesitate in contacting me.

     

    He also provided the attached diagram with the marina extension overlay.  Bruce is also happy for anyone to contact him with any queries and his email address is Bruce.Goff@at.govt.nz

     

     

    LB Moorings.JPG

  9. Thanks for the feedback.  Looks like they have their place.  I'll probably select the model based on room constraints in the cockpit.  Saying that, I quite like the idea of a wireless controller which could persuade me down a certain track, particularly if I want to try some singlehanded racing in the future.

     

    Next question:

     

    Given the lack of space in the GBE cockpit, I'm thinking about installing it so the automatic tiller device runs fore & aft connecting to an extension running 90 degrees off the tiller.  I realise this would put the compass bearing 90 degrees out, but if the trigonometry was correct, it would work as expected.

     

    Any thoughts on that idea?  Anyone done it or something similar? 

     

    Also, the tillerpilots seem to have fairly specific instructions on where the connection point needs to be along the length of the tiller.  I'm assuming that if you go further along the tiller - increasing the distance between the stock and the connection point - the worst thing that would happen is that the turning circle wouldn't be tight as expected (which would be desirable for a setup where you're cruising along at multihull speeds).

  10. I'd be interested to know if anyone operates an autohelm or tillerpilot on an 8.5 multihull.  I'm thinking that it would be useful for sail changes and deck management if you're shorthanded or sailing with non-sailors. I imagine actually sailing with one would be quite inefficient relative to having a capable human on the tiller.

     

    I also realise that there are certain conditions where you wouldn't want to leave the steering responsibilities up to a robot which can't feel the wind gusts. 

     

    If anyone has any experience with one I'd be keen to hear about it.

     

    Cheers,

    Justin

  11. I have a mooring closer to the HMB marina extension area.  (Catamaran next to the Trimaran in Island Time's photo).  I've been looking for information about the effects on mooring holders from the extensions and can't seem to find anything published.  Mooring holders were apparently given an opportunity to contest the resource consent application but no issues were formally raised (Can't remember where I read that).

     

    I've asked the council/harbourmaster for some information and will pass that on when I hear back.

  12. That's a pretty convincing argument for the inner forestay. 

     

    Just out of interest, if you dropped the main when trying to make progress in 40 knots and sail with the heavy weather jib only, would a GBE be controllable both upwind and downwind? and would you still get the inverted bend in the mast from the heavy weather jib pulling the crap out of the normal forestay? (assuming you didn't have an inner forestay)

  13. Both the inner and outer shrouds on my GBE connect to the same point on the hull.  The inner shroud connects to the mast about 75% of the way to the top and the outer shroud goes almost to the top.

     

    From what I can tell, the inner shroud is standard on a GBE and there was no outer shroud on the original design.  I'm guessing the outer ones were added to support larger downwind sails.

     

    My outer shroud connection appears to be less than ideal and needs sorting.  (Pictures attached).  Note that the current arrangement has a wire rope ending about 2m from the connection point and 6mm braid between that point and the hull connection.

     

    My questions are: What is the ideal method of connection/setup?  Should I be able to tension them? (they are both essentially slack at present). How important are these things?

     

    Thanks,

    Justin

     

    IMG_2130.JPG

    IMG_2131.JPG

  14. Great, thank you. 

     

    So far my to do list consists of:

    - 12 additions/modifications to the boat, rigging or sails

    - 35 items of safety equipment/tools/navigation aids/medical gear

     

    I'm guessing the sail/rigging modifications and electrics will be the two biggies.  The rest should be fairly straight forward. I think I'll go for two independent electrical systems, one in each hull to avoid running cables between the hulls.  Given the way we use the boat, I would like most of the cat 3 modifications to be removed when not in use and then easily re-installed when required.

     

    Is there a straight forward 'alternative steering method' used by 8.5 catamarans? I assume you still need one for a multihull despite being able to make the two rudders completely independent with a crescent if one failed completely.

×
×
  • Create New...