southernman 70 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 I have a bit of a project I'm about to start, teak decks. They are vacuum bagged and glued onto deck so no fasteners. The issue is the caulking is failing and pulling out in places. Any advice / tools used appreciated. I think removing all the caulking while a bigger job would be the best approach? Or can I just do the bits where it's coming out. The other issue is the caulking is proud of the teak in places where teak has worn. So I'm thinking: - remove caulking using renovator - edge manual sand to remove any caulking - clean - recaulk - sand - teak pretect Thoughts, advice appreciated cheers Southernman. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Priscilla II 343 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 If the caulking compound is still reasonably sound ie not rock hard and still attached just leave it and repair the sections that need replacing. Take a sharp small hand plane and run it over the ridged compound to flatten it off also a new Tajima styled knife blade laid flat will do the job. Avoid sanding the teak as that is just a waste of teak. Fien do a 4mm and 5mm caulking removal blade not cheap and there is the reef hook but in reality a sharp knife to the rebated sides and a screwdriver work equally as well. Remember to degrease the cleaned out and sanded seams with MEK or similar and prime with epoxy sealer before re caulking . Do not become a slave to topical teak products. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
southernman 70 Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Had a further look this afternoon, the main area I'm starting on is the rear boarding platform and in one area where you stand all the time the teak is actually work out to a point where the grove for the caulking compound is probably only 1mm deep, I'm guessing this means I need to router a new deeper grove and then sand the area flat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Farina 2 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 you should get a small laminate router with a 4 or 5mm cutting bit. get a scrap of timber with a straight edge that you can gently nail down with furniture brads the trick is to set the depth to about 3mm, the hardest part is to work out the offset from the straight edge to the cutting blade. then run the router along the straight edge and job done mask up apply sika primer then sika. when set just run a sharp blade along to remove excess then a gentle sand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BNG 42 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 What Native said, re-groove and get new straight sharp edges and lines and a greater area of bonding. When using sharp tools make sure you work with the grain of the timber or you will dig holes to hell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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