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Jason128

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  1. It’s well worth spending the time to get it loose. There’s plenty of motors that have continued to run for years after being corrosion seized. Yes it might never be quite the same, but given how much you will actually use it, does it really matter if it smokes a little? I remember my dad spraying crc in a engine for what seemed like month to free it before it finally worked, we sailed around in it for years later as kids. I know how much better Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed with crc works on bolts, if you know what your cylinders are made of, this might be an better option.
  2. Also a little pc fan inside the fridge blowing on the fan can make a huge difference for now much effort
  3. I would think 100mm of foam is pretty good. essentially you are trying to cool those brine tanks, which will take a lot to do initially. I Tried to freeze 3x 10l bottles in the freezer at home before Christmas, it took the best part of a week to freeze them solid, kept the beer cold for at least a week in the esky too Either drain them, or use them to your advantage if you can - you just need to get them cool before you load up the fridge. Setup it up so you can run it for 2-3 days before you set off, they will be nice and cold and help keep the temperature cool and stable. Once they are cooled down I don’t see any disadvantage at all in leaving them there. A 12v transformer do you don’t drain the batteries too much if you have shore power.?
  4. Ouch, that’s expensive for what it does,
  5. Thanks IT. Decided to replace the antenna as well. Pacific aerials are making me one up with the longer required cable. no joins seems good to me
  6. Depending on where you look there is differing information about which channel All ships calls should be made entering the restricted navigation zone. some sites show CH18 for all ships call. http://www.cruiseguide.co.nz/marlborough-sounds/boating-and-navigation/tory-channel-entrance/ some show CH19 https://www.marlborough.govt.nz/repository/libraries/id:1w1mps0ir17q9sgxanf9/hierarchy/Documents/Recreation/SafeBoatingBrochure.pdf Which is Right? this seems like a recipe for disaster with differing channels published. And how many people are actually doing this? I don't think i have heard any calls except form Ferries (cant remember which channel though!)
  7. thanks Ill try giving them a call. I sent them a email a month ago and heard nothing back.
  8. Anyone interested in a Raymarine Fluxgate Compass. take out of the boat as not required- working fine. open to offers- better getting used on on the shelf i also have a bunch of sealalk 1 cables and hub as well Raymarine ST40 Compass System w/ Fluxgate transducer E22048 Raymarine ST40 Compass System Features: SeaTalk compatible for networking to other instruments, multifunction displays and autopilots High contrast LCD display for excellent visibility 3 levels of display backlighting for night use Large digits and analog readout for visibility across the cockpit True or magnetic bearing information User or autopilot initiated locked bearing mode Integrated direction to steer and course deviation indicators User adjustable off course alarm Master or repeater operation for repeating compass data at another location Raymarine ST40 Compass System Specifications: General Supply voltage: 10 V to 16 V dc. Current consumption (12 V supply): 20 mA typical. 60 mA with maximum backlighting. Operating temperature: 0°C to +70°C. Interfaces: SeaTalk. Overall dimensions: 126 mm x 70 mm x 38 mm (5.00 inches x 2.80 inches x 1.55 inches). Boss diameter: 55 mm (2.20 inches). Heading range: 0 to 359°. Off course alarm: 2° to 30° (port or starboard). CE - conforms to 89/336/EC(EMC), EN60945. 94/25/EC(RCD), EN28846 (applies to transducer only).
  9. Anyone know where I can get a 1m VHF extension cable. The only ones i can find are long, and i don't really want to buy crimpers to make one up? cheers Jason
  10. Jason128

    Battery Drills

    I reckon 80% of established builders I see are using Makita. I think that says something. There are a few that use Milwaukee as well. We have had nothing but trouble with hitachi gear at work, so much so they will no longer offer us warranty claims, we have sent so much stuff back! The only reason we haven’t changes is the dozens of hitachi batteries we have.
  11. Sorry to be blunt, but I would not want this near my boat. If you look at the original, you have a long length that runs in the casting parallel. This cools the casting, before the water is eventually injected into the exhaust. I doubt you will keep the end of that pipe at below 100 degrees where your hose is connected on. If I’m wrong, and you do, you will have a say 300 degree pipe cooling to under 100 over the length of inch. This will lead to fatigue cracking in stainless. I would be nervous this will fail, and of course at the worst possible time
  12. The eWOF inspectors- - for whoever it was that asked- from the evans bay marina newsletter are The process for obtaining an EWOF is – 1) Electrician inspects boat & remedies any fault. 1 Stop Electrical, Rex Cherrington 022 111 1122 Euro Electrical, Florian 027 245 8889 2) Electrical Inspector inspects & issues EWOF. John Corbett 027 599 0540 My understanding is all 3 issue Ewofs, not just the last one The process for obtaining an EWOF is – 1) Electrician inspects boat & remedies any fault. 1 Stop Electrical, Rex Cherrington 022 111 1122 Euro Electrical, Florian 027 245 8889 2) Electrical Inspector inspects & issues EWOF. John Corbett 027 599 0540
  13. Thanks for that island time, Am I right in undersanding in your opinion the battery charger is not a real risk in terms of adding to galvanic corrosion risk? Have sorted the bilge now, no wires sitting in it, and found all the leaks so it’s dry, (ironically it’s raining here, and the house still leaks, bucket in the lounge room, but the boats dry!)
  14. It’s not just signing it off, this was a new install, done by one of the certified inspectors. Brief was do what’s required for ewof to tun a dehumidifier and charger continously
  15. Completely agree about stray dc current being the biggest culprit. I had a alloy prop shrink in size by about 2 inches over 6 months. Eventually found that someone had joined in a new bilge pump 3 inched off the pump, so the join was always wet... So should I be nervous about the battery charger? It’s a pro mariner pro sport 20a triple charger, which is designed to be left running continuously apparently...
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