Crazyhorse 47 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Removed our cap shroud chain plates today as just too rusted to clean up, I think they are original from 1966 so survived well. Should we: A/ cut the rusted ends off and re weld a new end on then galv them? B/ get to bare metal and fatten them up with a welder? C/ go all stainless? Not sure about maintenance of new galv ones either. Is galv paint OK for future touch ups or coating them in something like epoxy? Many thanks guys. Not a job that was on our list so not a good day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battleship 100 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Use them as a pattern to make new ones out of at least 316 stainless. I wouldn't bother trying to resurrect the old ones they have done their time. I wouldn't go for gal unless the rest of the rigging was gal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Priscilla II 392 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 While you are at it if going stainless have the exposed portion electropolished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 47 Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Use them as a pattern to make new ones out of at least 316 stainless. I wouldn't bother trying to resurrect the old ones they have done their time. I wouldn't go for gal unless the rest of the rigging was gal. Thanks Willow & Priscilla, my thinking too but 1500 bucks for our new pulpit I can only imagine the cost of SS. Never heard of electropolishing? I figured where the plate meets the deck if SS it would be best left rough as so a cement sealant sticks better? Out around Fungers tomorrow looking for quotes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Priscilla II 392 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Corrosion resistance and bling factor are the benefits of electropolishing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex TL systems 63 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 You might find some suitable ss at your local scrap metal place, got to be a lot better than those rusty old bits. Might be something at that boat parts place by the basin too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vic008 17 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Could you buy the SS and cut/fabricate yourself then just take to a guy to just do the welding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Given that those have lasted till now and probably would still have life left in them I would replace them with mild steel galv ones the same as you have now. Yes SS bling is shiny but apart from that has no advantage over mild steel. Very similar strength ratings. Once made, Avon industries for galvanising. If you wish, go up in thickness a tad, plus you can always get an ss bush put in the rigging screw hole, so no friction / rust stains. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 47 Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Could you buy the SS and cut/fabricate yourself then just take to a guy to just do the welding. Two blokes living on a 30 foot boat...not sure a angle grinder and old drill will do it. Had loads of suggestions around the yard here. Kevin: cut the end off and get a new end made out or stainless and weld that on. Gerry the rigger: oh, I wouldn't be keen on that, get a new one out of stainless (Noel said the same). Ron from "Ara-A-Kiwa": nah, just clean them up mate, spray with a bit of zinc and good to go! Another codger in here looked at our portside chain plate and noticed they have already been cut and welded before. Didn't see that myself until he pointed that out. Said do the same again then have them re-galved. Away soon to get prices..and heart pills. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Priscilla II 392 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Considering the welfare of your yacht and possibly your life hangs off those two bits of metal why take the risk with bodgie options. Noel and Gerry have given you the best advice take it and be happy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 While you are at it check out the other cp's as well, if you havn't already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John B 106 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Unless there was a really good reason for it , I would forget the flanges and welding, get one pattern sorted and have the 4 or 6 units laser or water cut including holes from appropriate thickness stainless ( 316 or best advice). Maybe some bending required. Its the fastenings in shear that do the work , those flanges are just there for sealing I suspect) . get some seperate light stainless flanges made to slot over to make the seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waikiore 398 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 What JB says then rest easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vic008 17 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Agree with JB but to minimise the expense you can do all that yourself with a cut-off disc (& safety glasses) Drilling you might need to use a guy with a drillpress. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SloopJohnB 323 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Lazer cut the way to go, including bolt & clevis holes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 47 Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 Not long back. Good advice, thanks guys and true, why muck about with bodgy jobs so going all 316 from scratch with Terry at RDM. Figured $500 incl for them both a reasonable price. Pickup wednesday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnmac 3 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Please note 316 stainless is very susceptible to crevice corrosion so its not a good material for chainplates which are buried inside deck timbers. I've seen several yachts with broken masts from either 316 stainless bolts or 316 stainless chainplates fracturing from unseen crevice corrosion. Far, far better to use mild steel galvanised (budget option), or 2205 stainless (bling option), or best of all - use the old fittings as patterns to cast new ones in AB2 bronze - which should pretty much last forever. Same with the bolts - bronze bolts will outlast 316 stainless and have no issue with crevice corrosion. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 642 Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 www.pressreader.com/new-zealand/boating-nz/20160201/283145722734981 interesting read and appears 304 maybe better,many think 316 is the cure but its not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 There's nowt wrong with galvanised steel. SS is overated, especially where it can be oxygen starved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazyhorse 47 Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 Installed! Figure they should last 20 years (when I'm either 80 or burley...) and open to the air inside the hull and on deck. Used G-Flex to glue and seal up the deck plate. Buggars cut the screw holes wrong. Will post some pics when done..once this bloody weather stops. Thanks again all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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