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Yanmar Exhaust Elbow


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He was selling them on trademe. Had a look, nothing. It was about 4 years ago though sorry, trying to wrack the grey matter to remember where he was but I think he was south island. Will try to find out.

 

Found it: ($150).

Jeff Christensen

OK, located another email (2013!) and he didn't make it but might know who does?. Lives in Kerikeri. I shall now go hide my own easter eggs! Good luck.

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So, on further research it looks like the following models all use the same elbow

Used on the following engines: 2GM, 2GMF, 2GM20F, 2GM20FUE, 3GMFYE, 3GMD, 3HM, 3HMF, 3HM35F, 3HM35, 3GM30, 3GM30F

 

If this is the case it makes it a bit easier to find one.

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made one using galvanized water pipe,put a nipple in on angle,about 150mm down from bend,never had a water back flow problem,4yrs on still there. previous elbow was steel as well lasted 15yrs.

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made one using galvanized water pipe,put a nipple in on angle,about 150mm down from bend,never had a water back flow problem,4yrs on still there. previous elbow was steel as well lasted 15yrs.

 Is it simple? Is it cost effective? Yes. Great to see some creativity over the "get a new one" perspective.  :thumbup:

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Just got an answer from the guy who I bought mine off. He imported them from the US!! (OK, its been nearly 5 years since I got ours off him). Gave me this link;

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Mixing-Elbow-for-1GM10-Yanmar-1GM10-2GM-128170-13530-316SS/352423345141?hash=item520e117bf5:g:ZRYAAOSwKrhVfDwa&_sacat=0&_nkw=yanmar+GM20+exhaust&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

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welded 316SS is not a good idea in this application, the chlorides in the salt water and the sulphur residues in the exhaust will vigorously attack the welds.

Welded steel pipe galvanised is a much better budget option

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Oh what a coincident, I just checked my one yesterday... I shouldn't have. One more thing on my list. I think I'll make it from S/S tubes, TIG welded and purged. I might make two just in case.... It will be a mission to remove it.

Exhoust.jpg

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You've had a raw water leak? Our original yanmar made elbow looked bad but when we removed it was actually in good nic. It was lined in some bronze paint and cleaned out, looked like new. Take it off and clean the soot out for a good look before buying a replacement.

Speaking of leaking raw water, a word of warning for 2GM20 owners. The head anode when removed is liable to drop water on a oil feed pipe that runs from the block to the head. After some years of replacing anodes, our oil pipe finally leaked oil everywhere off Tutukaka as its steel and corroded through. Only an issue for raw water cooled engines. (4 hours sailing into a head wind, no motor to get into Tutukaka!)

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Apparently I don't have leak, but the rust murk telling me it wasn't always like that. I did not planed to do too much with the engine, apart from oil change and anodes, but I have to deal with this for a couple of reason, #1, I don't need any water leak, #2 if I going to get folding prop, I need every single HP out from the engine, so worth it to clean the soot at least. I already started to make up my version for this out of stainless steel, I'll post some pictures about the progress. Not as difficult (obviously the welded version not the cast). When I checked the suggested sources I decided to give it a try.

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Apparently I don't have leak, but the rust murk telling me it wasn't always like that. I did not planed to do too much with the engine, apart from oil change and anodes, but I have to deal with this for a couple of reason, #1, I don't need any water leak, #2 if I going to get folding prop, I need every single HP out from the engine, so worth it to clean the soot at least. I already started to make up my version for this out of stainless steel, I'll post some pictures about the progress. Not as difficult (obviously the welded version not the cast). When I checked the suggested sources I decided to give it a try.

Will watch with interest nagy, good luck. I have heard of fibreglass elbows but fibreglass burns?

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Apparently I don't have leak, but the rust murk telling me it wasn't always like that. I did not planed to do too much with the engine, apart from oil change and anodes, but I have to deal with this for a couple of reason, #1, I don't need any water leak, #2 if I going to get folding prop, I need every single HP out from the engine, so worth it to clean the soot at least. I already started to make up my version for this out of stainless steel, I'll post some pictures about the progress. Not as difficult (obviously the welded version not the cast). When I checked the suggested sources I decided to give it a try.

Replace it.Ours was rusty looking and thought she ll be right,11.30pm middle of tiri passage she let go,amazing how much water can be pumped in  in a short time.soot through yacht,.20hr drift back to panmure

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Replace it.Ours was rusty looking and thought she ll be right,11.30pm middle of tiri passage she let go,amazing how much water can be pumped in  in a short time.soot through yacht,.20hr drift back to panmure

Basil (Pink Cadillac) told me his blew and water got INTO the engine! Said it looked fine from the outside, no way to tell unless you take the mixing elbow off. The reason why we replaced ours.

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We just replaced mixing elbow on our 15QM $400.00 for the elbow thought standard 1.5 in bsp pipe socket that goes into the elbow found out elbow left hand thread now know why we couldn’t get the old one out so another $108.00 for the left to right hand socket.Am keen to see how your one works out.Ours was 6 years old and we cleaned it out once so about a $100.00 a year.Motor does run a lot smoother and pumps a lot more water.Have heard of some expensive experiences when they have failed

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