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Anyone know if there is a max/min distance apart for stanchion placing? Can't see anything in the Regs but the analness they get into over smaller less consequential things has me thinking 'surely there must be something??"

 

Anyone got any theories on anything stanchion? You just never know whose got a damn cunning plan tucked away in their head.... and often doesn't know it.

 

What material would you use for your stanchions given the choice?

 

I am pre 87 so can use anything by the look of the book.

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You've come to the right place. Quote from the rules below:

 

 

For keel yachts over 8.53m (28ft)

overall

Taut double lifelines, with upper lifeline of wire at a height of not less than 60cm (2ft) above the working deck, side and stern to be permanently supported at intervals of not more than 2.15m (7ft). When the cockpit opens aft to the sea, additional lifelines shall be fitted so that no opening is greater in height than 38cm (15in).

 

The YNZ Safety rules are online on their site.

I was the one that first got composite stanchions through MSA (as it was then), and the base details, in the 1990's. Now common on many boats. Contact Kilwell's Fibretube in Rotorua for stanchions and the matching tube for their bases. The base of each stanchion needs to extend at least 80mm into the boat, and be well glassed in. Way better than SS ones, and likely a similar price when you include bolts, sealant etc

Talk to yourself about the fibre going between stanchions!

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Ah ha, I see a 2.15mts sneaked into the back end of a para in the Regs. I would have expected it to be more prominent than that.... but in fairness to the publication I did go into the book 1st thing Monday and before coffee.  2.15mt is OK I can work with that. 

 

Recess glass stanchions in? Hadn't considered that but a quick think has me sort of liking the idea. Easy to whip up then whack in some sockets as I was modifying the gunwale where the stanchions go anyway so they can be attached properly. The gear that came off struggled when a Bumblebee landed on them and we could never get the stanchions firm (and so the lines were always limp) due to the silly way they had been installed, they looked the part but couldn't be called a safety item.

 

Yes I'm in intense discussions with myself over the use of fibre rather than wire. Part of me wants fibre and the other part doesn't want wire so I can see where that's going to end :D

 

 

Why are the newer boats not allowed to use composite stanchions?

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Carbon has not been allowed ever for stanchions, as it was deemed too brittle under a human impact. 

 

But otherwise not sure why new boats don't have them. Habit perhaps?

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Hi Grant,

 

Just been down this road as you are aware.

 

Unless the rules are different across the ditch to here you can use Carbon stanchions and have made my own, using NZ product.

 

Comments so far ... all positive, so why don't you. I have fitted them into Ronstan bases and all is neat.

 

See what happens first time some one bounces off them but .... don't expect any issues.

 

Next is to get the lifelines from NZ ... ohhh that will be you.

 

Chao, David

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Carbon has not been allowed ever for stanchions, as it was deemed too brittle under a human impact. 

 

But otherwise not sure why new boats don't have them. Habit perhaps?

On boats post 1987*, I'm a 1984 ;)

But I know what you mean about brittle, had a few black masts come down around my ears and that's no fun at all.

 

I am assuming that 'age date' means how old it is.. but then being written as it is maybe its not.

 

I am putting a system onto her no other lead swingers seems to be using, some for obvious reasons but no idea why a lot aren't. That's going to require some jiggery pokery to the pulpit and there will be a few things happening, or geared up to happen, with the pushpit as well so I think the best option to make those happen is in SS tube, sooooo a ponder last evening had me thinking SS on the ends and maybe glass in the middle.

 

But the last glass stanchions I fondled were blood heavy. I do have a set of very nicely made tapered alloy ones that weigh nothing.

 

Oh, so many options and so few working brain cells. I'll ponder further as I tweak the stanchion zones in the next few days. That being cutting out 400mm odd of the continuous with no gaps bow to stern toe rail. Flat surface to work with the stanchions and a exit for the very occasional small amount of water that can lurk. Its also part of the strengthening upgrade.

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