Island Time 1,211 Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Yeah, only looked on my phone last night - on the PC the misalignment of the new mount is obvious. What does the other side look like? It could be a whole engine alignment issue, not just one mount. Normally/often the type of mounts shown are slotted at one end? It is important to get a alignment right, or either the rubber, the vulcanizing, or the mount bolt will break over time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottiE 174 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Slowly slowly . . . 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,211 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 looking great ScottiE!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Winter 42 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Yeah, only looked on my phone last night - on the PC the misalignment of the new mount is obvious. What does the other side look like? It could be a whole engine alignment issue, not just one mount. Normally/often the type of mounts shown are slotted at one end? It is important to get a alignment right, or either the rubber, the vulcanizing, or the mount bolt will break over time. Yeah. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the other 3 - they are all pretty old and tired and who knows what state the rubber is in. This one is slotted one end and holed at the other. Still a bit of wiggle room in the hole end too. I've just looked up the part number the yanmar man sold me and online it seems to be referred to as a 'Rear' engine mount.. I've stuck it in the front! Think that matters? at $330odd each, I was not in a hurry to do all four Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,211 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 There is a bit of an issue only changing one (especially to the wrong one!!) as the flexibility of the old ones will be more than the new. It may well stuff the new one unfortunately. The manufacturers don't make the mounts, just buy them add margin and resell. I got my current ones (for a Volvo Penta) from; Hancock Industrial Ltd 28 Hargreaves St, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011 P.O. Box 90602, Auckland Mail Centre 1142 NEW ZEALAND Ph:64 9 373 2760 Fax: 64 9 377 2749 email: sales@hancock.net.nz about 1/3 of the price from Volvo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dtwo 157 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Yeah. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the other 3 - they are all pretty old and tired and who knows what state the rubber is in. This one is slotted one end and holed at the other. Still a bit of wiggle room in the hole end too. I've just looked up the part number the yanmar man sold me and online it seems to be referred to as a 'Rear' engine mount.. I've stuck it in the front! Think that matters? at $330odd each, I was not in a hurry to do all four I don't think that there is anything special about the Yanmar mounts, apart from the price... You could consider replacing them all with something more reasnoable: http://www.henleyspropellers.com/Products/EngineMounts.aspx http://www.go2marine.com/category/13826/inboard-engine-mounts.html Looking at your first photo of the failed mount it looks as though it has never been sitting correctly on the bearing - best fix that problem before simply repeating the exercise? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,211 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 You should have gone to the other exhibition at the war memorial as well. Equally impressive! Ride safe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B00B00 306 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Made up a new much longer carbon prod for the Sun Fast. Prod is around 15mm think carbon with a foam core and a full length horrozontal bulkhead, we got this engineered by a mate of ours and stuck to his layup plan. Didnt vacuum bag it as we dont have technoligy like that but Dave Faulkner who made up the original blank/mold shape for us vacumed bagged that (huge thanks to Dave for his help witht he project). We had to extend the hull flange attachment an extra 150mm past the hull resess to get enough shear strength and go from 3 to 5 bolts. Decided to make up some low stretch bobstays as the 2 attachment points creates a headache where dynex is to variable in the its length (shrinks when not loaded and creeps when loaded) so was worried about point loading the prod on the unused bobstay. These are wound 4mm vectran core (8 laps @ 570kg break each) with a dyneema chafe cover over the top and onto ferruls. The bottom has both spliced onto 1 ferrul with the through hull attachment around the radius. Came out pretty tidy actually. Didnt have time to fair and paint it so its currently just a peel ply finish but will be fine for now and will have a go at finishing it off after coastal classic. Also removed the furler and changed to a rod forestay with hanks. big night in the loft changing all the headsails over to hanks. A few bigger sails to fit tomorrow and we should be good to go. Been a big few weeks. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScottiE 174 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Nice! (Your 11/10 PHRF cert covers the new sails right?) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fish 0 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Also removed the furler and changed to a rod forestay with hanks. big night in the loft changing all the headsails over to hanks. Whats your logic on going for the hanked headsails Booboo? We ditched our furler years ago for hanked headsails, as its cluster proof for short handed sailing, but very slow to change gears. Double grooved headfoil makes changing gears much faster, but is somewhat limited in practicality when short handed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B00B00 306 Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Yeah just trying to make it easier 2 handed and loose all the weight of the furler. We have found that we use the medium jib for pretty much everything, it has a reef point in it so covers 8-30kts easily. Thie reef is by far the best way to change gears, we could reef it and then unreef it in half the time and effort of anyone elses single jib change. The reef was pretty dodgy with the foil so the soft hanks will make it safe and easy. Code zero covers the 0-7kts range OK so the light jib doesnt get used all that much offshore and we have only needed the heavy jib twice in since the boat was launched. Doing headaails peels 2 handed is hardly faster than a quick bareheaded hank change anyway and way more chance of having a shocker. We are fitting the new forestay tonight. Yes it has alll been declared and the PHRF has gone up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philstar 61 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 when is your square top coming booboo? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 355 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 He's already gone bigger main, not square just more roach Square tend to be a problem shorthanded Now let's watch them test the new prod to death in the coastal, if they finish it will be good to go for the RNI I'm picking Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Always wondered how long the lady prod option would last booboo - new one looks awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkMT 68 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Square tend to be a problem shorthanded How so? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B00B00 306 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Major job to change the boat to take running top mast back stays, it involves adding 2 winches to start with. Probably close to a 5K excersize for us. Not really worth it, 5k is better spent on sails! Topmast runners also make manoeuvres a fair bit more complicated when short handed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MarkMT 68 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Ah, I see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 355 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 How so? How so?Ask the Revs crew from the RNZ and Truxton decided to ditch their Sq top for a pin head and won.Square tops with a full and fresh crew, reefing offshore can be tricky but with two tired crew that's when bat cars and sails start getting damaged and then jammed The cross over seems to be out 30' under this and you can get away with a sq top but over that and its all about systems and that's what BooBoo and Damon have been optimising. Shorthanded sailing is about keeping the boat at 90%+ of it optimum 100% of the time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,211 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 hmm, KM, that is over 100 demerit points (unless it was speed cameras?) and a 3 month suspension of licence IIRC? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Winter 42 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 What sorta bike you got KM? I miss my old bike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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