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bazzathemammoth

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About bazzathemammoth

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  1. That's a good idea The link i shared showed a snake that won't bend, they are designed to go through large diameter duct and physically couldn't double over itself in the mast. They have a large bend radius and would need a big force to snap. Can you not take the sheave out and then push the rod in from the top?
  2. You could use that, but those have a tendency to wrap around while being pushed down a large diameter tube, YMMV. A vac can work really well if there aren't any significant holes between vac and entry point. Failing that you could try a fibreglass snake, eg https://firstchoicecomms.com.au/product/fibreglass-snake-100m-reel-4mm/. if you know a linesman they might be able to loan you one for some beers. Years ago I used to hire them from the likes of hirepool, but nowdays I use a vac + bag + stringline for long pulls through big ducts. If I was you I would try the vac option first. Good luck
  3. Hey guys. Just checking in. We are chilling out, anchored outside russell. There are going to be fireworks and the kids are stoked as. This has been our first boi trip and we love the place. How are your new years?
  4. Thanks for the replies. The boat had just been serviced by the yanmar agents, so I think that insurance would have a hard time saying that we were negligent. Also I would rather base my decisions on actual risk instead of hypothetical situations. Some other brand sail drives only use 1 seal and seem to be surviving ok. After having a further look today I think that the inner diaphragm was never installed properly as I cant find the inner steel band. I'm not sure if this contributed to the tearing, but we have carried this risk since buying the boat and it has been ok. Regardless, I think the boat was repowered in 2007 so 12 years life is reasonable for what is supposed to last 6 years. I think I would rather know that the outer seal is 100% so that I can feel confident in taking it up the coast this summer. It scares me a bit that the only thing in these saildrive boats between floating and sinking is a bit of rubber that is attached to a hunk of metal with explosions and rotating parts inside. After having a look into it, the pros reckon its a case of pulling the saildrive out from above, giving it a birthday and putting it back in. Ill do a few other jobs on it while its out and then at least we should get a few more years before having to worry about it again. Good thing we were planning on hauling out for antifouling next week anyways. Oh well, we didn't really need that $1200 and spare weekend before Christmas I suppose....
  5. The inner seal is the one that is cracked. I assume its purpose is some kind of backup for the outer seal. I haven't checked the alarm yet, but there's no water to trip it at this stage. We are hauling out next week to anti foul, so that could be an ideal time to do it. Is it a case of pulling the prop off the sd, then the sd off of the engine, then sd out of the boat, fix it and reinstall?
  6. Hi guys We have recently discovered that the diaphragm B in our yanmar sd20 sail drive has split (see pic). It isn't leaking any water, so I assume diaphragm A is still solid. I have a few questions: Have any of you replaced these diaphragms? If so how much did it cost and how difficult was it? How risky do you think it is to continue using the boat like this? Do you think the local Yanmar dealer should have picked this up in their recent service? Thanks
  7. I agree that makita is not what it used to be. I would never consider it with the many stories i have heard from multiple people lately. I have found ryobi the best value for money, and i use an older lithium brushed 18v. Its not very powerful for a 18v drill but far less expensive than the others. I have done plenty of tough work with it drilling into steel, stainless, and hardwood. My first one broke after 5 years and it's replacement is still going strong 4 years later. At just over $100 fof just the drill it is a no brainer for me. Their chucks are their main weakness though, and my one is now pretty buggered. Milwaukee is generally the most powerful and I think they have now sorted their reliability issues. AEG seems pretty good too, I havent heard anything bad about them and have worked with a few guys who use them. I'm sure u know that brushless is worth getting. This is my experience as a sparky over the years.
  8. We did a bit of an investigation last year and found that there are really only 2 reasons to change oil, excessive contaminants and worn out additives. Hence we get our oil analysed 6 monthly and change as required on our fleet of backup generators (which all run at 1500rpm all the time). We had a new genset installed recently that the enigineers had over speced and was running with too little load. We had to install load banks to stress the engine enough to bed in properly. It was a pretty interesting exercise. Apparetly on of the worst things you can to to a diesel is run it with little/no load. Oh and apparently they never change the oil on large ships. They just clean it in a centrifuge and top it up as required.
  9. Yea. Redistributing the loads would have cured the symptom but not the cause. I hope it was sorted cuz a dodgy neutral can kill.
  10. Did you get the sparky to check your main neutral connection? If he didnt, dont use him again and find someone else to have a look at it. It sounds like there is a dodgy neutral to me. Believe it or not, the main earth peg does bugger all in most installations.
  11. We are very happy with our mason supreme. I think most anchors of this general design are the go. I dive on my anchor from time to time and it seems to always dig in well. Sometimes all i can see is the roll bar!
  12. We have a st4000 on our boat. Had a pretty spotty run with it initially, but I resoldered the motor connections and upgraded the factory plug/socket and it works pretty well now. Before doing that it had very little pushing power and stalled all the time. It cant handle a full rudder load (Elliott 10.5) but does a good enough job in most conditions and hasn't played up since.
  13. I bought an old hp laptop with ssd for $125 on tm. Got a 12v charger from work and it uses a suprisingly small amount of power. The main thing for whatever you get is to make sure it has a SSD, as this means more reliable and less power draw.
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