rmiker
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Posts posted by rmiker
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I agree with Island Time 100 %. I ran OpenCPN on a tablet as a primary for a short time but relegated it to back up system fairly quickly.. It did however run opencpn well and was accurate with only an internal arial.
I then ran a dedicated marine chart plotter but because of the relatively small screen size I also ran a laptop below decks for planning..
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I have anchored in rocky bay many times with a manson in 20kn and never dragged.
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rmiker, by vacuuming are you referring to using one of those oil change sucky bottles where you poke the hose down the dipstick pipe? I used one of those bottles on the H28,twice a year, putting the hose down the filler pipe until it hit the bottom of the tank and drawing up a few litres. We don't have such a bottle on the canal boat but use the tank drain to let out some fuel into a bucket. I guess that does the same thing?
Yup: just the vacuum oil pump.. Best thing since sliced bread IMO.. Well I wish the designer/builder of my tank had put in a socket for a drain valve because where the tank is situated it is very accessible and so would have been usable aka easier.
However the vacuum pump is also very easy as long as I do it on a regular basis so I am not going to shag about modifying anything now..
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Yup: I always seem to get just a little bit of moisture laying in the top of the through deck. Not much you can do about that and with condensation added it builds up..
I have found that if I vacuum the tank every time I do an oil change then I seem to collect no crap on the filter and most definitely no water in the glass bowl.. All I waste is 2-3 litres of diesel
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iPads
in MarineTalk
A bit expensive alright!! I got one with android 7, higher specs with two sim card slots for half that price.. runs open cpn quite nicely
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We carry a handrail mounted as an emergency backup..
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Hold on....even following IT suggestion to go between the two cardinal marks.........any way you cut it, this larger scale chart IT put here is telling me that if I have a 1.4m draft, then at springs low I could well go aground no matter what route I take..........there's 1.2m in places and 1.3m in places....
Guess I could always go the long way round on opposite side of river and never have to worry about it
Well seen a few boat crews there having a cuppa while waiting for the water to come back... But generally its all good albeit narrow... -
So why is it marked Green?
your second route is the one that is commonly used and the one that I used to use at low tide. A chart with higher detail will show you.. Unfortunately I can't work out how to post a screen shot from mine
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why can't boat designers make at least some sections in straight lines with right angles???
Because you DO NOT want a right angle elbow in your sewage line! Trust me boat designers know that
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I did ours with kiwigrip 3yrs ago and was still looking pretty good last weekend: I know because I looked hard thinking this must be due for replacement. But it won't be this season
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So the boat is up for a new coating etc. I am based in Westhaven. The last lot was well done and I have only compliments for them (I wont say who though) and already have a quote from them to do it again.
So why change applicator then? Has the price doubled??
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If you are looking for a long term maintenance free installation use silicon bronze.. End of story!!
These days you could probably use a duplex SS screw/bolt i.e 2205 if you can find one which I doubt and if you can it will be the same cost as s/b.
There are no shortcuts here. 316 SS and timber do not mix long term: The time frame is only governed or limited by the moisture content and that will go up and down constantly it will never be dry...
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In order
Yes
Bronze
A rag.
And a life time?
Please
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What about a cracked liner let’s oil into the sump I had a Bukh 20 in a townson That used to lock up sometimes on start up , took the head off Mew casket planed the head ,all back together A week later same prob . Sold the boat problem gone ,
And you mentioned this to the prospective/new owner?
How long ago was this?
Just asking
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Ummm. The interior of your vessel will turn black.. slowly but surely.. and so will your lungs
Do not do it.. Please....
Tis the soot.. Candles are a very inefficient way of burning fuel.
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I bought a packet of about 50 of those little tea light candles for a few dollars haven’t tried it yet but i would think burning 5 or 10 of them safely in a pot or similar would help heating in a small boat with adequate ventilation Not much of a financial commitment to find out.
Ummm. The interior of your vessel will turn black.. slowly but surely.. and so will your lungs
Do not do it.. Please....
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Yep, you CAN solder stainless steel (Ive done it). Google it!
Yes you can solder SS. Soldering ss was still an accepted construction method when I started my apprenticeship: From distant memory I think we used high tin solder though..
Usually you can tell the difference between monel and ss visually. SS appears more silver due to the chrome content: monel is duller and has a more golden hue. Monel is also magnetic where 304 and 316 aren't. However some SS's are magnetic so visual was the main in the old days
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But then I have seen some 316, thirty years old that was perfect. (visually)
As a SS fabricator I wouldn't be trusting any ss 30yrs old unless it has been fully exposed to the atmosphere it entire life: Period.
And my own boat at 45+ yrs has plenty onboard which still looks fine: what I can see of it
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No, it is just really good at being corrosion resistant. But it is bad in a galvanic corrosion situation.
And so is SS: which is also bad in a low oxygen situation. So monel should be better if protected properly?
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Thanks for the feedback everyone, much appreciated.
I took a look over the weekend and I was pleasantly surprised at the PBC facilities and the area in general. Now I need to get my head around the boat jobs that need to be addressed if I sever the marina umbilical cord.
PBC is fantastic in my opinion: and if I wasn't Waikato based that is where I would want to be!
We are on poles in the Clevedon River and used to be in a marina once. Poles are great. Getting on and off is made real easy if you use a weighted high line system. Especially if you put a clip in the middle so while you are on the poles you can just clip it fore and aft to avoid chafe.
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Hmm. Found this: From http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f136/sail-drives-and-props-38652-7.html#post803465
Would explain it..
QUOTE:Mahe’s
I received two reports of folding props falling off the sail drives. One prop on a Mahe 36 and the other on a Lipari 41.
Please make sure that you have a good stainless steel locking tab and that you make sure it’s folded tight up against the bolt when you install your folding props. These props have a three way safety lock on them. If the first one is not properly done over time the two other locks loosen up and fall off.
Mark -
So today my prop fell off.
Dropped sails and came to motor into bay and no drive. Check linkages on shifter and saildrive and all ok. Re hoist sails and sail to anchor. Jump in water with mask and confirm missing prop diagnosis.
Now this prop I had "rebuilt" and professionally re installed, last year. I had it professionally installed so that it wouldn't fall off.
So what I'm now wondering, is whether I should have been checking it was still done up tight, or doing something to make sure it wasn't going to fall off? Or should I be ringing up the engineer that put it on and asking for some sort of compensation?
I was there when he put it on and he didn't seem to be the cutting corners type. And I've probably done 100 hours on it so it isn't like it fell off the week after it went on.
But at the very least I'd like to figure out how to make sure the next one doesn't fall off.
Any ideas?
Umm. Why did it fall off? That is the question.. Split pin not installed or incorrectly? Corrosion? Broken shaft? 100hrs is not long..
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YouTube Sailing Vlogs....or whatever you call them
in MarineTalk
Posted
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMHT2GU2TrJnlvhDvJlKRRg