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Guest Monster mash

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Guest Monster mash

I'm looking to put new windows in me yacht. :( doesn't seem to be many crowds who undertake this work; can anyone suggest a crowd that cuts, installs etc

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For a second today, I thought I might have cracked the search function by remembering one of the people that posted and including them as an author in the search. But nah, it is still not flash. And for the record, Booboo spells his name with zeros, not o's. And is quite a frequent poster in the SR26 forum.

 

Here it is though, was impressed by the depth of knowledge at the time.

 

http://crew.net.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7959

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Hands down that thread has the best advice ever for putting in Windows. I'm a professional boatbuilder and the way explained there is the best way I've ever used.

Also the stuff they recommend is very inexpensive and works great.

Our windows still look great and don't leak a drop.

 

Its a pretty easy job to do yourself.

we got the windows cut out to size professionally, and edges radiused.

We just had to sand off the machining marks, a friend of mine got the windows through Cookson Boats.

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Guest Monster mash

Cheers Rangi googled Alternative Boat Windows and the chap sorted me out no problems I have gone the for toughened glass option, hopefully I should never have to deal with leaky shitty windows again ...on this boat anyway.

 

Thanks again

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Is that before or after the paint job?

All happening at once. It's going to get very ugly.

 

Keel, windows, 4 hatches, mast tweaking, more halyards, steaming light, galley re-jig, stereo with boom box, Cat 2 and even the paint :shock:

 

Maybe even my hydraulic drive unit installed and walk through transom, given enough time.

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I have gone the for toughened glass option

No expert in these matters but I sailed on a boat where the owner ordered toughened glass and then found that they would not take the curve around the cabin. If you have the traditional-style two large/three small windows (e.g. Townson or Stewart 34) my guess would be it will work fine; if you have one long run each side (Elliott, Young etc) it might be worth double-checking with the guy.

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KM - That list of jobs looks very familiar.

I've been out of the water since November.

Just a couple of deck leaks - Yeah right!! Half the cockpit came out in the end.

I'm at Chch airport, waiting to fly back to Welly to work on boat instead of spending the weekend at Mt Hutt :evil:

Not that I've checked the weather to see if Skiing is even possible, don't want to know.

 

Just need to get the lead poured into new keel case, get the boatbuilder to fit the floors, finish sanding the deck, paint, fit all new stanchions and 3 chainplates, 4 winches, new genoa tracks.

No problem!! :D

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And two of my windows are leaking.

After repairing all the other leaks, the small ones start to show. I've got armoured glass, and I think the curve is too much for these 2 windows as they leak in the same place.

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There is a new product out now. It is brand new. I will try and get the name of it tomorrow. It was designed by head guy in a Glass outfit in CHCH, especially for the Glass industry. A mate of mine is rebuilding his boat and came up with a box load of it. He then went about using Sika Flex and got a right bollocking from the Glass guy when he found out, as this stuf was supposed to be far supperior.

Some tips. Some of it repeated from the link above, but I learnt much of this over the years.

 

Have disposable gloves

and use them.

Turps is good for cleaning, I note the link suggests Meths. I haven't used meths, so worth a try.

Plenty of rags, cotton preferable. Muslin cloth is OK too. It needs to be able to absorb turps and goop. Nylon and poly won't and smears the gunk everywhere.

Dry fit window

before
you put any goop
anywhere.

Mask edge of window to align with edge of frame.

Mask frame. Use a wide Masking tape. The wider the better.

Use a thin rubber strip about 4-5mm thick as spacers to ensure the window sits away from the frame and that the window is supported on. This ensures a 4mm bead of goop is between the window and frame and the edge of the window and frame if your design means it sits inside a rebate. Having the bead is important. Most glass suppliers have this stuff and should be happy to give you heaps.

Make sure you buy yourself a good goop gun. Don't buy those cheap pressed metal ones. These adhesive sealants are thick and take some squirting out.

Squirt a good bead of sealant around the frame. Don't scrimp, use it like you didn't pay for it. One surface only. Don't apply to the Window. It becomes too difficult to handle.

Fit the window bottom into the frame first and then push home. Push hard till the window pushes against the rubber strips. Goop will squeeze out.

Use a putty knife and carefully scrape the excess goop off. I like to run the round edge of the putty knife around the gap and make a nice bead face. You can also run a damp from turps rag around, but personally I like the knife.

Carefully pull the spacers out and fill and knife off those areas. But leave at least a couple of spacers under the bottom edge of the window till the goop starts to go off. This could be several hrs.

Pull the masking tape away. Don't wait till the goop dries. Carefull as the tape will have goop on it and will always end up where you don't want it. Put it directly into a large rubbish bag which you should have on hand by the way.

 

Some use a "damn rubber" as well as the sealant. I have found the sealant is just as good. But many Adhesive Sealants will not bond to perspex long term. So ensure the one you sue does. As stated in the link, SikaFlex requires a primer and it's expensive. But it is good. I haven't used the sealant talked about and am keen to try it.

 

I don't recommend Lexan. It is strong at first, but has less strength than Perspex after just 12months in the Sun. You also have to be very careful about some sealants as the chemicals can break it down. Perspex is more resilliant to scratching. Lexan is terrible.

Glass is much nicer, but much heavier. You MUST use Armour or toughened glass. Multiply the thickness by ten to get an idea of how thick ordinary glass would have to be, to be the same strength.

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KM - That list of jobs looks very familiar.

I've been out of the water since November.

 

Oh thanks for that good news. Since Nov..... Ahgggggg :?

 

Hoping for 1 month max but will miss some boating. But trying to do house at the same time and that bloody annoying work thing. But she is due for a biggie.

 

The problem is the boys will arrive, rum will be opened and a cunning plan will evolve late one evening. The boys will hack into it only to find in the light of the next morning we've created another 2 weeks of work :(

 

I'm looking at laminated glass if I can get it to bend enough. My windows are approx 300mm high by a few meters long so it could be tricky. Glued and screwed.

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Careful KM, laminated doesn't bend to well and can crack. Toughened can be bent if it's not too much of a bend. If it is a big bend, then it can be formed by a Glass outfit to suit the contour.

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If I was doing mine again KM I would just glass up the holes. No leaks and good longitudinal stiffness. Put the window shapes on with black sticky if you need the look!

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Want to take the beast offshore TM, just because I can, so I like screws and I think the rules like them as well but knot sure. I leak in a few places but the windows are fine and with my level of analness the new ones will be also.... or else ;) I have quite an overlap so can get a big wide strip of sticky stuff under to stop any leakage.

 

Yes Mr Wheels but I'm trying to swing the local glass outfit into make them for me with some prebend, they reckon they can do that somehow. A work in progress still though. I have a few weeks until my slot in the shed opens up.

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