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Boat Painting


shanson

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Where's the DIY talk group! :)

 

So we've hauled out spellbound and are starting to get ready to paint. We're most likely going to paint her with Yacht International Perfection two pot.

 

Spellbound is ply and has quite a few scrapes and dings back to (and sometimes into) the ply. My plan was to evadure the dings and fill them with a epoxy/glue power mix but is there anything better?

 

SHANE

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I'm using the same products on the same structure.

Am ready to paint now, but have been waiting for the weather to clear to get started painting the decks/cabin.

I've finished the cockpit as I had a cover for this that I could work under.

Totally stoked with the finish I got. I'm not looking for perfect finish, but got way better than I dared hope for.

Paint is easy to use, once I got my head around it.

I'm using a roller only, not tipping out with brush. I just apply with roller, then immediately using lighter pressure on roller, roll in 2 or three different directions to get rid of any imperfections. White paint though, so more forgiving than darker colours I hear.

 

I used the West system epoxy, and repaired any dings etc with glue powder as it is harder than the fairing powder. Just need to not slap it around too much as it is really tough to sand. Also the sooner you get it sanded the better. 2 weeks later it gets super hard!

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I used the West system epoxy, and repaired any dings etc with glue powder as it is harder than the fairing powder. Just need to not slap it around too much as it is really tough to sand. Also the sooner you get it sanded the better. 2 weeks later it gets super hard!

 

hey Slacko Thanks for the info.

 

I was thinking about using fairing powder as I did find the glue powder too hard to sand, I was going to repair each ding, sand it back and put a light coat of primer on each one, before starting the paint system over the top.

 

It's good to know you got a nice finish that easily, I'm not really after a fantastic finish just something that looks ok.

 

Cheers

 

SHANE

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when doing the old boat up and filling the dings and damage in the timber, for the small stuff I used a mix of fairing powder and glue powder in with the epoxy resin as suggest by the shop (wairau) adjusted the mix so I got something hard enough for the job and easier enough to sand easily, Did the same as mentioned with painting and used rollers only not tipping off and got a pretty good finish, mind you the boat is carvel constuction and built in the 50s

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It only took me 924 posts to work out how to attach a photo :?

Start drafting your 1000th now, Fusion keeps track of these matters and will ping you the second you cross the line. :wink:

 

Nice photo too.

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You should use glue powder (Fumed Silica) together with fairing powder. The Fumed Silica acts as a "thixotropic" substance in the mix. This stops slumping or sagging. If you don't use it, you can have a thick mix of Fairing compound and find that it runs out of vertical or overhead surface fills after awhile and usually just before it cures. That's because the mix is creating a bit of heat and becomes a little more fluid at that point in time, just before it hardens. Ruffly about 10% mix of silica powder will do the trick, but if you find large areas of fill are still slumping, you need to add more silica.

If you want real easy to sand, use the brown fairing powder, which is best for below waterline use on permanently moored craft. But it is expensive. The white fairing powder is a little harder to sand and should be used above water line only on permanently moored craft. But it is far cheaper.

I strongly recommend tipping off the surface with a lovely expensive brush. And do so in a vertical movement and don't brush it too much. This will leave you with a stunning gloss finish. Roller finish can leave little bubbles in the surface, however, I have used just a roller with good results also. So it is up to the standard of finish required. If you roll only, then the last Roll should be slow and try to keep the direction all the same.

And the big rule is, Keep a Wet edge at all times.

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I'm not really after a fantastic finish just something that looks ok.

 

Cheers

 

SHANE

 

 

Like the finish on a 930 in Bayswater. :wink: :lol: :lol:

 

He tried but wasn't good enough so going the boring way like 99.9% of the characterless harbour ;)

 

Yes that is my story and I do intend to try and remember it :lol: :lol:

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Thanks All for the advise, I've used the brown fairing power before and it's great, but it did slump a little, now know why!

 

The plan is to by decent rollers and a top of the line brush for tipping off, I've done a little painting so hoping that it comes out ok.

 

Anyone got tips for priming? do I need to follow wait times before coats?

 

Cheers

 

SHANE

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I'm not really after a fantastic finish just something that looks ok.

 

Cheers

 

SHANE

 

 

Like the finish on a 930 in Bayswater. :wink: :lol: :lol:

 

He tried but wasn't good enough so going the boring way like 99.9% of the characterless harbour ;)

 

Yes that is my story and I do intend to try and remember it :lol: :lol:

 

So KM you reckon I should go all out and paint it white? :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

SHANE

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Interesting to read other peoples experience with perfections paint. I have found the finish very poor, it has to be applied very thin as it run easily, I found roller and tip of with a brush best,

it looks good when applied but when it dries it has an uneven finish, very disappointing after spending over 80 hrs sanding filling sand then sanding some more and did I mention the sanding

Have done 5 coats and still not happy with the finish, I have had far better results with one pot paint that is a tenth of the price!

 

Don't know what I have done wrong :oops:

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Interesting to read other peoples experience with perfections paint. I have found the finish very poor, it has to be applied very thin as it run easily, I found roller and tip of with a brush best,

it looks good when applied but when it dries it has an uneven finish, very disappointing after spending over 80 hrs sanding filling sand then sanding some more and did I mention the sanding

Have done 5 coats and still not happy with the finish, I have had far better results with one pot paint that is a tenth of the price!

 

Don't know what I have done wrong :oops:

 

not the fist time I've heard that but I'd have no idea whats going on, did you use the right primer? Originally we were going to use the Altex 1 pot, but so many people told me that 2 pot was so easy! :crazy:

 

SHANE

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I've painted the topsides of my boat. Am reasonably pleased. Couple of tips. If it's a warm day add a little retarder thinners to give you a longer 'wet edge'. Cover at night, even when you thinks it's dry! Any moisture will kill the gloss. Many good coats are better than one heavy coat, which will sag. Sand between coats and use a tack cloth. Don't use an old rag soaked in thinners. Don't rush the job. It will take time. Work across the boat in sections. Learn as you go.

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