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Antifouling

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Has anyone out there used Jotun antifouling. have used Hempel not happy with results.

any recomendations

1995 a couple of tins of Jotun found there way out of the naval base and somehow got applied to my yacht,lasted 3 yrs in tamaki river no problem but next batch was useless,hempels was good  but  batch we used in 2015 useless,altex no 10 was good but now off the market. copper coat is the way to go but finding a decent applicator is the answer.

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We are satisfied with Coppercoat. possible at 6 or 7 years now. We applied it ourselves. Had minor blistering on one side of the keel after 4 or 5 years. We believe that was the shaded side and it was a little damp on application.

I would recommend applying it yourself, but read the instructions, wait a week, read the instructions again, think about the application issues, and plan it like a military operation. I think the commercial applicators rush too much, esp with regard to weather, humidity etc

 

Don't bother trying to make your own, the devil is in the detail, even Lateral has tried it and failed. The detail is in the water soluble aspects of the resin, if you use normal resin it flat out wont work (they aren't water soluble) - refer to comments above about doing your reading first, understanding it (actually understanding it all, how it works, how to apply it, how it goes wrong...)

 

Given the cost of preparing the hull (full strip back, re-interprotect etc) trying to use a DIY product is a monumental waste of money and time. The cost of the product isn't that bad, its the cost of preperation and commercial application that adds $$$, more so if you are also paying for a commercial hardstand. It is an absolute false economy trying to save money with a DIY product. If you want to do that, why not make your own conventional antifoul? No one does that do they?

 

In terms of performance, CC is not as good as a top shelf antifoul (with all the old ingredients in it, which you can't get anymore), but we need to clean down every 6 months or so. If I were racing, it would need a far more regular clean, i.e. before any big event. It tends to foul up in maybe 4 weeks, then doesn't get any worse for several months. After maybe 4-5 months the barnacles start, which is what initiates the need for a dry out and clean down. Perfectly good for cruising. But being a hard product, you can dive on it easy, no ablative clouds of sh*t in the water. Oh, and it lasts 10 yrs easy, so no more annual haul out. You still need to do your zincs and running gear, but we do them on grids between tides

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Has anyone out there used Jotun antifouling. have used Hempel not happy with results.

any recomendations

Jotun would have to be to be the worst antifouling ever made.

Of the conventional products I am still hearing good reports about Altex No 5 and from one user of Micron AP.

As has been discussed previously Micron 66 used to be the gold standard, but Micron 77 is no where near as effective.

Good to hear that Fish is happy with Copper Coat, as I have heard first hand from quite a few unhappy users. Common feedback seems to be it is good for about 3 years and thereafter not very effective. Maybe they have changed their brew over time

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DIY, just have to get the right size copper powder and right mix. A few practice run and youre away :)

 

No.  Just no.  Spend the money and get the right stuff or you are wasting time, effort and money.

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Copper coat 3 years. Limpets, barnacles and rock oysters certainly cannot get a foothold. Bit of weedy stuff ,fairly easy to get off, went right over with a scotchbrite at one point that seemed to improve its effectiveness.few mussels got a hold in the corner between keel and hull.

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Comparing my copper coat "like" application with Ultra 2 was not an objective comparison.

Bearing in mind I used west105 instead of waterbased epoxy and was pretty lazy on cleaning

abraiding it was ok. Cheap tho as I imported my own 300 mesh spherical copper.

 

The ultra 2 grew oysters on keel where it sat in mud on low tide at marina.

(It was AF'd there)

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There is a major point being missed here. The first post (Tiller?) complained about the poor performance of the AF's he has used lately. The question is, what type of AF is being used, as in, straight copper, self polishing, self eroding and Ablative and just what is it that the Boat owner is wanting or expecting his Hull to look like after X many months.
For any of the Coatings (OTHER than pure Copper), they have two parts to them to do the job. Copper to stop shell fish growth and biocide to stop plant life. If it is just keeping shell fish off the Hull, Copper Coat and any other product wirh copper in it will work just fine.
However, if it is slime and weed growth that is your concern, Copper does not stop it. If you go for Copper Coat, you will still get slime and plant growth and this needs to be cleaned off manually.

This is very important:
AF coatings, as I listed above, work in different ways, respective of the type. If you sit in a Marina for long periods and yet the Hull seems to be dirty, this could be due to using an Ablative or Self Polishing Coating. These two coatings need decent water speed, ie, boat under way, to have the growth fall off. If you do not take the boat out much, then expect the Hull to be dirty while in the Marina or Mooring if you don't get much water flow. Self Polishing is the only one that self releases the surface keeping itself clean, even in still water.
So make sure you are not blaming a poor result on something the coating is not designed to do in the first place.
 

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