Quattro 19 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 I see this was discussed 4 or 5 years ago and just want to see if there's been any developments. Last was Parker Group was looking at developing a local product. Is this so? Anyone tried it? I'm looking to upgrade on the annual typical AF in Tamaki River that barely lasts a year. And at my age, while I have more time on my hands, I'd prefer to go sailing, not sanding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,834 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Mine is near death at 10 years. Not bad. I'd clean 3 or times per year in the water. I think I'm winn8ng. Weiti river. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quattro 19 Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 19 hours ago, Black Panther said: Mine is near death at 10 years. Not bad. I'd clean 3 or times per year in the water. I think I'm winn8ng. Weiti river. Great. Did you apply it yourself? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,834 Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Long story. Eventually yes and that would be my recommendation Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 461 Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 16 hours ago, Quattro said: Great. Did you apply it yourself? I've applied in myself twice. I would recommend that over using a professional - for the primary reason to make sure the climatic conditions are good when you are doing the application. Professionals have a schedule to keep to so they are more motivated to paint when the weather isn't quite right. That is assuming you have flexibility with your personal time and are using a reasonable priced hard stand say at a club rather than the bonkers rip off commercial hard stands. You need to make sure the hull is properly dry. We had a slight issue on one side of the keel with the CC blistering. This would have been on the shaded side and would have been colder, being lead, holding a bit of moisture. That moisture gets trapped under the CC and eventually blisters. Note, we aren't talking about wet surfaces, just the subtilties of relative humidity and dampness. You'd want a relatively warm and dry day, preferably with not too much wind. Applying it is relatively straight forward, 4 coats of wet on tacky. 2 people can comfortably do a 37 fter. Have a table set out with all your gear for mixing, a clock and a note paper to record when you mix a batch, dwell time before applying and how long it takes to for you to paint it on, so you can get the timing right for mixing the next batch. It is a thick viscous product so a mechanical mixer is handy, and make sure you get the appropriate type of roller (I can't remember which type). Both product temp and air temp influence how viscous the product is and how fast it goes tacky etc. The hull prep is the hard work. If you were going to use a professional I'd use it for that job, unless you get joy from scrapping old antifoul off hulls for days on end 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quattro 19 Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 7 hours ago, K4309 said: I've applied in myself twice. I would recommend that over using a professional - for the primary reason to make sure the climatic conditions are good when you are doing the application. Professionals have a schedule to keep to so they are more motivated to paint when the weather isn't quite right. That is assuming you have flexibility with your personal time and are using a reasonable priced hard stand say at a club rather than the bonkers rip off commercial hard stands. You need to make sure the hull is properly dry. We had a slight issue on one side of the keel with the CC blistering. This would have been on the shaded side and would have been colder, being lead, holding a bit of moisture. That moisture gets trapped under the CC and eventually blisters. Note, we aren't talking about wet surfaces, just the subtilties of relative humidity and dampness. You'd want a relatively warm and dry day, preferably with not too much wind. Applying it is relatively straight forward, 4 coats of wet on tacky. 2 people can comfortably do a 37 fter. Have a table set out with all your gear for mixing, a clock and a note paper to record when you mix a batch, dwell time before applying and how long it takes to for you to paint it on, so you can get the timing right for mixing the next batch. It is a thick viscous product so a mechanical mixer is handy, and make sure you get the appropriate type of roller (I can't remember which type). Both product temp and air temp influence how viscous the product is and how fast it goes tacky etc. The hull prep is the hard work. If you were going to use a professional I'd use it for that job, unless you get joy from scrapping old antifoul off hulls for days on end Good stuff to hear. I'm going to do it. Any info on where to get CC or any NZ equivalent? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 461 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 3 hours ago, Quattro said: Good stuff to hear. I'm going to do it. Any info on where to get CC or any NZ equivalent? The CC guy is based in Chch, no pricing on his website so you need to get hold of him. Link below. We've had CC twice now, last applied in 2021. As an aside, I did a lot of work looking into alternatives and antifouls that worked. I discussed my specific situation (high fouling river mooring) with a sales manager / rep for an AF company and the CC guy. Both offered not insignificant discounts to 'assist' with my decision making. So if you talk nicely but prevaricate a bit on placing the order, you might get a helpful discount. As an aside, I'd be interested in what the pricing is for CC now. It is highly depended on the price of copper, given each one litre unit has something like 2.2kg (I think) of copper powder in it. PS, the rollers he recommended were sh*t (some tiny little thing). We went with standard Bunnings ones of the appropriate nap. Get strong roller handles, and have a spare handle or two, the CC is heavy to apply and you want a contingency if one breaks. On performance, we've been nailed by barnacles this year. My perception is that CC will get a light slime fairly quickly (2-4 weeks) then not much else happens for 6 ish months. The key advantage is it's hard, so you can clean it as often as you want, in the water, out of the water, with a high powered water plaster or just a plastering trowel. Plastic plastering trowels are ideal, but if you have barnacles steel trowels handle them better. Should last 8 years in warm water like Auckland, 10 years in cold water like Britain. Coppercoat Antifoul — HullWell Advanced Marine Coating Technology New Zealand (NZ) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,834 Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 The guy I'm chch went tits up shortly after our dispute. For the hull prep we had it soda blasted. Highly recommend. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quattro 19 Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 The Chch guy came back with a quote of just under 4k. The online measure app indicated i need 8 litres but he came back with 10. All good info thanks. I've got a few months up my sleeve but it's all good knowledge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 461 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 13 hours ago, Quattro said: The Chch guy came back with a quote of just under 4k. The online measure app indicated i need 8 litres but he came back with 10. All good info thanks. I've got a few months up my sleeve but it's all good knowledge What size is your boat? My 37ft with a relatively narrow beam used 10 units I think, but we ordered 11. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quattro 19 Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 I've got a Raven 31. A bit surprised at his amount required, as i did check out the UK website for CC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quattro 19 Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 Do you put CC over say aluminum sailing drive? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,834 Posted June 21 Share Posted June 21 17 hours ago, Quattro said: Do you put CC over say aluminum sailing drive? No. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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