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Ross 830 - Advice


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On 5/11/2021 at 9:58 PM, Rangi1 said:

The classic tv advert…

https://youtu.be/CD6S8DZHpG4

Ha, love that Ad. I still sing it randomly :)

 

Been out on the boat a few times over the past few days.
 

Went to Tiritiri today via motor and snorkelled with 6 year old daughter fro the first time. What a gorgeous day...Paradise!

Have a few maintenance questions.
What do people spray plastic cleats, pulleys and locking cams with to keep them tip top.... silicon, CRC Marine, Inox etc? or are they best left to the weather?

The main sail cover has seen better days, I need a few repairs done to it just to buy us a season before it gets replaced. ANy suggestions on who might be a good, cheao reapir person for somethign that really needs replacing? (we have the no 2 headsail at Norths for repairs but I suspect they would tell me its a waste of time). 

 

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5 minutes ago, Rgvkiwi said:

Have a few maintenance questions.

What do people spray plastic cleats, pulleys and locking cams with to keep them tip top.... silicon, CRC Marine, Inox etc? or are they best left to the weather?

I was once told that Silicon has no place on a Yacht unless you're an expert and know where and how to use it. Since then I have never used silicon. 

After a soak in warm soapy water...

I use Harken Mclube Sailkote available as a liquid or spray. 

I have also used CRC Dry Glide. 

CRC marine/inox is useful for breaking down excess oxidation and rust with a tooth brush. 

10 minutes ago, Rgvkiwi said:

Main sail cover has seen better days, I need a few repairs done to it just to buy us a season before it gets replaced. 

I would probably try sail repair sticky back first... I have found that most Sail makers are happy to take our money for anything then needs a sewing machine, no matter how minor.

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I've also recently purchased a Ross 830 (Flaming Lips) and have two questions. The First is that the boat came with a square top, the bottom three battens being half length and the top 3 full length. When sailing up wind as soon as any backstay tension is added and even without any backstay at times the main starts to "fold" at the front of the half lenght battens. Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to trim the main to avoid this, or is it a matter of getting full length battens? (we have fractional runners for forestay tension and these are always on going upwind). My second question is around the runners/backstay. On the down winds I use backstay to surport the top of the rig when I've got masthead gear up. But in order to jibe with the square top the backstay needs to be let off, leaving the top of the rig unsurported. I plan on going to mast head runners, any sugestions on how best to set these up as I'd like to keep the fractional runners for forestay tension, but would prefer only having to pull one thing on in the cockpit (no winches for runners just purchase system).  

 

(First picture with backstay on second with none on).

image0.jpeg

image3.jpeg

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I have a MH so no experience with square top running running rigging.

But batons are usually to give shape to a sail in light winds.

If the sail is collapsing it has too much depth for the wind pressure/angle.

Can be counteracted with either flattening the main with your outhaul or changing your attack angle and the slot. Between the main and jib.

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I have a finn with unstayed carbon mast, sheeting on hard with light wind on sail it inverts, ease the sheet and its good, so suggest not using so much backstay unless.its really blowing, otherwise sail luff may need to be recut to suit mast bend, 

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Looks like too much topmost backstay

probably only need to use this with masthead gear on

Also you may need to reef a lot earlier than you think with that squaretop main, bring it down to height of forestay at as low as 12-15 knots (it is a Ross boat after all, they go best standing up)

Also if you’ve only just bought it don’t trust that the rig and sail are setup for each other

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Looks like a case of too much bend in the rig overall. You probably need to have the mast set up pretty straight, then use the topmast to  bend it when you want to de-power. Have a play with the vang, outhaul, and cunningham to see what effect that gives you. 
for that top photo I’d be taking off the topmast and giving the cunningham quite a bit, then vang. It might need a bit of curve cut into the luff. 

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