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Chewing Gum

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The north channel is an option but you end up sideways to the swell and I understand it has changed from what is shown on the chart. I have crossed that way a long time ago. South channel is the way I prefer, as I said we had 4.5m at LW but swell must be less than 2m and incoming tide.

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Our water capacity was around 300L which was plenty for the four guys on board. LPG capacity was 4x 5kg which was also plenty even though we used the oven quite a lot and baked bread, scones and cakes. There is LPG refilling available in Oban but not in Fiordland.

For communication we used VHF, SSB and a Predictwind communicator. The Predictwind communicator was a very handy piece of kit and particularly useful when we were out of Cellphone range. It gave us automatic weather updates twice daily, email capability and tracking. It was very easy to use and reliable and as it operates through the Iridium Satellite network it gives worldwide capability for a reasonable price providing you restrict the amount of email traffic. In Fiordland we reported to Meri Leask at Bluff Fishermans Radio, a very helpful lady. For the rest of our voyage we did not bother with trip reports as we had both the tracker and email reports daily via the Communicator.

In Breaksea sound we visited 2nd and 3rd coves, Beach Harbour and Sunday Cove. In 3rd cove we experienced probably our strongest winds with gusts over 50knots. Our 20kg Rocna anchor held well while a large charter dive boat dragged right out of the bay! At sea the strongest headwinds we encountered were about 35kts off Farewell spit which resulted in a rather rough ride, but as mentioned earlier we tried to avoid strong headwinds whenever possible. Dusky sound was very interesting because of the history with visits to Pickersgill Harbour where we tied up in the same place as Captain Cook’s ship Resolution and Luncheon Cove. This was very sheltered spot and the site of the first ship and the first house built by Europeans in NZ. Chalky Inlet was our next stop and we holed up in in Lake Cove to wait out some stormy weather and explore the Lumaluma river and Lakes Cadman and Carrick. There were a couple of hydrographic vessels in the area at the time. Next move was around into Preservation Inlet through the broke Adrift passage which was quite spectacular and perhaps a little unnerving with 5m swells breaking on the Balleny reef nearby.

A visit to the privately owned Kisbee lodge was great with a helicopter landing at the front door while were there. This is practically the only way of getting to the very remote retreat and I think it is probably the only privately owned residence in the whole of Fiordland Here we also walked some of the tramway track to the old gold mines and tried our luck at gold panning with not a lot of success although there were lots of specks in the sand.. We went to see the reclining chimney from an old gold/silver mine in Isthmus Sound while waiting out another spell of bad weather. This area also has a lot of history of mining, sealing and timber milling and of course the famed Puyseger Point lighthouse. The walk to the lighthouse was great although a tramper we met said the day previously he could not stand up at the lighthouse because of the wind! The anchorage here in Otago retreat was a little exposed to the 3m swell running outside so we did the walk in 2 shifts to keep an eye on the boat. The walk was also useful to check out the conditions in the narrow, shallow exit between Puyseger and Coal Island as we intended to head for Port Pegasus , Stewart island that evening to time the tide right around the bottom of the island. As it turned out apart from a fairly big sea running in the channel our exit was uneventful with a cray boat following us out reassuring us conditions were manageable. We started out on the wind but as the trip progressed the wind swung further West as forecast and we had one of our best sails around South West Cape and reached our Southernmost point at 47 degrees 22min S.

Pegasus was great with sheltered anchorages, abundant wildlife and seafood, great walks and no sandflies. The weather however was somewhat damp to start with but did improve as we headed north towards Oban. Our favourite anchorages here were Disappointment cove, Northern Evening Cove and Seal Creek. Walks to Magog and the Tin range were challenging but rewarding. The areas remoteness and untouched nature was a particular appeal. As we headed north we explored the Lords River and Port Adventure which was interesting for the muttonbirders substantial buildings perched on top of the many islands nearby.

Arrival in Half Moon Bay was our first return to civilisation for a long time so after refuelling it was off to the Pub and the Four Square in that order! I must say the people on Stewart Island and also the few we met in Fiordland were always friendly and ready to help in any way possible and the slower pace of life definitely appealing . Apparently on Stewart Island there are 600 cars and 400 residents but I am not sure where they go as there are only about 30km of roads total and to drive between the most distant points by road is only about 7km ! Talk about laid back, when we hired a car I said do you want to see my license – no, do you want a deposit – no. Paterson Inlet is quite a large harbour with good anchorages and walks particularly on Ulva Island and Ocean beach where a highlight was watching Kiwi dig up sandhoppers in the middle of the night – you need a DOC permit to do this independently. The old Norwegian whalers base in Prices Inlet was also very interesting.

To be continued

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If anyone is contemplating a similar trip we will be selling most of the charts we used around NZ and also charts for Marlborough and Cook strait. A lot of them are near new and they will all be $10 each.

I would prefer to sell them as a package - PM me if interested

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From Stewart Island we headed for Dunedin and had fair winds and flat seas across the notorious Foveaux Strait for our overnight passage. For entry to Otago Harbour you need clearance from Harbour control and the same in New Plymouth but both were very helpful. We refuelled at Careys Bay and after a night on a mooring proceeded up harbour to the Otago Yacht club to wait out Cyclone Lusi which apart from some rain was a bit of a non event. Kevin Martin at the club was very helpful, rearranging some boats to give us a walk on berth in the small marina. The entrance was interesting with about 0.5m under the keel an hour before HW. It is only soft mud though so not really an issue if you touched. While there we had a look at the stadium and did the Speights tour ending with an as much as you could drink in half an hour !

On to Akaroa in good weather and warming temperatures. We refuelled at the main wharf then a shower at the yacht club after a visit to the pub to celebrate Pete’s birthday. Next morning we were off North in favourable fresh southeasterlies in company with Diomedia an Australian yacht we had met earlier in Milford. We had an amazing ride and went nonstop over four days all the way to the Mercurys stopping for lunch and on to Oneroa overnight before forecast Westerlies arrived. A good size albacore off White island being a bonus. On our trip around NZ we saw lots of Albatross, Hectors dolphins and the odd whale. A great adventure !

Photos to be added

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Great report

Love to see some photos also

I know what you mean about the cold, it was the thing we underestimated the most in the RNZ race

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I enjoyed reading that. Heather and I did RNI in the original Regardless and the South Is. a few years back in Pebble Rebel, but went round the other way and fortunately had light easterly and bright sunshine through Foveaux Strait and round the dreaded Puysegur Pt. You can't help good luck.

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Guest Saturday Night Special

Did you and Heather not also go RNI in Result as well and were just in front of the nasty front that hamered the fleet behind you Brave people in a boat with inline spreader rig and running backstays .

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Yes we did do the first one in Result and the next borrowed Crossfire off son Kevin, but I don't remember the foul weather in Result. We did put on a bit of an act before Gisborne, but that was just a squall.

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Guest Saturday Night Special

you tried to get dad to build a crossfire instead of the demon 10 when we got the plans off you on your mums driveway

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What fantastic Pictures. I want my money back from the Paint shop. Sandlfy point looks nothing like the Colour I got :wink:

Helensville looks rather drab and boring compared to the other Pics.

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Hi Wheels

The Kaipara is actually pretty interesting and underated as well as very good fishing. It is great for gunkholing and has some very nice anchorages, no sandflies, is warmer and less wind than the deep south. It is also not as far and still relatively few boats. Still quite a way from Auckland tho and you do need settled weather on that bar so a summertime only bar crossing is probably best.

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