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Rebuild vs Replace


mcp

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I have a marinised Shibaura S753 [Perkins 104-10, Perkins Perama M30, Volvo MD2030, Caterpillar 3003, ford 1220 and there are lots more places this engine has been used].  It is a solid little engine that has found its way into lots of equipment, machinery and tractors, so parts are no problem at reasonable prices or full rebuild kits for that matter.

It has unknown hours or history. It does start easy if glow plugs are heated from cold or if warm no issue at all, no smoke under load either.  But I would just prefer the piece of mind of a semi blank slate on the history of a boat engine.  

 

I am more than capable of removing and installing an engine either existing or new.  I would not rebuild one myself,  that is beyond my skill level. 

 

So what are some pros and cons?  What have been your experiences?  Suggestions?  Recommended mechanics? 

 

I am really struggling to make up my mind. 

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I have a marinised Shibaura S753 [Perkins 104-10, Perkins Perama M30, Volvo MD2030, Caterpillar 3003, ford 1220 and there are lots more places this engine has been used]. It is a solid little engine that has found its way into lots of equipment, machinery and tractors, so parts are no problem at reasonable prices or full rebuild kits for that matter.

It has unknown hours or history. It does start easy if glow plugs are heated from cold or if warm no issue at all, no smoke under load either. But I would just prefer the piece of mind of a semi blank slate on the history of a boat engine.

 

I am more than capable of removing and installing an engine either existing or new. I would not rebuild one myself, that is beyond my skill level.

 

So what are some pros and cons? What have been your experiences? Suggestions? Recommended mechanics?

 

I am really struggling to make up my mind.

Starts well and no smoke. Sounds good to me. Maybe get a compression leak down test and oil analysis and if all good, as Maté said, go sailing.

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In my view, the main problem with marine engines are the ancillary equipment, Water pump, HE,  engine mounts, engine brackets, drive damper plate, exhaust elbow etc.

And can have less reliability (i.e. things failing and constantly fixing things) that are attached to the engine. The engine itself can run fine, doesn't mean you can use it...

 

It can cost almost as much as the engine to replace the gearbox on an old engine, and you are still left with an old engine. 

 

So the answer to the question depends on what your priorities are. If there is a problem with the engine operation now (using oil, big knocks) and everything else is fine, then maybe a re-build. I looked into this, and ended up with a new engine. If you aren't going to do it all yourself, there is still a fair bit of outlay to get it done, and you still have all the old ancillary parts bolted on. If you replace all the ancillary parts, you will spend as much as a new engine...

 

If your current engine has died and you can't afford a new one, then yes, rebuild.

If you just want 'peace of mind', I wouldn't bother, there is no garuntee a rebuild will be any better.

If you want to keep the boat for a long time, or do some epic voyage (i.e. circumnavigate), I'd go for the new engine. but only if you are planning on using it, doesn't sound like you'd recover the cost if you sold the boat.

 

PS, there is a good market for working used marine engines. It is not economic for a lot of boats to put a new engine in, but if their current engine has died, people will take what they can get. If your engine is good, but you want a new one, you can sell yours as a working engine. Sell it before you take it out of the boat, so buyers can see it running and test it etc.

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Agree with fish. I've been down that track a couple of years ago. Rebuilt still has all the old bits hanging off the side. I went for new for peace of mind. In the end it wasn't a great deal more expensive than a rebuild plus I have a 5 year warranty.

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Hi mcp, I have a complete ( was running) MD2030 on the shelf at work, I am aiming to rebuild it with a kit of pistons/rings/bearings from the UK, it’s about £400 . So I am hoping for around $3000 NZD by the time I’ve added any machine work needed, water pump, etc

 

its destined to replace my 30yo, Volvo 2002, which starts/runs/sounds sweet after thousands of hours use. It just won’t die ! 
 

id love to hear how you get on with the MD2030 rebuild if indeed you do it.  
 

despte hearing endless reports of dud Volvo’s, I really rate my 2002 !

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The main problem with marine engines are the ancillary equipment, Water pump, HE,  engine mounts, engine brackets, drive damper plate, exhaust elbow etc.

And can have less reliability (i.e. things failing and constantly fixing things) that are attached to the engine. The engine itself can run fine, doesn't mean you can use it...

 

 

 

Most of my Ancillary equipment has already been replaced in the last couple of years, except the raw water pump.  I will install a Perama M30 engine gear driven type in place of my current belt driven unit with home made bracket which gives me the shits every time I look at it. 

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Hi mcp, I have a complete ( was running) MD2030 on the shelf at work, I am aiming to rebuild it with a kit of pistons/rings/bearings from the UK, it’s about £400 . So I am hoping for around $3000 NZD by the time I’ve added any machine work needed, water pump, etc

 

its destined to replace my 30yo, Volvo 2002, which starts/runs/sounds sweet after thousands of hours use. It just won’t die ! 

 

id love to hear how you get on with the MD2030 rebuild if indeed you do it.  

 

despte hearing endless reports of dud Volvo’s, I really rate my 2002 !

 

I think Volvos get a unfair rap generally.   I tend to agree the spare parts are a bit up there however. 

 

I will defiantly let you know how I get on with a rebuild and is parts4engines.com in the UK where you are sourcing your rebuild kit from?  

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Rebuilding an engine is not that hard provided you work systematically but it sounds like the motor is sweet. Dont worry about it and just go sailing, you'll find plenty of places to spend that spare coin!

What he said !  If its reliable , has sufficient power and is a sweet runner, just maintain it well and keep the money, if it aint broke dont fix it. 

 

If you are desperate for a new engine try and get one that, does not involve a propellor change, a bigger shaft dia or shifting the exhaust position. None of these are show stoppers but they can add substantial extra cost, there are probably other avoidance factors.

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Hi mcp, I have a complete ( was running) MD2030 on the shelf at work, I am aiming to rebuild it with a kit of pistons/rings/bearings from the UK, it’s about £400 . So I am hoping for around $3000 NZD by the time I’ve added any machine work needed, water pump, etc

 

its destined to replace my 30yo, Volvo 2002, which starts/runs/sounds sweet after thousands of hours use. It just won’t die ! 

 

id love to hear how you get on with the MD2030 rebuild if indeed you do it.  

 

despte hearing endless reports of dud Volvo’s, I really rate my 2002 !

Likewise my 40 year old MD7B and its raw water cooled !

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I think Volvos get a unfair rap generally.   I tend to agree the spare parts are a bit up there however. 

 

I will defiantly let you know how I get on with a rebuild and is parts4engines.com in the UK where you are sourcing your rebuild kit from?  

 

I agree, Ive had a great run with my VolvoPenta and whilst the local parts are pricey, its now very easy to buy offshore at a fraction of the price

 

I havent used parts4engines, but bought my MD2030 rebuild parts from www.keypart.co.uk and highly recommend them for service and price.

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Thank you for the replies so far encouraging me to just go sailing.  But,  here are some pictures that show some of my trust issues with the engine and I hope there will be some extended cruising in my future so I would feel more comfortable if the engine was a known quantity. 

 

So I took these pictures today while I was disconnecting the engine from the boat and tomorrow I will hopefully lift it out.   Also note on the pictures below the damaged power cables...these are non marine grade and the outer jacket has all but disintegrated and felt gel like because of a very slow diesel leak on to them,  which was hidden from view in a cable tidy.   These are both positive cables and had I not found them I suspect a fire would be in my future. Also there was chafe on another end that I was aware of in one of the pictures below. 

Anyway,   I welcome any constructive criticism, advice or tips on any of these pictures and this subject in general. 

 

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Hmm. Engine room needs some work. What's with the cracked bearers etc?

Bit of work ahead even with the same engine. More for a new one...

 

Oh hell yes it needs work and will be getting some reinforcing and a good tidy up.  This boat was always a project.....  :wtf:

 

The bearers aren't actually cracked [hard to believe i know]   its grease and crap sitting on the tabbing.  The tabbing goes to painted ply wood,  which the plate and angle steel are bolted too and engine.  Original engine was a small single cylinder and engine bed was never upgraded for the larger engine now in its place.  

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