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how do you get rid of oxidation


nz moth

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First off, thank you Mr Wolf for giving me a quick "how to" tutorial. It worked a treat. The new Makita is great. Very grunty and far easier to use than the old machine.

 

Actually I've worked out the most cost effective way to get the results I want. First off I use Grunt Kleenashine as it gets rid of the "top layers" of the oxidation & then I use the Farecla G3 to work off the "embedded" oxidation. (The Kleenashine is much cheaper than the G3) It's getting absolutely all of it off that takes forever. The photos below show the result of around 3 hours work. It's killing me as I'm seriously out of condition but it'll be worth it in the end...

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Excellent info BTS, for those of us with smaller boats is the magical inter-dispersionary micro pigment technology an available option or is it also difficult to obtain and apply. I'd love to have a cheery red hull that will last.

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Great post BTS.

To add if I may, another reason for fading of yellow and Red is due to the pigment itself. The pigments of Red and Yellow are Cadmium compounds and Cadmium quickly turns to it's Cadmium Salts when exposed to light. So these colours tend to fade faster than other colours due to the pigment as well as the resins as BTS has explained, breaking down.

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What should be done to avoid oxidation?

 

 

 

Good house keeping. Wash and polish to keep salts from forming on the surface of the paint. Salt will intensify UV like a magnifying Glass. It is also aggressive.

 

Good polish with a UV filter will help.

 

Also need to be very careful when when polishing some paints, if you polish a Linear polyurethane too much you will actually take away a lot of its protection and the coating will prematurely go chalky.

 

Not every product needs the same care so recommend finding out what coating you are dealing with.

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