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MartinRF

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About MartinRF

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    http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/

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    Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Mousing line in place! 4 x 3 m lengths of 16 mm plastic piping made it possible as it was quite easy to push the plastic tube all the way from the bottom of the spar to the top. Cutting the end of the leading tube to a sharp point helped avoiding catching on rivets and bolts. A 4 mm hole drilled near the tip was used to attach the mousing line and the sheave at the mast top was removed to make access easier there. The rest should be routine work (famous last words?). /Martin
  2. Good idea, only snag is that there is no way to get to the top of the mast to feed bicycle chain into mast. I have even saved some worn out bicycle chain in case I may need it for this purpose. Main idea right now (before going to bed) is to get some cheap plastic piping (16 mm outer diam, 3 m lengths) and push this in from the bottom end of the spar. I hope I can figure out a way to attach mousing line. /Martin
  3. Tried the shop vac idea tonight -- didn't work. At best I got about 2 m in. The tube is fairly clean inside but there are some obstructions including the jib halyard and the spi halyard. I could remove them but progress stopped before I got to where they could obstruct. Also, there are a number of leak points. I tried to deal them with tape but it was not good enough to make a difference. I could push rods or tubes in from the bottom of the spar but how do I get to the mousing line at the top? Fish tape or fiberglass snake might work but I can see how they may act up on the way. There are rivets and the odd bolt to catch on and once that has happened the tape will buckle and... Rods or tubes sounds better, at least right now. I need 12 m plus, as mentioned above, some way of making the mousing line hitch a ride. Thanks for the ideas so far. Keep them coming. /Martin
  4. Planned to rig the boat today but things did not according to plan. I use the boom, main sheet and main halyard to raise the mast. The tail of the halyard broke. No one hurt, nothing else broken as far I know. For the first time since I built this rig I am in the situation that here is neither halyard nor pilot line where the main halyard should be. When I built this rig I was working in a workshop with an air compressor so I simply blew pilot lines fitted out with simple drag devices down the mast tube. Since the mast is kind of horizontal gravitation will not be of much help and compressed air is not available. What are my best options? Pushing a wire down the mast tube? Maybe I could use a vacuum cleaner to do the same thing I did with compressed air? TIA /Martin PS here is what lowering the mast looks like.
  5. A home made version of this? https://marine.wichard.com/rubrique-Captive_pin-0201110100000000-ME.html Any photo? /Martin
  6. This is very good reading of Slocum's book: https://librivox.org/sailing-alone-around-the-world-by-joshua-slocum/ /Martin
  7. Reminds me of the loss of Drum's keel during the Fastnet Race in 1985. /Martin
  8. Here in the Northern hemisphere it is time for maintenance. One of the items on my list is to re-sleeve the main halyard. It has an 8 mm Dyneema core and the sleeve is busted where it sits in the halyard clutch. The current sleeve extends 1.5 m above the clutch for reasons that do not apply any longer. Hence the question: How much sleeve is needed above the clutch? /Martin
  9. Does this help even if it is not the article you are looking for? http://www.boat-links.com/foils.html Added 11 h later: Why do you need flat-sided foils? Class rule? Beating my own drum (yes, about dagger boards but still true for rudder blades): http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/pages/daggers/index.html /Martin
  10. I know you live in a sunnier place than I do but still I think it should have lasted longer. What type of wood? Oak and epoxy for instance is non-trivial to make work in my experience. Then we have tho option of KISS. If swelling/shrinking with variations in humidity is not an issue for this tiller I would consider good old one-pot varnish. Yes, it will need to be re-done on a regular basis but it is not hard work. A cover will extend the service interval considerably. /Martin
  11. MartinRF

    American Magic

    Kelp harvesting? /Martin
  12. Only going dead down-wind so far. /Martin
  13. Yes, the Baltic Sea is known for not destroying old wrecks. The same goes for the Black Sea I understand which means there is a real possibility of finding ancient Greek mercant ships, Bysantine vessels... If you ever visit Stockholm this museum is a mandatory thing on yout to-do list: https://www.vasamuseet.se/en /Martin
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