CarpeDiem 560 Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 That seems to be a pretty crappy alternator. And the Balmar one later in the video is equally disappointing... My factory VP alternator has no problem outputting 95amps for 60-70 minutes. I have no external regulator, no conduit for cooled air... it's 100% stock. Yes I have the means to shut the alternator down when the Li-ion is fully charged, but that's to prevent overcharging of the Li-ion not to protect the alternator. The alternator just runs at max output using its built-in factory regulator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvarkash10 1,147 Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 Coupla comments. Most alternators are overdriven at around 3:1 engine speed. The 1500rpm test is the same as idle on a mid sized diesel, but at normal cruise speed the alternator will be turning at 4500 to 7000 rpm depending on the engine, so cooling airflow quickly stops being a problem. Most alternators also have temperature compensation built into the regulator (when internally regulated). It may not respond as quickly as a dedicated temperature control system since the sensing is buried in the regulator and heat has to soak through from the rectifier or stator, so it may not react quickly enough in extreme situations. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,337 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 6 hours ago, CarpeDiem said: That seems to be a pretty crappy alternator. And the Balmar one later in the video is equally disappointing... My factory VP alternator has no problem outputting 95amps for 60-70 minutes. I have no external regulator, no conduit for cooled air... it's 100% stock. Yes I have the means to shut the alternator down when the Li-ion is fully charged, but that's to prevent overcharging of the Li-ion not to protect the alternator. The alternator just runs at max output using its built-in factory regulator. That would be a Mitsubishi alternator, with the yellow voltage sense wire. 115a. They are not a bad alternator, with internal temp sensing and battery voltage sense. Not as good as a Balmar though, but good for a factory alt. I had the same one - but have since updated to a 250a Balmar. HUGE difference in charge rates - the Balmar is backed off, but maintains about 150a indefinitely.... With a cooling duct led to it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Psyche 879 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 IT, what do models do you recommend for if replacing an alternator, does internal/external regulation matter that much? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bad Kitty 341 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Anyone got experience with the Enertec permanent magnet 300A alternators? Apparently only take the same power to spin as a std type 120A alt? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 439 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 3 hours ago, Bad Kitty said: Anyone got experience with the Enertec permanent magnet 300A alternators? Apparently only take the same power to spin as a std type 120A alt? If they are anything like Enertec's flexible solar panels, they'll sh*t themselves just within the end of the warranty period, and you will be left whistling if you want any help from Enertec. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,337 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 16 hours ago, Psyche said: IT, what do models do you recommend for if replacing an alternator, does internal/external regulation matter that much? I generally use Balmar. But Arco make some good hot rated ones as well, and paired with their Zeus regulator make a great solution. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,337 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 3 hours ago, Bad Kitty said: Anyone got experience with the Enertec permanent magnet 300A alternators? Apparently only take the same power to spin as a std type 120A alt? Umm, nope, that would be against the laws of Physics. You don't get anything for nothing! 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CarpeDiem 560 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 8 hours ago, Bad Kitty said: Anyone got experience with the Enertec permanent magnet 300A alternators? Apparently only take the same power to spin as a std type 120A alt? PMA is considerably more efficient than Coil. ~90% vs ~60%. PMA cannot regulate voltage in an automotive set up without external electronics such as MPPT or DC/DC... Coil based alternators can adjust really fast to load changes and rpm changes. PMA cannot. PMA is like the "baseload" on an electrical system while coil can instantly manage the spikes while holding the voltage. Replacing a coil alternator with a PMA would need careful electrical engineering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CarpeDiem 560 Posted July 28 Share Posted July 28 5 hours ago, Island Time said: Umm, nope, that would be against the laws of Physics. You don't get anything for nothing! Conservation of Energy. PMA is substantially better at converting mechanical energy to electrical than it's Coil counterpart. But efficiency does not equal control. Horses for courses... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,807 Posted August 8 Share Posted August 8 Last week my batteries died. I decided to stick with AGM. Got the exact same so just a few bolts and job done. Plus due to various improvements in batteries I gat 20% more capacity. Cost 1168dollars for around 500 Amp hours. But I used 1100 in reward points on my credit card. So cost 68 dollars. Then took the old ones to the scrap dealer and he gave me 78. I made a profit of 10 dollars on my new batteries! 3 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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