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  1. MPS supplies carpet pads for the travel lift to protect the wrap so damage is not an issue for my light displacement boat. I think heavier boats should be ok as well, but suggest speaking with MPS on their experience here. The aggressive Bay of Islands barnacles are one of the reasons I went with Silikon. They are seasonal from approx Feb - April when water is warmest. Generally I swim to clean the bottom often enough that I don't get these barnacles with the Silikon, however when I cleaned the boat after lockdown, I did have some barnacles adhering to the silikon. They easily pop off with my finger though with no damage.
  2. Silikon wrap for a 9 meter yacht was approx $5k installed excluding prep 2 years ago. It is priced by the sq meter. Best to speak with MPS about recommended prep. Generally clean off all the old crap and put a nice sealing primer coat on for good adhesion, taking care to get good adhesion on this coating. Leave a few days before the silikon is applied. They did the application in one day.
  3. I've had Silikon from MPS for two years now and am happy with product keeping in mind there is no perfect solution. I do dive before races to give the boat a wipe-down which is relatively easy using a small 12v hookah. After lockdown and not cleaning for two months it had a fair amount of growth, which wiped off with bare hands. I did have some damage to the bow from a fergie buoy, my fault and since replaced with standard ball mooring, which was relatively easy to repair. Yes - it was expensive, but time it saves me in being easy to clean is worth it for me. Happy to answer questions if anyone wants more specific info.
  4. I understand why a professional installer would use Hella from a reputation standpoint, but for the average boatie trying to keep costs reasonable, in my own experience LED technology is both cheap and reliable, and everything else is just marketing hype. If I ever did have a problem my spare emergency nav lights are easy to clip on. I was required by an inspector to move my gunwale mounted lights to the pulpit rail years ago even though other prominent boats in the area continue to have gunwale mounted lights and the forward angle of the new lights was checked and debated as to whether there was a slight toe in. Also had inspector complain that the lights were not the expensive brand....
  5. I also had tabs welded on similar to the above picture, but rounded at the front so no corner for kite to catch on. Keep in mind that the tabs should be angled out from the natural line of the pulpit so that when the lights are mounted they are parallel with each other as opposed to toe'd in, or the lights will need to be shimmed. The welder can also add holes where the pulpit attaches to the deck and tubing to run wiring.
  6. I had my bottom wrapped with Silikon this winter by NZMPS. Not cheap, but like trying new technologies. It's a foul release system, as opposed to antifouling. I don't go fast enough to self-clean, but it is easy to swim and wipe down before races. Takes about 25 minutes for 9m yacht using low pressure regulator and pump, and bare hands to wipe. Hoping I'll get several years out of it. I was previously using Ultra but the barnacles in BOI have been real aggressive over the summer season and seem to stick to about anything. Also biocides were spent after six months, so still had to clean regularly and was more work. I'm happy with the system so far, but recognize its not for everyone due to high initial cost and regular cleaning regimen. Also NZ phased out several biocides last year, so the paint you buy this season could be different from last year's brew - see https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/news/new-rules-antifouling-paints
  7. If appearance is the main consideration, carbon fiber vinyl wrap works well too - get it on trade-me.
  8. jay

    Sliding hatch catch

    This is what I use: https://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/rv/hardware/latches-catches-hooks/flush-pull-latch Made specifically for the task. Mounts on washboard and locks hatch into place, can be opened from inside & out. Comes in plastic if weight is important or stainless if not. Never had issues with it and Cat 3 inspector was happy.
  9. jay

    Rudder refoil

    Some good shape details on this website FYI - https://www.jefa.com/rudder.htm I closely followed their racing blade dimensions when I rebuilt my rudder a few years ago. I agree with comments regarding emphasizing control over drag.
  10. jay

    A2 luff

    #1 luff = 10.6m,(on a 7/8 fractional rig) A2 luff = 13.7m (masthead) So 29% longer.
  11. I've had Aquacote silicon foul release on the hull and NZMPS Silikon wrap on the rudder for a year now as a trial comparison. The Aquacote needs regular cleaning but wipes clean fairly easily - I dive before each race, and it is holding up well. While I'm happy with the Aquacote, the NZMPS wrap is a much superior product though due to the finish being factory controlled as opposed to self applied. It mostly self cleans except for a slight film that wipes off very easily. I still get barnicles on the Aquacote but they don't seem to take hold on the NZMPS product. While I should be able to get multiple years from both products, I'm thinking of stripping the Aquacote this winter and replacing with the wrap.
  12. Here's a picture of the hatch clasp I use. A number of the marine shops sell these. If you search google for "flush pull latch nz" you should find sources.
  13. jay


  14. To secure the washboards I have a small hole in top washboard with a cord passed through and knotted outside. Line then just stretches over a little hook inside that can be reached from either inside or outside when the top hatch is open. To secure the top sliding hatch, there is an inexpensive special purpose clasp fitting that can be operated from inside or outside that is sold by marine stores, in either plastic if you are weight obsessive, or metal. My cat 3 inspector a few years ago had never seen this fitting and thought it was pretty neat.
  15. These two websites have free ocean current models: https://www.windytv.com/?currents,2016-10-15-21,-35.299,174.375,8 https://windria.net/auckland-nz (click on the "currents" tab) Not sure how reliable they are?? particularly as one gets closer to east coast, but interesting to study. General NZ current diagram - http://calib.qub.ac.uk/marine/currents/NewZealand.html I have observed southerly current approaching 1/2 kt between brett and poor knights. I suspect Jon is right about east auckalnd current not being as strong this time of year.
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