Chain to warp

[chariot 242]

Need to replace my anchor warp. Is it better to have the warp spliced direct to the chain or use a thimble and shackle. I use a thimble and moused shackle at the moment but the thimble is too wide for the bow roller cheeks.

I read an article some time ago in a European mag that a warp to chain splice had a greater breaking strain than a spliced thimble. Does anyone know if this is correct?

I would prefer direct chain to warp if possible.

[Chloe 7]

Need to replace my anchor warp. Is it better to have the warp spliced direct to the chain or use a thimble and shackle. I use a thimble and moused shackle at the moment but the thimble is too wide for the bow roller cheeks.

I read an article some time ago in a European mag that a warp to chain splice had a greater breaking strain than a spliced thimble. Does anyone know if this is correct?

I would prefer direct chain to warp if possible.

 

Yes do it. 

[wheels 543]

Don't use a shackle. No thimble required. Splice the line directly through the first and only the first link.
Will you ever consider upgrading the Anchor Winch to one with  a Chain/Rope Gypsy ? If you do, it is worth getting the correct Line to suit.
I also suggest you contact our resident KM, Chief Cook and Bottle washer of Chains Ropes and Anchors. He will supply you the best line to suit your needs and splice it directly to your chain for you if you wish.

[Island Time 1,214]

Why only the 1st link wheels? I find with the back splice through only the 1st link that the splice binds in the winch.....

[wheels 543]

It shouldn't bind if done correctly IT. But I will let KM answer this, as the testing/development of the splice was before I was involved.
They spent a lot of time in conjunction with Maxwell in developing the Rope/Chain gypsy and the best way to splice the Line to the Chain. There have been many varying views on best practice and before I went to CRA, I used to use the multi link idea. But in testing, found the single link to be the much stronger coupling method. 
The coupling of the two must be able to flex to a degree. If you splice it too tight and make it a solid inflexible joint, it will certainly bind.

[Fogg 427]

I've also always used a simple clean splice to the last chain link and found it worked fine 99% of the time through a combined rope/ chain gypsy (most recently Lewmar). In fact KM did the splicing on my last one.

[chariot 242]

I don,t have a chain/rope gypsy, just a drum so there is no problem with binding. Sounds like splice to first link is the way to go. What about chain to anchor, shackle or swivel. Have heard a lot of negative coments about swivels.

[Steve Pope 243]

If you must use a swivel, shackle 2 or 3 links of chain between it and the anchor, that way it can generally never be bent out of shape or otherwise buggered around. Imho, chain to anchor using one of knot mee's quality shackles is the way to go.

[wheels 543]

With a Drum (windlass) only, it does not matter too much. Except that a Shackle tends to stand the chance of being the strongest, depending on what swivel you use. There are good ones and some nasty ones out there. Mind you, same with shackles, but they are less complex and even if stretch the thing, it is unlikely it would pull apart. Although always check that the pin screws in nicely. We have seen some really poor threads from some cheap manufacturers. Shackles are so cheap, try and buy one that has the Pin painted Green. It is a particular quality brand and is a "tested" shackle you can trust your life on.
    For those with all chain rodes, a fixed shackle is best. This ensures the Anchor comes up over the bow roller in the correct orientation. If it fails to do so, then an Anchor Straightener is best. That is a snazzy swivel with a bend in it that makes the anchor spin to the the correct position.
    Only use a swivel if you have a problem with the rode twisting the chain round and around. ALWAYS keep the fittings as simple and the least as you can possibly get away with.
With every connection comes a possibility of a failure.

[Steve Pope 243]

Great post Kme3

[Island Time 1,214]

OK, a couple of points. If you're using a swivel, then you should have a few links between it and the anchor to ensure that the swivel doesn't take side loads. They can easily fail if attached directly to the anchor. I know of several failures in this mode.

Splices. If you're using say a 10 mm short link, and your rode is a three strand, similar breaking strain to the chain, how can you get all three strands thru a single link?

As always, happy to be educated, or learn something new...

[vic008 17]

Just awaiting 12mm 8 strand from you. Got 8mm chain from you awhile back-question will the rope fit thru the chain link? And not to do the long splice but usual eyesplice, right?

[chariot 242]

Thanks KM, you've resolved my problem. I have a 3 strand rode that is twisting up something wicked. I didn't realise that it required a swivel. It's about 7 years old. Think i might have to biff it and get a better quality rode rather than from the swindelry.

[vic008 17]

Hi KM. Your 12mm 8 strand is here. What splice to use please?(Only have simple Nillson drum so no ch2rope jamming worries)

[Myjane 40]

Km Is right with the strength of the rope to chain link v the eye splice I used to shudder looking at those three strands around that link , I just payes to keep an eye on it