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gisywaterboy

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About gisywaterboy

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  1. +1 for Kawakawa, bottom end is right there.
  2. Awesome, Thanks. Let me know how you get on.
  3. Wanted to buy, new or used Yanmar tachometer for a 2GM20. My current one is still working but getting pretty rusty around the collar. It has no hour counter and screen reads P=97 in very small writing at the bottom, 12v. I can get one from Ebay for $300. I am hoping for a much cheaper option than this. Thanks all.
  4. gisywaterboy

    Tube clamps

    Burnsco sell them, and AES.
  5. Thanks guys, I have purchased 4 tubes of Quilosa MS35, hopefully this will be enough. I am thinking of not using the damming tape around the inside edge and coving it with the quisola the next day instead. I will keep the glue 10mm back from the inside edge. My biggest reservation (having only put windows in using blackout primer in the past) is that if there are parts of the window overlap that are not covered in glue, say little air pockets, that this will show from the outside (through the tinted window). Also seems strange to not have to key the acrylic.
  6. Im looking at putting some new acrylic windows in shortly. I am planning on using 1.6mm VHB tape around the inside edge and MS35 to bond it. I have a few questions, Do I need to key the acrylic? should i use black out primer? How much product am I likely to use for two windows 2400x300mm? Cheers
  7. Hi all, I own the Elliott 9 Hot Property (3+ years now). She is currently getting a wee refit and I want to reach out to her past owners in an effort to get some information about her history. I am particularly interested in what type of paint the grey non skid is, it is a bit different and finding out what it is will make it alot easier to repaint. I also have a bunch of other questions for past owners particularly the guy who put the new keel on her. I love the boat and plan to own it for some time yet. It would be nice to learn her history. Please pm me Thanks heaps.
  8. Hi all, I have a Nexus wind depth speed package for sale. Wind wand is wireless with a battery less than a year old. Includes transducers for depth and speed. Has two displays with covers. All working great. Approx 5 years old. $300
  9. I have a Nexus wireless wind / depth instrument package I am keen to sell. All in working condition if you are interested, probably about 5 years old.
  10. Try NZ Shipwrights, works out of Gulf Harbour and is registered to do gas.
  11. its all above water line. Above post is in regards to my cockpit. Not sure whats on the hull yet, I havnt started sanding that. Theres no sign of any problems with the substrate on that though. So as I understand it #3 three makes a good primer but a lousy undercoat. It sounds like its just the topcoat that doesnt want to stick to it, maybe cause there is very little mechanical keying with super fine sanding prior to top coating. I imagine it worked ok if topcoated within a day or two of original application to take advantage of chemical bonding.
  12. Thanks, I would like to avoid using durepox or interprotect if I can as this will add another step and because it is difficult to sand. The #3 has stuck very well and looks to be in great condition. I just want to be sure that the YRA600 will stick to it. I might try giving international a call just to make sure.
  13. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone can tell me what sticks to old (90s) Altex #3? I know some top coats didnt stick well to it (mine didnt in places) but what about other primers? I have sanded it back a fair way with 150 grit and am hoping to apply another primer or undercoat over top of the #3 prior then top coating over that. I was thinking YRA600, Interprotect or Durepox. Preferably the YRA as I already have a job lot of the stuff, if it will stick to it. Also I read in a past topic that #3 prefers to be overcoated soon after sanding. Does this still apply to paint that has been on the boat for 25yrs? Thanks
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