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new to me boat project, storfidra 26


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am the new owner of vindil

 

probably nz's only storfidra 26, sailed here from sweden

 

a small, solid, slow, 1970 swedish double-ended, similar to mini-westerly 32

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=storfid ... 66&bih=653

 

was on trademe recently

 

my first boat with an engine

 

going to be a lot of work to get it back to where it should be after 3 years stuck on its okahu bay mooring

 

was wondering what my options are with this otherwise good looking anchor chain

bad chain.JPG

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Hard to really tell from the pic, but the rest of the chain is looking pretty light on Galv as well. If it is a temporary fix, go for it, but I suspect you may be looking for new chain rather than just a joining link.

And no, don't weld a link.

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am the new owner of vindil

Yay. I have the Spencer right next to Vindil. I've been watching her for the last couple of years wondering what was happening - so pleased that someone's going to do something with her - she's such an awesome looking little boat.

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If you aren't married it could be a great boat, anyone else notice there's a different lady in each photo? :thumbup:

 

Looks like a ripper to do some distances in, might not be fast miles but they should be safe ones.

 

That chain's an easy to do safe fix. $20 at most... plus a black thumbnail from where you slipped with the hammer while putting it in. You'd think the blackened nail would be optional but it seems to be close to compulsory........ or should that be 'inevitable'? :?

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if you see me tied up and pottering inside

 

stop by to say hi

 

i have the use of the mooring until the end of the year

 

yesterday was flying the foresails to dry them out

 

but there must be a better way to get leaked diesel off them

 

next up will be to replace the 7? year old batteries that will not longer hold a charge or crank the engine

storm sail small.JPG

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hi all,

like most 2nd hand yachts, Vidil came with an installed vhf

 

lucky for me, as a recent world cruiser it has a reasonable new + high spec JMC RT-2500 with full DSC-MMSI

 

a DSC signal uses a stable signal with a narrow bandwidth and the receiver has no squelch, it has a slightly longer range than analog signals,[1] with up 25 percent longer range and significantly faster.[2] DSC senders are programmed with the ship's Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) and may be connected to the ship's Global Positioning System (GPS), which allows the apparatus to know who it is, what time it is and where it is. This allows a distress signal to be sent very quickly.[1]

 

when turned on it briefly flashes up its unique and registered MMSI number

 

MMSI number is a 9-digit code issued by the host country agency for use in VHF marine radio equipment, AIS transponders, EPIRB's, and all INMARSAT satellite terminals. By international agreement

 

each of the 9 digits has a meaning

 

The initial digits of an MMSI categorize the identity, as defined in by Recommendation M.585.[1] The meaning of the first digit is:

 

0 Ship group, coast station, or group of coast stations

1 For use by SAR aircraft (111MIDaxx)[note 1][2]

2-7 MMSI's used by individual ships, beginning with an MID:

2 Europe (e.g., Italy has MID 247; Denmark has MIDs 219 and 220)

3 North and Central America and Caribbean (e.g., Canada, 316; Panama, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 370, 371, 372, and 373)

4 Asia (e.g., PRC, 412, 413, and 414; Maldives, 455)

5 Oceana (Australia, 503)

6 Africa (Eritrea, 625)

7 South America (Peru, 760)

8 Handheld VHF transceiver with DSC and GNSS[3]

9 Devices using a free-form number identity:[2]

Search and Rescue Transponders (970yyzzzz)[note 2][4][note 3][5]

Man overboard DSC and/or AIS devices (972yyzzzz)[note 2]

406 MHz EPIRBs fitted with an AIS transmitter (974yyzzzz)[note 2]

craft associated with a parent ship (98MIDxxxx)[note 4]

navigational aids (AtoNs; 99MIDaxxx)[note 5]

 

Vindil's radio MMSI number is 219011260

 

which is a danish #, nz's is 512xxxxxx

 

so it should be changed and i see from searching here that the westhaven coastguard office issues the numbers in auckland

 

but now i find

 

All DSC capable radios limit the number of times you can program an MMSI into them. Older units generally allow an MMSI to be logged in TWICE, but the newer models are mostly limited to ONE MMSI login attempt only. If you exceed the MMSI entry attempt limit, the radio will lock out any future attempts, forcing you to send the unit to the manufacturer for reprogramming. Be sure to read the owner’s manual regarding that restriction, and please be careful when initially entering your newly assigned MMSI number into the unit.

 

and in the manual it says

 

You can only program your radio

once with an MMSI number. After

that, send your radio to Jmc for

factory service

 

hmmmm...............

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Yep, that is pretty normal. The official service agents should have the info to reset it to the factory "unused" state, but it is not meant to be in the public domain - too easy for idiots to enter any old thing, and the system loses most of it's value if the wrong numbers are used.

 

AIS units are the same (or should be - some from ASIA are not).

 

Good luck!

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my biggest hurdle in getting vindil off the mooring and sailing is the non-running engine

 

a vetus M2.06, (2 cyl 16hp, current production)

 

http://www.vetus.com/engines-and-around ... m2-06.html

 

last week google seemed to suggest a bad fuel shut-off solenoid

 

but it seems to check out fine

- you can hear it click when key is turned to 'off'

- you can push the manual shut-down plunger and feel it work

- you can even push the plunger while cycling the key and feel the solenoid push your finger back

so it seems it's not responsible for the fuel problems:o(

 

the low pressure fuel lift pump seems ok as you can cycle it and prime fuel with its little lever

 

so now suspicion falls on the high pressure injector fuel pump

 

for 2 reasons

 

1 - if it were working there should be a squirt when an injector connection is loosened

 

2 - the whole engine is yellow, except for that pump and the bolts associated with it

ie it's caused problems before and has probably been replaced

 

unfortunately the pump is built into the engine and while vetus have been good about also putting the engine parts breakdown on the web i have been unable to find the vetus service manual which would tell me how to get it out...

 

however they have put the base engine type in the manual, Mitsubishi L2E

 

and google had the service manual for that, so now i can start reading and thinking about that in more detail and hopefully next time i'm on board that pump can come out and i can start exploring that new world

 

vetus engines are often criticized for having their filters etc on the right side of the engine instead of the front like yanmar etc, fortunately i can sort of squeeze into the galley shelves and have reasonable access to everything

DSC_2207zmsm.jpg

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hmmm................

 

these sage words from the mitsi/vetus service manual, plus a few knowledgeable opinions suggest i should be checking engine compression before going much further down the injection rabbit hole ($3000 for vetus injector pump)

 

Problems caused by the faulty injection pump, faulty injection nozzles and

improper cylinder compression, give similar symptoms

 

When judging the cause of trouble from examination, be careful to make

conclusion because it can be very complicated.

 

so before i head off to repco and put down $290 for a diesel compression tester

 

300928.jpg

 

http://tradecatalogues.repco.co.nz/Mega ... Kit/300928

 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renov ... 770791.htm

 

anyone willing to rent (with bond) me theirs?

 

if so please pm

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am the new owner of vindil . . .

going to be a lot of work to get it back to where it should be after 3 years stuck on its okahu bay mooring

 

Perhaps it could be the fuel :?:

 

After 3 years of being unused, Cleaning the tank and fuel lines out would be a first step. There was a lot of diesel bug about a few years ago, probably still around, but I'm not an engineer. Could be cheaper to get an expert in first.

 

I would suggest you change fuel if not all filters first.

Does the first filter have a glass bowl so you can see moisture / crap the filter has stopped :?:

 

How about trying a clean / new 10L jerry can of FRESH fuel and just suck "new" fuel into your motor. Let the return stay to existing tank. Then clean out main fuel tank which could now contain crap etc in injector exhaust and fuel return line.

 

On one yacht we fitted a outboard type squeeze bulb, a lot faster and more efficient than using the little lever fitted on most engines as part of the very fine filter.

 

Hiring a marina berth for say a couple of weeks would certainly make sorting out problems so much easier and more people may be more inclined to help sort suck issues out. :thumbup:

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First question, is the battery good? You made mention about the House batt being on the way out. What about the engine start? Slow to turn and our colder weather at this time of year can lead to starting failure.

Before you try starting, push the engine throttle all the way forward and then pull back to high idle. The rack is then locked in a prestart position that ensures extra fuel is shunted in till the engine fires, then the rack clicks back to normal.

1 - if it were working there should be a squirt when an injector connection is loosened

Not always. But crank engine as you slowly nip up the injector again and that should have bleed all the air out. You only need to do one. Once engine is running, the others will come into life.

Ensure the Fuel is fresh. You may need to disconnect the main supply line and attach the line to a small bottle of fuel. Bleed system to ensure all the fuel gets through to the pump.

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now have the injector pump + injectors out and in the hands of a denso agent

 

cranking with my fat thumb stuffed in the empty injector hole seems to show compression, but my thumb hasn't been calibrated by years of experience so what do i know...

 

having no engine seemed like a good time to deal with the rusted links in the 9mm anchor chain

 

even rusted they laughed at my hacksaw so dropped the whole lot into the dinghy and brought it home along with the main 15kg bruce anchor and the 5kg spare, both also showing a little rust where the years have ripped of the galv

 

at the carport an angle grinder with cutting disc cut out the bad links from the middle and left 21mt + 10 mt ends

 

then swapped the cutting disc for a wire brush and cleaned the rust off both bruce anchors, before rust treating

 

as suiting a pocket world cruiser the 15kg bruce on on 32mt of 9mm chain + 50mt of 16mm nylon rode, seems well over-spec'd for a 25' local gulf explorer

 

so for now may skip the chain joining link and simply attach the 21mt of chain + rode to the 15kg bruce and the 11mt of chain + some extra rode to previously bare, spare 5kg bruce

 

but before then may drag the lot round a few hot dip people for quote on the whole 100kg?

vindil anchors.JPG

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If you're doing chain go to East Tamaki Galvanisers. They have a spinner so you don't end up with a steel oval reinforced lump of zinc. Some of the other galvanisers will only send it off to ETG for the very same reason.

9mm = 1.8lkg/mt time 3 per kg means around $5.50 to regalv it, plus GST maybe. As good as some galvanisers are they just can't do justice to chain.

 

Take a very close look at that swivel, they are a serious weak link. Not because it's a swivel but because of the swivel it is.

 

Your plan is a very good plan.

 

Oh and you'll probably find it's a 5/16" imperial rather than a true metric 9mm.

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took the vetus - mitsubishi - denso injectors and pump into "diesel services" penrose

 

grahme there took everything apart, fitted about $150 of parts, charged about $150 in labour and gave them back

 

he pointed out that injector shims i thought were missing were actually stuck up in the injector bodies, where they often hide

 

to make up for the missing injector pump base shim i cut couple from the side an alloy drink can

 

can wall was only about 0.2mm so needed 2 to lift the pump to basic start setting

 

back on the boat everything bolted + torqued back up

 

the engine fired up and ran!

 

poured about 10ltr of fresh diesel in the tank and the engine laboured on for about 2 minutes, then died

 

tried again with added throttle but revs didn't budge a single rpm:o(

 

cracked the front cyl injector union a tiny bit, saw a weep of fuel, but engine carried on the same, tightened it back up

 

cracked the back injector - engine immediately stalled

 

repeated, same

 

so it's great the engine is running again but it looks like it's only on the back cyl.

 

 

 

the front cyl. gets fuel, but no compression?

 

took off the valve cover, all the tappet adjusters looked and felt ok when crank rotated so presumably the valves are seating

 

looking a lot like the engine needs to come out

 

broken ring?

 

have read of exhausts ports clogging up with carbon if engine only ever run at idle

 

and manual says to check exhaust

 

would a blocked exhaust port stop a cyl from firing?

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