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Hi Guys. As you all know I've scraped back my hull back to bare ferro and intend putting 2 coats of epoxy on the hull. A ferro owner I have spoken to says he has had real problems getting his anti foul to stick for longer than a season. He says he has owned his boat for 21 years and has tried everything. Any ideas? What can I do now to ensure my anti -foul sticks and what products have you all used? Is this why some ferro owners have chosen CC? thanks.
Hi Everyone. I have just completed scraping my 50 ft tahitian back to the bare ferro hull. It has never been epoxied. I'm not sure what was under the anti-foul. Maybe a rubber paint? The hull was professionally built and is very smooth. I will post a vid next weekend so everyone can see.... Here's my question............ I would like to protect the hull below the water line. I want to give it a protective coating that will last for years. I am leaning towards a modern high build coal tar epoxy. is there a better way or what has everybody else done... thanks....
I apologise in advance to all the old hands because you have no doubt discussed this to death but if you could just give me the benefit of your experience I would be very grateful.... I am intending installing galvanised wire rigging 1770 to all the latest uk bs codes. I intend putting 10mm everywhere except on the lower shrouds on the mizzen where it will be 8mm. I intend using a steel or aluminium nicopress swage. My mast is Aluminium and my rigging screws are SS so I will ensure that any galv touching a dissimilar metal will be isolated. I will soak the wire in boiled linseed oil, allow
Hi folks. I've started this thread to record what I've learnt about repairing Ferro cement. Some of the info seems to be out there but is sometimes is difficult to find..... 1. Cemex UK (sorry..I know this is a NZ forum) make a cement called 'Cemex Rugby Sulphate' which is a highly sulphate resistant blended cement. Sea water - salt - is a sulphate, so sulphate resistant is the holy grail. In Bruce Bingham's 'ferro cement - design, techniques and application', he advises using a type II cement and adding a fly ash pozzalan. Rugby sulphate cement is a type II (slower chemical reaction) a