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Additives for diesel.


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So who knows about additives for diesel, for bug etc. as a preventative.

No issues currently, but there was a small amount of some crap in the tanks when we replaced engines recently.

Does anyone run any additives, or is it snake oil? 

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Yep, I had a bug issue a few months ago. I'd noticed fuel from Gulf Harbor had more than normal water in it for some time, and inevitably caused a problem. Full tank and line clean later, new filters, good to go. I'm now using an additive , and avoiding GH fuel. This might be interesting;

https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/12-diesel-bug-treatments-tested-43353

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I had a major infestation 10 years ago which resulted in having to clean out the fuel tank and sell my children into slavery to pay for new injectors.

At the time I researched the topic thoroughly and have since used Grotamar 82 religiously. Never had a hint of diesel bug since and can highly recommend it.

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Over the yrs of boat ownership. Never brought diesel from a marina, always brought 20lts from high volume stations, kept tank full and added a additive, think it was 10ml per 10lts?empty water trap often. Once bug established .Game over.

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Love Fuel Doctor..working inland Australia , fuel station fuel can have water and crap plus the bug so always carried in whatever vehicle;  petrol or Diesel...just started an old  diesel toyota ute that had been sitting on a farm for a couple of years but had put fuel doctor in before sitting  Started third go after repriming...dropped the fuel to check for bug back at the workshop...put through a Mr Filter and then reused and not much in the filter...had major flooding event so all vehicles got put into action to move equipment and animals.

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Had a major diesel bug issue in the past, so always use an additive. In the past we did loads of research and what-not, now I can't remember which brand we use, basically grab the first one I see from any major retailer, when needing more. Obviously check it has biocidal properties / states it is effective against bug. Given the basics of additive, I don't think the exact brand matters.

The cost of the additive is negligible compared to the cost and hassle of fixing a bug problem.

Haven't had a bug issue for years now. Also have a glass bowl pre-filter ahead of the engine, and that has been OK (a wheeny bit of black sh*t in the bottom after a couple of years).

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Bug should NEVER get to an injector. Filters block with it, but would have to fail completely to allow bug into HP pump then injectors.... 

Water though, can get past some filters and will damage injectors. And bug needs water in fuel...

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The "bug" exist in petrol too, but because we use our vehicles often and filling tank it doesnt get a chance to get established same with heavy transport. But vessel lay  unused for long periods with 1/2 full tanks so condensation gets in and away the bug goes. Never had a problem, dosed tank each fill, kept tank full and regular use with regular change of filters and drain/check water trap.. Buy fuel from high turn over stations.

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Have just finished putting in a new filtration system and polished the fuel in the tanks . Have two 280 ltr tanks which had a mild amount of bug , one worse than the other . One deck filler had a perished O ring letting in water ,that tank was worse than the other , tanks are connected so it spread via the connecting line.

Shock dosed both tanks with fuelright cause I’ve had success with that in the past in a bulldozer . Polished both tanks with a cheap 40 ltr per min fuel transfer pump running through a cheap high flow water separating filter and 20mm clear vinyl hose  . Connected pump to tank drains and pumped it back to the tank inlets to get some end to end circulation going .  The fuelright had been in the tanks for two weeks and had dissolved the sludge into a silt that dropped out into the water seperator . Ran pump for 30 mins on each tank but they were running clear after about 5 mins . There will be crap stuck behind the baffles but I’m relying on the new filters to catch that with help from some choppy conditions .

New filters replaced an old cav 296 water seperator . New filters are Racor water seperators with filters in the top half . Have set them up in parallel so if one blocks with crap the other can be brought on line . there is also a vacuum gauge downstream of the filters and before the engine to give early warning of impending blockage . I’ve also added a small electric fuel pump because bleeding the system is impossible single handed using the manual lift pump which is on the opposite side to the IP and injectors .

seems like overkill but I know first hand how bad the bug can get and it will always block filters at the worst possible moment . The quality of fuel is not always known now either with the imported stuff . when we start get a % of biodiesel added in the future the bug will only get worse , it’s causing major problems in the US and Europe already .

Basically copied this system but with a spaghetti junction of rubber hose because it fit the space better and I don’t have pipe bending and flaring tools etc . https://ph.parker.com/us/en/product-list/marine-fuel-filter-water-separator-turbine-series

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8 hours ago, harrytom said:

The "bug" exist in petrol too, but because we use our vehicles often and filling tank it doesnt get a chance to get established same with heavy transport. But vessel lay  unused for long periods with 1/2 full tanks so condensation gets in and away the bug goes. Never had a problem, dosed tank each fill, kept tank full and regular use with regular change of filters and drain/check water trap.. Buy fuel from high turn over stations.

Read a very interesting opinion by a fuel specialist who argued the full tank theory to stop condensation is a myth .

he reckons the condensation is caused by the hot returning fuel from the engine eventually warms the whole tank if it’s run long enough . The tank expands a little bit displacing any air and it also usually becomes warmer than ambient temp . The tank then stays warm for hours and draws in cold air as it cools which then condenses on the walls . His conclusion is you can’t stop the water but you can filter it out . He also recommends 6 monthly dosing with biocide regardless of your fuel condition , it only takes 24 hours to get a major infection . He also said rotate brands of biocide so the bug doesn’t build up resistance to one particular type .

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38 minutes ago, Ex Machina said:

Have just finished putting in a new filtration system and polished the fuel in the tanks . Have two 280 ltr tanks which had a mild amount of bug , one worse than the other . One deck filler had a perished O ring letting in water ,that tank was worse than the other , tanks are connected so it spread via the connecting line.

Shock dosed both tanks with fuelright cause I’ve had success with that in the past in a bulldozer . Polished both tanks with a cheap 40 ltr per min fuel transfer pump running through a cheap high flow water separating filter and 20mm clear vinyl hose  . Connected pump to tank drains and pumped it back to the tank inlets to get some end to end circulation going .  The fuelright had been in the tanks for two weeks and had dissolved the sludge into a silt that dropped out into the water seperator . Ran pump for 30 mins on each tank but they were running clear after about 5 mins . There will be crap stuck behind the baffles but I’m relying on the new filters to catch that with help from some choppy conditions .

New filters replaced an old cav 296 water seperator . New filters are Racor water seperators with filters in the top half . Have set them up in parallel so if one blocks with crap the other can be brought on line . there is also a vacuum gauge downstream of the filters and before the engine to give early warning of impending blockage . I’ve also added a small electric fuel pump because bleeding the system is impossible single handed using the manual lift pump which is on the opposite side to the IP and injectors .

seems like overkill but I know first hand how bad the bug can get and it will always block filters at the worst possible moment . The quality of fuel is not always known now either with the imported stuff . when we start get a % of biodiesel added in the future the bug will only get worse , it’s causing major problems in the US and Europe already .

Basically copied this system but with a spaghetti junction of rubber hose because it fit the space better and I don’t have pipe bending and flaring tools etc . https://ph.parker.com/us/en/product-list/marine-fuel-filter-water-separator-turbine-series

Outboard hand squeeze pump bulb works fine single handed, more accessible than the lever type that is usually half way down the crankcase, if installed with easy access in mind.

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17 minutes ago, Steve Pope said:

Outboard hand squeeze pump bulb works fine single handed, more accessible than the lever type that is usually half way down the crankcase, if installed with easy access in mind.

Yeah I pondered doing that but I need two hands to bleed the injector pump . went for a small automotive pump that allows fuel to flow through when it’s turned off so lift pump can do its thing when the engine is running 

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Depending on your fuel usage and how far you draw down your tanks... if you get down to 20% several times per year then you will likely keep ahead of bacterial growth... assuming fuel outlet or condensate water drains are in the very bottom of the tank... and drains are used.

If not draining down the tanks, then a small dose of biocide annually is prudent... add when you top up and leave to sit and kill the bugs... if you use and refill  within a week or two, then you may not have killed the bug.

Other additives for any other reasons... "Do not use"...period. The heartaches and dramas far out weight advertised benifits... 

 

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8 hours ago, Steve Pope said:

Outboard hand squeeze pump bulb works fine single handed, more accessible than the lever type that is usually half way down the crankcase, if installed with easy access in mind.

I've got one of those. Works a treat.

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