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Boat came with the belt for compressor removed.

Therefore presume there is a fault.? Worth investigating? Tending to replace with 12v setup. Jaycar has 35/40L for $400

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Depends whats wrong, and if anyone local will service it. Ist thing would be to check if it has any gas in it - take off the caps on one of the valves on the compressor, and press the center bit - like a bike or car tyre valve usually. If there is no hiss of escaping gas its probably empty. If it does not have a valve like that, its a bit more complex.... 

Have a look, then if needed post a pic...

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Do not buy the waeco tropica??cold/warm useless,as above the waeco cfx 40 is the way to go.can leave running all day/night no problem but like every others chiller food/drink needs to cold first for best result.

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I’m the NZ agent for Ozefridge.

The main issue with cabinet retrofit is insulation quality and thickness. Also, cabinet leaks - penetrations, seals, etc. It does not matter if you buy a cheap plate style unit like the burnsco one above, or a decent twin tank eutectic type, if the cabinet is not well insulated. Insulation degrades over time, but how fast depends on cabinet design, seals, and condition.

For anyone wanting to make a good job of this, send me an email or pm, and I’ll give you some info on testing cabinets heat loss, using a block of ice.

Or you can read it on the Ozefridge website - in the cabinet ideas section.

Thin plate systems have little hold over capability - they will run more than a good eutectic (holdover) system.

Boats tend to have two states of available electricity - feast or famine. Good systems will use power when it’s plentiful, so they don’t have to run for the longest possible time when it’s not. This, of course, is more important in a cruiser out for longer periods, than it is in a day or weekend boat.

The reason that some of the compressor driven bin units work pretty well is down to their insulation.
 

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