wheels

I am currently trying to find that out.

Good, I am glad you guys are seeing the same complexity as I am. From non boating perspectives I have been involved with, we could "ask if people would consider giving a Koha/Donation, but the attendee had the right to give as much or as little as they wanted, including nothing if they so chose. Asking a specific amount was no longer considered Koha/Donation. That is an interesting take from MNZ. From my Boating perspective, if the Boat is a Commercial Vessel and is being operated as such, then all other Maritime Commercial rules must also be followed. From what I understand, thi

Firstly, don't anyone go taking this thread off on some politcal tangent. This is a question about the Maritime or MSA Laws and NOTHING ELSE. Secondly, I am hoping Grant from Wellington see's this and can jump in, as I know the harbour Master is keeping an eye on this and other such attempts. And I believe such a sailing has already taken place a week or so ago. More info on that would be appreciated. So the situtation is, an invite to the Picton protestors and other interested parties to cross Cook Strait has been made. The invite has been made by someone calling themselves Holy Barge

Yes these start swtiches eventually fail. Not Yanmars fault. It is common for most all. The trick is to find a switch with a good current rating. Not because it needs it. But the higher the current rating, usually the heavier the switch contacts. The problem is caused when any coils magnetic field collapses. So every time you release the start switch. A very short duration, high energy back current (back EMF is the technical term) is created. The larger the collapsing coil, the greater that energy. This jumps the contacts of a switch and causes the contact to slowly erode away over time. The

Wasting ones time trying to flush the engine with fresh water, unless you can hook up a hose and run it for 15 min to half an hr. Even then, it may not flush the salt out. Especially if the Salt has worked it's way up into the gap between two mating surfaces. The thing to do is to remove the end cap. Make sure the seal is doing what it should. If the surfaces have become pitted, then have them filed, or machined(depending on how bad, clean and flat. Re seal it with a smear of selant between the gasket and surfaces. The issue is caused by Salty moisture being absorbed by the gasket. Hence why

Ha, reminds me of a time I was telling a guy about Battery care. His boat had one start battery also being used as house. I gave a great speach I thought. At the end of it all, he said, well this battery is now 10yrs old and still working fine. How much longer would I expect from it if I had done everything you just said. That stopped me in my tracks. It was a cheap start batter and shouldn't have lasted the time it did even if it only ever was used as just a start battery. But in saying that. Don't take it as an excuse to not follow the proper battery rules, just because one situation was o

Most likely we did. It depends on the way the system is connected, which is determined by what the end goal is. All configurations have pros and cons. Setup No1. In the most common setup, there are usually two identical batteries. Usually start batteries. One battery was dedicated to start, the other was for running the stereo etc while out fishing. The Voltage drops to whatever the trigger point is and the Start battery is isolated from the "house" and protected from be discharged too far. When engine starts, the Voltage rises, the trigger voltage is reached and the Two batteries link t

As long as they were initially fully charged, you can actually leave them for some time. As in several months. The rule of thumb is either, charge every 90days or when the Voltage drops to 12.5V. Or as said above, buy a cheap 12V solar panel and connect. A small one of a watt or two could be left permanently connected. It won't over charge them when he Sun is at full shinyness and you don't need a regulator unless the panel is over 10W.

Be aware that brass shim material will quickly dezincify. You may slow that by applying a thin film of grease or lanocote. But very thin. You don't want the film to end up making the clamp lose again. If it were me, I would simply slice a shimy off the two sides of the clamp and tighten. A Grinder with a thin 1.6mm cut off disc is all you would need. Run it up the gap and see if that allows it to bolt tight. As I said above, the Key itself is not doing much. It is there to align the tiller to correct oriantation to the rudder. And besides, if the key is square, you could simply turn it one s

DO NOT connect an old battery and a new battery together. Even if they are identical. DO NOT connect two different types (deep cycle with start, or AGM with FLA etc) of battery together. Do you have plenty of capacity with the current setup? If yes, the best idea is to get a small deep cycle for House. You can either use a charge splitter to isolate the two (my prefered situation) or a VSR. I do not like VSR's because you are still charging two unlike batteries and the battery the VSR disconnects never gets fully charged. Not so much of a problem if you tend to be a weekend sailor, the b

It is probably due to wear, due to a small movement over time. The Key should be tight, but it is not there to prevent movement as such. That is the job of the clamping pressure. The key "selects'' the tiller position on the shaft and is a lock only second. But if the tiller slops around for any time, that will wear both shaft, clamp and key and it only takes a slightly small amount of wear to feel really lose. The idea with this is that the clamping pressure would normally have been enough. But the wear now means not enough clamping pressure is obtained. Two ways to go about it.

There is one very important point I have not seen discussed. We really need to know what the "cruising" part means. If you want to cruise around the World, you need to plan on any low budget purchase right now as nothing more than a stepping stone. The cost and in some cases the ability of getting an old Boat that has never met Cat1 to that standard today, will make the idea near impossible. Anyone looking for Cat1 really needs to be looking for a Boat that has been there, done the journey and returned home again and the owners looking at selling. Then the list and expense of achieving Cat one

BP makes a good comment. Most of us bought the boat we liked and then spent money on it. It could be said that if I didn't buy a boat, I would likely have a lot more money today. But I would be much poorer for not having had the experience.

Time to add my 2 cents worth. Everyone has provided great info by the way. However, from a low income Boat owner, now to a non boat owner because the cost has gone out of reach, here is my view. Firstly, everything I add below is dependant on your idea of Cruising. If you want a Blue Water Boat to Cruise the World, Boat to Cruise NZ water, or a Boat that is mainly to live aboard and cruise the local area. If the plan is to eventually cruise large distances, even if that is just NZ waters, then you need to start with a Boat closer to the $100K mark. Although you might get a bargain if y

Sorry, I was meaning Vero.

So they are going to have to change the name from "Seize the Day" to "Seized by the Day", "Seized by the Bay" or, "More than Seized".

I have seen a few on that beach over time. Either on purpose or by accident. Many don't realise how far out the Tide goes due to a very gently shelving beach and once the Keel hits the sand, you are stuck there till it comes back in.

Have any of you tried Mariner Insurance, which is Vero. I know nothing of them, but I do know Vero is Australian and pretty much the biggest Oz has. There is also The Marina Shop, Opua. They are about the only Insurers left that still write their own Policy as such. As far as I know, all other insurers are underwritten by some real big Underwrites whom specify the policy. Hence why many seem to have the same policy rules. Be wary of Edward Williams Insurance of Spain. They seem to insure Boats anywhere in the World, but many Marinas will no longer accept a vessel insured by them, b

The beating sound is what is called a Harmonic. It is when vibration is almost the same frequency as the part transmitting the sound, in your case the Hull. As the two get closer to the same frequency, the beat becomes slower and slower till the two sounds combine. The further apart they ar, the faster the beating. Knowing that does not help much though. The Vibration can come from many things. Blade, Shaft, Shaft bearing, coupling, engine and so on. Alignment would not normally cause a vibration, but the mounts can most certainly allow transmission of it. You simply have to go through eac

Zozza touches on a point that both Businesses and Customers fail to do in NZ. Although it is changing, many need to catch up. In the past, we have all had the classic Kiwi attitude of trusting the other party with a handshake or simple nod of the head. But my past Rig installation headache, and a very recent situation involving someone else, has changed that for me. We need to start making contracts with he other party before work begins and clearly have both parties expectations clearly in writting. The latest store, I have a mate that carried out electronic work on a new property. Installi

I agree, Icom is the best. Clear sound which is most important to me. Rugged and well made.

Sounds like a great idea and there are ways of doing it. But the amount of traffic on the VHF would cut the Stereo out more than it was on. It would drive me nuts. However, check out https://audiointerrupt.com/vhf-u4/

The person telling me made out it was far worse than it is. I suspect it was due to the fact that between us and Tonga, in a line along the Kermadec Trench, there are only a total of 5 Bouys. Of which 2 were not working. There is a total fleet of 12 Bouys. As I said above, 5 are in a string between here and Tonga. 2 of that string are not working and they are the two closest to the Volcano. Perhaps that eruption, re the Ash Cloud for instance, stopped the Bouys reporting. Just a guess. That leaves 3 working bouys between NZ and the Volcano and those 3 are fairly close to NZ. And because of

Tonga has only one communications cable. At present, there is damage to the main cable at the 37Km mark out from the Capital I believe. There could be a second point of damage, but I missed hearing the comment properly. But mention of 47? Kms was made, but I did not catch in what relation that was. A Cable Ship was being made ready to leave PNG and head to Tonga. But it is going to be 2 or 3 weeks before repairs would be finished, providing the Cable is easily recovered. If it has been buried by a slip or debris or whatever, it will take longer. I have no idea how close to the Volcano the

It wasn't about warning for a tiny little place BP. The System was down yet again. Civil Defense was working on what was called "an Advisory". I had seen that advisory (if it is the same one) and it warned of potential threats and included a warning that Ash might make it as far as Wellington. The Actual early warning system that the Gvt has spent hundreds of millions on, in relation to Ocean monitoring bouys strung from NZ to the Kermadecs, is not operational, yet again. We have had (I think form memory) 3 significant events since that system was deployed and not once has it worked due to s