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Yeah, only looked on my phone last night - on the PC the misalignment of the new mount is obvious. What does the other side look like? It could be a whole engine alignment issue, not just one mount. Normally/often the type of mounts shown are slotted at one end? It is important to get a alignment right, or either the rubber, the vulcanizing, or the mount bolt will break over time.

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Yeah, only looked on my phone last night - on the PC the misalignment of the new mount is obvious. What does the other side look like? It could be a whole engine alignment issue, not just one mount. Normally/often the type of mounts shown are slotted at one end? It is important to get a alignment right, or either the rubber, the vulcanizing, or the mount bolt will break over time.

Yeah. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the other 3 - they are all pretty old and tired and who knows what state the rubber is in.

This one is slotted one end and holed at the other. Still a bit of wiggle room in the hole end too. 

 

I've just looked up the part number the yanmar man sold me and online it seems to be referred to as a 'Rear' engine mount.. I've stuck it in the front!  Think that matters? at $330odd each,  I was not in a hurry to do all four

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There is a bit of an issue only changing one (especially to the wrong one!!) as the flexibility of the old ones will be more than the new. It may well stuff the new one unfortunately.

 

The manufacturers don't make the mounts, just buy them add margin and resell. I got my current ones (for a Volvo Penta)

from;

 

Hancock Industrial Ltd

28 Hargreaves St, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011

P.O. Box 90602, Auckland Mail Centre 1142

NEW ZEALAND

Ph:64 9 373 2760    Fax: 64 9 377 2749   email: sales@hancock.net.nz

 

about 1/3 of the price from Volvo

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Yeah. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the other 3 - they are all pretty old and tired and who knows what state the rubber is in.

This one is slotted one end and holed at the other. Still a bit of wiggle room in the hole end too. 

 

I've just looked up the part number the yanmar man sold me and online it seems to be referred to as a 'Rear' engine mount.. I've stuck it in the front!  Think that matters? at $330odd each,  I was not in a hurry to do all four

I don't think that there is anything special about the Yanmar mounts, apart from the price...  You could consider replacing them all with something more reasnoable:

http://www.henleyspropellers.com/Products/EngineMounts.aspx

http://www.go2marine.com/category/13826/inboard-engine-mounts.html

 

Looking at your first photo of the failed mount it looks as though it has never been sitting correctly on the bearing - best fix that problem before simply repeating the exercise?

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Made up a new much longer carbon prod for the Sun Fast.


Prod is around 15mm think carbon with a foam core and a  full length horrozontal bulkhead, we got this engineered by a mate of ours and stuck to his layup plan. Didnt vacuum bag it as we dont have technoligy like that but Dave Faulkner who made up the original blank/mold shape for us vacumed bagged that (huge thanks to Dave for his help witht he project). We had to extend the hull flange attachment an extra 150mm past the hull resess to get enough shear strength and go from 3 to 5 bolts.


Decided to make up some low stretch bobstays as the 2 attachment points creates a headache where dynex is to variable in the its length (shrinks when not loaded and creeps when loaded) so was worried about point loading the prod on the unused bobstay. These are wound 4mm vectran core (8 laps @ 570kg break each) with a dyneema chafe cover over the top and onto ferruls. The bottom has both spliced onto 1 ferrul with the through hull attachment around the radius. 


Came out pretty tidy actually. Didnt have time to fair and paint it so its currently just a peel ply finish but will be fine for now and will have a go at finishing it off after coastal classic.


 


Also removed the furler and changed to a rod forestay with hanks. big night in the loft changing all the headsails over to hanks.


 


A few bigger sails to fit tomorrow and we should be good to go. Been a big few weeks.


 


 


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Also removed the furler and changed to a rod forestay with hanks. big night in the loft changing all the headsails over to hanks.

 

 

Whats your logic on going for the hanked headsails Booboo?

 

We ditched our furler years ago for hanked headsails, as its cluster proof for short handed sailing, but very slow to change gears.

Double grooved headfoil makes changing gears much faster, but is somewhat limited in practicality when short handed.

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Yeah just trying to make it easier 2 handed and loose all the weight of the furler.

We have found that we use the medium jib for pretty much everything, it has a reef point in it so covers 8-30kts easily. Thie reef is by far the best way to change gears, we could reef it and then unreef it in half the time and effort of anyone elses single jib change. The reef was pretty dodgy with the foil so the soft hanks will make it safe and easy. 

Code zero covers the 0-7kts range OK so the light jib doesnt get used all that much offshore and we have only needed the heavy jib twice in since the boat was launched.

Doing headaails peels 2 handed is hardly faster than a quick bareheaded hank change anyway and way more chance of having a shocker. 

We are fitting the new forestay tonight. 

 

Yes it has alll been declared and the PHRF has gone up.

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He's already gone bigger main, not square just more roach

Square tend to be a problem shorthanded

 

Now let's watch them test the new prod to death in the coastal, if they finish it will be good to go for the RNI I'm picking

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Major job to change the boat to take running top mast back stays, it involves adding 2 winches to start with. Probably close to a 5K excersize for us. Not really worth it, 5k is better spent on sails! 

Topmast runners also make manoeuvres a fair bit more complicated when short handed.

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How so?

How so?

Ask the Revs crew from the RNZ and Truxton decided to ditch their Sq top for a pin head and won.

Square tops with a full and fresh crew, reefing offshore can be tricky but with two tired crew that's when bat cars and sails start getting damaged and then jammed

The cross over seems to be out 30' under this and you can get away with a sq top but over that and its all about systems and that's what BooBoo and Damon have been optimising.

Shorthanded sailing is about keeping the boat at 90%+ of it optimum 100% of the time

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