Chewing Gum 17 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Is it possible to buy this product retail ? Can it be applied to the aluminium on sternlegs, outboard legs and saildrives ? Link to post Share on other sites
Fusion 0 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Good question. I had my prop done 2 years ago and it was great. I have seen it on stink boat stern legs, faster through the waster. Can you buy it and apply it yourself? Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 As I understand it, there is an "equivalent" which is sold retail. Watched a guy trial it here and trying to remember the exact details...the quantity seemed to be sufficient for a 50ft twin-screw launch (= would last for years or possibly go out of date for a yacht. Or split the cost with another owner) and there was something about the method of application that could have caught out anyone who didn't follow the instructions to the letter (or understand the pitfalls if the instructions were not followed exactly). Bottom line was that the guy concluded that he would go back to getting genuine Propseed applied in future if possible. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 The problem is, the "applicators" tell you it has to be "professionally" applied which is a Load of crap actually and thus you will have great difficulty getting hold of the stuff. Give the Prop a good clean and a good ruff up with a coarse sand paper. Then apply the primer and then the top coat according to instructions. It is damn expensive, but you get about 5 props out of a Kit. It's money for jam for these "professional" applicators. If you want, I could ask the yard down here if they would sell me a Kit and I could send it to you. Link to post Share on other sites
Battgirl 23 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 So what do people really think about propspeed then and what antifouling system works really well on props and shafts? It looks great but having had it applied twice to the boat's shaft and prop I am not a fan. I have found less fouling after using just good old lanolin which is a lot cheaper. The fact that the boat is on a mooring is a factor no doubt. The current system in place is altex no 10 on the prop and lanolin on the shaft. Time will tell how successful that is but if there's something better I'm up for it. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Was the propspeed still there Batgirl?? Or was there growth over the propspeed? Prospeed does not "stop" growth as such, it simply does not provide a good surface for anything to adhere to it. So when you start spinning the prop, the shaft and prop should self clean. The advantage over applying an anti-foul is that it is supposed to last longer. Up to 5 yrs. Where as anti-foul will wear away very quickly. So quick, it is better not to bother coating the prop as a real high polish will do just as well. Although it does depend on the environment. Every harbor is different. From what I have seen of boats that have applied propspeed so far, is a clean prop and shaft on haul out. So clean I decided to coat mine last year. I won't be hauling out till early next year, so I can't say how mine has gone yet. I have heard of the odd boat that has lost the propspeed for some reason. It seems that once it is damaged, it will just peel away. Not sure if this is application faults or damage later when in the water. There are some new products available commercially now that leave propspeed in the dust. I am in the process seeing if I can aquire these and maybe set up some sort of a distribution as part of say a "crew" type DIY club. But I need to talk to Squid first and ensure i am not stepping on any toes of an advertiser and so on. Another Anti-foul I can get my hands on cheaply is a 2yr and 5 yr commercial product and at a really cheap price. We have tested it for three years now and the Hull it is on is clean as a whistle and a comparison Hull with International's equivilant is not quite as good, although excellent as far as anything else goes. They are also working on silicon based coatings now and they are looking very promissing. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Another Anti-foul I can get my hands on cheaply is a 2yr and 5 yr commercial product and at a really cheap price. We have tested it for three years now and the Hull it is on is clean as a whistle and a comparison Hull with International's equivilant is not quite as good, although excellent as far as anything else goes. They are also working on silicon based coatings now and they are looking very promissing. Wheels, I have been using commercial spec antifoul on my boat and she has been pretty clean for the last year, it was about half the cost of the yachty antifoul. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Another Anti-foul I can get my hands on cheaply is a 2yr and 5 yr commercial product and at a really cheap price. We have tested it for three years now and the Hull it is on is clean as a whistle and a comparison Hull with International's equivilant is not quite as good, although excellent as far as anything else goes. They are also working on silicon based coatings now and they are looking very promissing. Wheels, I have been using commercial spec antifoul on my boat and she has been pretty clean for the last year, it was about half the cost of the yachty antifoul. Details?? Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Altex 1000 and 4000 from memory, was what an altex tech recommended, first hard / semi ablative followed by ablative over the top - different colours for the two types - but at the time the 1000 only came in red. Price, only remember that it cost about half of what Burnsco was selling the yachty paint for at the time, did not buy through Burnsco. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 The stuff I can get is a Hempels product. I think it is about $25/ltr. It comes in 10ltr pales because it is to heavy to try and lift a 20ltr. Very high copper content. Link to post Share on other sites
w44vi 17 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 I have altex 4000 on my boat works well and cheap Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 burnsco special on Alex number 5 for $139 a 4L can this month. Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Yeah I see that. Very good price. We used to sell International coppercoat for virtually cost price. We called it a "lost leader". Everybody needed Anti-foul and that was the draw card into the shop. People didn't ask the cost of your rollers, they looked at the cost of the paint. So you get them int he shop and then make the money selling the Brushes and Rollers and masking tape and cleaner and so on. Much like fuel companies now. They sell fuel with little mark up and make the money with the goodies in the shop with the 400% markup. Link to post Share on other sites
L'escale 0 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 OK to come back to the original question re Propspeed. I had it applied to a new Maxprop and shaft and got about 9 months - I was told this was due to manufacturing grease/oils still in metals? Anyway I then applied some logic of my own - I use the floating dock at Westhaven every 6 months for a power wash and to check anodes etc. So why am I spending good money on something that will last longer? I now spend 10 to 15 minutes sanding the prop with 3 grades of wet & dry finishing with 600 grit and then apply lanolin grease. Brilliant! After 6 months lanolin still on prop with no growth Saving the cost of a few bottles of rum/wine Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 You've got my attention. The spray-on lanolin grease or the more solid version that comes in a plastic tub? Link to post Share on other sites
L'escale 0 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Hi Murky I use the plastic tub stuff and smear on quite thick with fingers, then smooth off to some extent with rag - bonus is you have nice soft hands for a week! Link to post Share on other sites
Fusion 0 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 I used to do that with my old boat had a folding prop. Can lanolin it be applied underwater ? If you don't haul out every 6 months a quick dive and rub hard with a coated rag? Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 I have heard of people using lanolin on the whole boat, only get 6 months but cheap and easy to apply, works well if you are in a position to not pay for haul out - like a tide grid. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 One lad that used to work for me used to take his prop off and put it in a tin with a pile of Lanocote (lanolin/fish oil combo) and cook the bugger for a wee while. He swore it lasted 18months yuck free, which was about the same as his anti-fouling did. Something about opening the pores in the metal which made it stick better. Mind you that was before CRC changed the Lanocote mix. Personally I find props that live in the water quite quaint, I lift mine out when I've finished with it Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 There is a Bearing bronze that has a porous structure and you heat it and then drop it in oil to suck up oil. These bearings are the little bushes you find in small motors etc. They then self lubricate over the period of their life. I am not sure that Admiralty Bronze would be porous enough to allow oil to be sucked up, but hey, if it works, then maybe. I tested lanacote and it didn't stay on for long at all. It did work well on my speed paddel wheel though. One product that stayed on longer was Res-Q-steel. But it certainly didn't last a year. L'escale, polishing with the scotch brite type Roloc discs, then finish with metal polishing compound, proper name is rouge, and a material pad on the grinder will really bring out a great polish and save a hell of a lot of elbow grease. The reason why the propspeed probably didn't work on the maxprop is because the coating can be damaged very easily and it will come off quickly. A variable prop would most likely not allow a perfect coat all around and allow edges that could allow the coating to peel away. Careful application would need to be used to ensure a perfect coating. Link to post Share on other sites
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